CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

[CLKWRK]

It is nice and quiet when cold, but loud when hot, the opposite happens with the aluminum pushrods.
I also noticed that it takes too long to warm up, I even had to add a block heater to it, I may also switch back to the type 1 oil cooler and get a 90deg thermostat.

[CLKWRK]

Yesterday I made some progress,
I have put a 90 deg thermostat on it and that seems to have done the trick, she warms up faster than my jetta. Aluminum pushrods are installed so I adjusted the valves to zero while fully warmed up and let it cool down, then I measured the valves and noted that they were about .004"
.006" was still a bit noisy when warm.



Protip: Aluminum beer can thickness is .004, since I diddn't have a feeler gage that thin, that is what I used

[CLKWRK]

Today I crawled under the ghia with my t3/t4 turbo and tried to figure out where to put it, and all I can say is that there is no room!

My T1 has the turbo nestled where the oil filter is (no room for pipes) and putting it up by cylinder #1 is a no go because of my heater boxes.
I am starting to think that the heater boxes will have to be super custom to make this work. I do have a set of F pipes, I wonder if I could run them then Y at the turbo, would that kill my ability to spool quickly? My favorite ti-y configuration is 1,3 into 4,2 not 1,2 into 3,4 (because of the firing order spacing the pulses out evenly)

I am not ready to cut the body or not run heater boxes, they must be there, the turbo must also be there ... somehow

[Wally]

Aluminum pushrods are installed so I adjusted the valves to zero while fully warmed up and let it cool down, then I measured the valves and noted that they were about .004"
.006" was still a bit noisy when warm.

Thats my experience too!

Nice car, nice install. Good luck with the turbo fitting, but not sure what you mean by 1,3 into 2,4/ Could you make a simple drawing with what you mean?

[Piledriver]

I think he just means he wants a proper tri-y with 180 degree pairing.

EMW HX replacement pipes and a Bursch 1.7L 914 exhaust form just such a device when bolted together.
Fits under a T4 converted Ghia too.

Sadly only available in 1.5", but for a turbo header the downside is arguable.
Something may need shortened a hair for ideal fit, but shorter is usually easier than longer.

A Ghia is blessed with a huge engine compartment compared to a T1, consider sticking the turbo in an insulated box (sealed from engine compartment air) on the R side where the air cleaners were (on some models)

The Burch collector points that way...

[CLKWRK]

Ok I have done lots of thinking about this and want to bounce the results off you guys:
I have been looking at 930 exhausts and thought "if this works for them then why not for me" so I have figured out that the turbo fits in one spot only that will give me the least amount of headaches with plumbing above deck. So once that location is figured out, the question is "how am I going to organize the exhaust pipes around existing stuff underneath".
I have two ideas based on the 930 header, I know that the firing order of a 930 is better suited for this type of setup and that pairing 1,3 and 2,4 will work better than 1,2 and 3,4 on a type 1 and 4. Will this be a deal breaker?

My next option is a 4 onto 1 "bundle of snakes" header, but I don't think the effort is worth it ... or is it? (remember its a TURBO)
I have read Maximum boost and my take is that 4-2-1 headers are ok for turbo as long as the pipe diameter increases as it nears the turbo but ID remains conservative.

Based on late 930 header, I feel that cylinder pairing is less important here, secondary pipes are not equal length. One i dea I had was to make the 1,2 side secondary pipe ID undersized (1 5/8" for both cylinders) to keep the flow up:

Based on early 930 header, 1,2 and 3,4 cylinder pairing will make flow irregular at the turbo flange with this setup, despite the fact that the secondary pipe lengths are close to being equal:

[Piledriver]

One of those things is not like the other.

930 is a /6 so the firing pulses are evenly spaced with a manifold-per-side setup.
The F-pipes setup doesn't work well on a ACVW even NA at all your heads will hate you.

Might not matter as much on a turbo, equal length tunes pipes don't matter much when you have a restriction at the end. Minimum bends seems to be the rule there, all the exhaust gasses want is out.

If you are going to pair them make a 1/3 and 2/4 pair and join them later.

A modified Bursch header is still ~ideal for the proposed purpose. 4-2-1, 1.5" primaries, 2" secondaries that could be extended to feed a pulse turbo correctly.

[CLKWRK]

The problem is the turbo NEEDS to be there, right in the way of any header I use, I will have to make a header that works like a Bursch header but it can't actually be that header.

Is this the header? it seems to pair the correct cylinders (1,3 2,4 )?
http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/im ... 137095.jpg


One thing in the back of my mind is that this thing needs heat, so I will be making some heater boxes for it once i figure out the pipe arrangement.

One more option that I did not mention was to chop up a CB hideaway header, that presents some other plumbing problems with the turbo drain and the oil filter, I may be able to resolve them.

[Piledriver]

Re; The Bursch link---The picture shows it upside down, and you'd be cutting the muffler off and relocating it (or using bigger)
If you cut it off at the collector and flange it like mine the ex goes to the R side.

That would work.
Under-the breastplate tin turbo is always a packaging and oil drainage headache.

Consider a hot box to house the turbo above deck over by the R fender. Keeps the hot air isolated, and solves the oil drainage issue, also plenty of room for a chargecooler.

A bursch would be a good solution if the turbo was in the engine compartment, or over the trans, or under the fender, or in hotbox, and allow heat. You could keep the nice HX setup you have intact on a mild turbo setup.

If you wanted to go nuts and feed a twin scroll pulse turbo, you could cut off the final collector and run the secondaries out to the turbo.

[NextGen]

Hi CLKWRKS, great work and happy to see what I found out, the 90c thermo is the way to go. It was driving me crazy why my car was running like crap, I went over everything. Till I figured it out. Big difference.

[NextGen]

Hi CLKWRKS, great work and happy to see what I found out, the 90c thermo is the way to go. It was driving me crazy why my car was running like crap, I went over everything. Till I figured it out. Big difference.

[CLKWRK]

I also have the type 4 oil cooler like you, I was thinking of blocking off some passes to make it act like a type 1 cooler and help it heat up faster, at least until the turbo is added.

I think I have figured out what I am going to do about the exhaust plumbing, i am gathering materials to get started.
Since I have a CB hideaway header on my other engine, I will just make one just like it but adapted for my type 4. The stock oil filter setup must go and it will work with my existing oil filter, thermostat, accusump and oil cooler setup. The passenger side modified 411 heater box/thermostat setup will stay the same, the driver side will get a new custom heater box.
Yesterday I fabbed up a slick adapter flange to feed oil to the stock oil filter flange via -10 fitting.

[Piledriver]

That oil filter is pretty easy to move...
You can also screw one on for a Rabbit/Cabby its much smaller diameter but otherwise compatible, have been running that size for years. Might provide some much needed room.

Just use a Mobil 1 or Purolator One filter. (K&Ns is basically same unit as Mobil1, off same line different paint)

[Udo Airbus]

This is what I made from scrap..

(still need to finish it and clean some old welds.. )

[CLKWRK]

Ok here is some progress,
I have been working on two things :
Gas heater install, its a late BN2 and it works very well ...Check out my rats nest

Turbo header

I am stuck for now, waiting for some tight 2.5" bends to come in for the outlet pipe, then I can start to figure out the primaries for the left side of the engine. I will also need to make a fancy custom heater box for that side.
The oil drain is too low and will be moved up 1/2", I think I will have to make a 1/4" aluminum skid plate to protect it.
It is a mashup of a t4 header and a t1 header