CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

[CLKWRK]

Hello everyone,
After reading Joes book cover to cover a few times, I have started on my upright conversion.
If anyone is interested, there are tons of reference pics of this build here:
http://s473.photobucket.com/albums/rr94 ... %20TypeIV/

My question is:

I followed the measurements in Joe's book for making an alt stand, but after mounting it on the engine, the bug belt did not seem to fit. I had to make the alt stand shorter.
As mentioned in the book the idea is to get it the same distance as a bug to share belt sizes, so I made my alt 9.5 inches center to center (as measured off my 1600dp) by shortening it.

Is there any down side to setting the alt a bit lower? I can see that it will be tight in the back where the flap linkage has to be modified above cylinder #1

If anyone is interested they can check out my progress here:
http://s473.photobucket.com/albums/rr94 ... %20TypeIV/
I welcome any advice as this is my first solo conversion

Bryan

[supaninja]

shroud clearance is going to be the only issue. you can always go to the FLAPs and get the next size long fan belt, that would be the easist fix.

[CLKWRK]

Do you mean shroud clearance to the top of the case? Right now the bottom of the shroud is touching the case

[supaninja]

Ya, shroud clearance.

I remember back when i converted to an alternator on my super beetle, I have to try different size belts till I found the perfect one, and it wasn't a 73 on type 1 one either.

[CLKWRK]

As I expected ... since my fan is sitting a little further back (closer to the middle) than Joes original design, my thermostat linkage is directly above #1 spark plug.
I figured that if I use an early bug flap assembly I can mod it to flip the linkage so there is no more linkage on that side of the fan.

[jinx]

good idea on the flaps, good thinking

[NextGen]

Hi CLKWRK,
Well you have two things going on. One is, the belt, the measurements I give are not expected to be exact. I got enough calls ( no emails back then ) explaining how difficult it is to make the stand, that no one up to that point could use a stock belt on a Cali Style. Which is not a big deal. Being close is what matters.. So you find a belt that fits ( easier then reworking the stand) and then buy one more as a spare.

The next issue is the fanhousing sitting to far off center. You seemed to figure yours out. But again, the stand is the heart of the conversion. That is why I recommend Nate's Reverse Gen/Alt Pulley idea as shown in the manual. It lines the pulleys up perfectly without a spacer and puts the fanhousing as close to the center of the engine as it will go. I never got over the fact the hole in the head was like it was made for the Thermostat Rod. Also extremely important is making sure the crank and gen/alt pulley line up perfectly or you will loose belts or break pulleys and belts.

The nice thing about the T-4 engine is it is very forgiving, that is the reason why the Cali Style is very popular besides being inexpensive. You don't have to be exact yet it works. Think of all the guys that have made a Cali Style and never have I heard of one fail. Some were riveted, bolted, welded. Some stands were made of Steel, others aluminum works of art. For some guys it was the first time they used a pop rivet gun yet all are happy when they got it running.

So far looks like you are doing a great job. Not a bad idea to keep a higher standard of build. Personally my engine's flaps linkage is just touching Number #1 Cylinder Spark Plug Rubber Seal, and it has been doing that the last 100k and 20 years. If you look close at some photos of my engine I made aluminum hold downs to keep the spark plug seals flat. That idea came from my linkage hitting the seal, so I did it for all 4 plugs.

[CLKWRK]

Thank you for your insight everyone.
Joe, I was wondering what those aluminum pieces on your plug cables were.
I finally did manage to get the pulleys at the stock distance, but the shroud sits low and the cylinder tin will need some divots to clear the flap linkages..
I flipped the pulley Nate style and added 1/8" spacer to get the shroud as far back as I could, my crank pulley is pretty much touching the og fan boss, which I will probably have to trim.
As I write this I realize that I havent checked the shroud/firewall clearance, I will have to do that tomorrow (fingers crossed)

Today I spent all day fussing with the doghouse oil cooler tin:

I was going to make a slimmer chute but got lazy and made a cutout for #3 plug wire, this seems like it would flow better anyways.
Also roughed in my crossover fuel line.

[NextGen]

Hi very nice sheet metal work, Did you make those cylinder covers or did you just strip them of paint? The Duct came out great.

[CLKWRK]

Thanks! Those are just bus cylinder covers that have been sandblasted, I do have some angled pieces that guide air to #3 and #2.

Originally this was going to be a turbo engine, but I am starting to think that it might be overkill, A NA setup will be much simpler and cleaner.

The engine will be 2100cc, Here is what I have collected so far:
- 2.0 crank & rods
- hyd case with sleves for T1 lifters
- scat C35 cam, udo T1 tool steel lifters
- AA 96mm pistons and stock vw cylinders bored out for the 96mm pistons
- bugpack HD single valve spring kit
- 1.7 rockers with Hyd spacers
- 200mm forged conversion flywheel
- kep 1700lb pp, bugpack 4 puck clutch
- 1800 bus heads 41x34
- electromotive tec 2 efi, with CB throttle bodies

Here I am test fitting stuff again, BTW the oil cooler has 1" clearance to the firewall:

If I went NA I could use this vintage speed exhaust:
http://store.vintagespeed.com.tw/index. ... &Itemid=80
Anyone have any experience with these exhaust Performance wise?
My questions are:
Would this combo work with a turbo bolted up to it, or am I better off NA?
I am running EFI with knock sensor.

On my T1 engines I have been running 9:1 compression ratio with 15lbs of boost with no ping, but that was with modified superflo heads that had tons of squish and tiny deck height. I know that type 4 engines are a different animal.
What compression ratio is recomended if I went turbo?

[BugUgly]

Out of curiosity, what's this interesting looking tube?

[CLKWRK]

It is part of the fuel system, it connects both fuel rails.


Today I was working on the oil filler/dipstick tube and I cant seem to figure something out ...
What is the correct min/max oil level for a type 4?
I am looking at this from a visual point of view, as in should the camshaft lobes touch the top of the oil level?

Maybe thats too high? I checked some type 1 cases and their max level is 1/2" below the cam bore
_____________________________
EDIT: I found some good info on this here:
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=133824
Turns out the min/max oil level on a 914 is in the same place as a T1, however the 411 seems to have a lower min/max oil level

[CLKWRK]

Ok here is what I got now for the dipstick setup, min/max is outlined in blue marker (same as T1, 1/2" below cam bore):

work in progress, it still needs to be welded to the flange.
I can change the dipstick markings if needed, but I can see that if the level was any higher then windage would be a problem and oil would start pouring into the heads via pushrod tubes on corners.
The dipstick is inside the filler tube

[supaninja]

Dude its looking awesome, I like the attention to detail on everything. Seeing your sig reminds me that I need to update my build thread over on gl.net.

[CLKWRK]

thanks for the motivation

I had a look at the under cylinder area today.

I have read that the T1 upright tins are the right ones to use in this case, but I think that the upper part of the T4 tins are unique to the T4's cylinder head design and are supposed to send cooling air to the exhaust port area.
T1 upper cylinder covers have an air deflector between the intake castings that sends the air shooting out of the fan shroud to the sides where the exhaust ports are, this would be the T4 equivalent of that only its beneath the head, instead of the top.

I installed the T1 tins, which hug the cylinders much better than the T4 ones, this provides back pressure and forces high pressure air through the barrel fins. As an added bonus the tight fit increases the pressure of the upper part of the cylinder covers and forces more air around the sides and through the aluminum cylinder head, which is much better at shedding heat than the cast iron cylinders.
Has anyone tried this "Hybrid" under tin arrangement?