CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

[dave t]

Are you using a CAM sync for the ignition?

[CLKWRK]

I am only using the crank trigger for my electromotive tec3 in phased mode, the thing that looks like a cam sync is actually my knock sensor.
Initially I had some problems with electrical noise messing up my crank trigger signal and I was considering using a cam sync, but after improving the grounds to the starter the problem seems to be resolved

[dave t]

Where did you hide the trigger wheel?

[Piledriver]

Backside of pulley down and to left?
Might be one of Marios T4 trigger setups, they fit/work nice as you see or with stock cooling..

[CLKWRK]

I used one of Mario's trigger wheels and machined a groove on the backside of my pulley to center it, then I made a custom bracket to fit one of Mario's sensors to work with the T4 upright set up. The T4 brackets that Mario has are nice but diddn't work with my tin

http://www.thedubshop.net/products-c17av

[CLKWRK]

Today i found a Bluetooth 12v control relay with temp sensor, that means you can control you vintage bn2 with your smartphone and check the cabin temp with your smartphone. The relay will turn on or off the bn2 at a set temp threshold

I found this awesome controller on ebay:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVJF5KjVFds

ebay add:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Channel-USB-W ... 5ibZGcFUVg

only thing its missing is a timer

[Wally]

here is an update, first time ever I drove my ghia all summer, no issues at all ... lots of burnouts and I drove it hard. She is still good, not even a drip of oil, ..

How cool is that!

[CLKWRK]

I did have to get a new set of tires

[Gnasha]

Today I capped off the ends of my shortened heater boxes:

Notice that the flange is welded on upside down, this is so the Vintagespeed muffler clears the ghia rear valance


Next I need to add the intake pipes

every time i read this it inspires me. The reasons you modified the heater boxes was to accomadate the muffler position? I assume they are 411 412 heater boxes, if the original T2 heater boxes were fitted to the KG would they have space restraints at the flywheel end as well as muffler position issues. We need lots of heat in the UK

[CLKWRK]

Full size heater boxes will fit on a ghia but the header and muffler will stick out of the back more than stock. I shortened my 411 boxes to make the muffler look stock and not stick out of the back of the car. With full size heavyweight bus heater boxes you will get tons of heat but they will limit you engine performance as they are a bit restrictive.
Piledriver mentioned that it has been done before and a Bursch 914 header was used, I have seen pictures of it but I can't seem to find them on the internet, it was a redish colored ghia.

On the flywheel side there was no need to modify the heater box, you only need to make a special pipe to hold the flapper boxes (see pg 6 of this thread) that plug into the stock ghia heater bellows that go into the body.

[Gnasha]

Thank you once again for sharing
your invaluable experience and knowledge.
It seems all my doubts as far as "will it fit"
have been answered. There's a chap holding a
complete code CJ engine for me while I satisfied some concerns. No doubt there will be numerous questions as I open it up. Thanks again.

[Piledriver]

mrragpicker is the user with the full bus HX and Bursch in his Ghia.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 1&t=120875
The pics are all there, linked from photobucket.

Also note a "Sebring" 914 exhaust is an inexpensive 4>1 with a centered rear-aimed 3 bolt flange that would fit like a std T1 header on HX, with the same sort of muffler setup.

A Bursch is a well made exhaust that will last for many, many years.
I suspect it would make for a decent turbo exhaust as well...

Peer into the linked pics address for his full photobucket spread.

[Gnasha]

mrragpicker is the user with the full bus HX and Bursch in his Ghia.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 1&t=120875
The pics are all there, linked from photobucket.

Also note a "Sebring" 914 exhaust is an inexpensive 4>1 with a centered rear-aimed 3 bolt flange that would fit like a std T1 header on HX, with the same sort of muffler setup.

A Bursch is a well made exhaust that will last for many, many years.
I suspect it would make for a decent turbo exhaust as well...

Peer into the linked pics address for his full photobucket spread.

many thanks for your valuable contribution, I'm now destined at the age of 60 to purchase my dream Type 4 engine overhaul it and fit it to my KG, Thanks to both you and CLKWRKS advice,

[CLKWRK]

Ok time for a type 4 update ...

I just upgraded the turbo in my 2L T4 to a Garrett GT2680RS (aka "the Disco Potato"), Then I pulled out the 15cc dished bus pistons and replaced with US spec 914 2.0L 7cc dished pistons. This piston swap will raise my cr from 7.5:1 to 8.2:1, I am using 1.8L bus heads and a web 86a cam that will like the new cr better. It was hard to find these pistons, people usually remove them in favor of the euro flat tops, they are good to have in my application, so if anyone has a set they want to unload please PM me (15cc on the right, 7 on the left, notice the narower quench area on the 7cc crown)


This setup is what I will probably be putting on the dyno and be rolling with for most of this season, however ...

I sort of have another T4 project (75x103 2.5L) in the works, the story about this one is that Petevw picked it up at Buggy Builders in MI a few years ago as a basket case, he tried to get it built a couple of times but they fell through, so I bought it off him.
It had dual springs, a pitted cam and cracked cylinder with a deck height of 1.6mm.

I think there were two problems with this engine, too much spring pressure for the street and too much deck height/timing advance causing detonation which aggravated the ultra thin cylinder walls (about the same as the early 92mm thin wall cylinders of yore)

To remedy these things I am going with single beehive springs, a gentler cam (web 86a, 112LC) new forged JE pistons & AA iron cyls that are 2mm thicker. The deck will be set at 1mm which should give me a cr of approximately 9:1 and there may be some boost in the future


Here is a parting shot of the 2.5L short block on the stand Oetlinger 75mm crank in there with 5.7 Carrillo rods 55mm Journals. Interesting thing about this pic is that I don't use the T4 oil filter setup, I full flow it so I can use an Accusump, also I hack off some of the og pancake shroud mount bosses to fit my upright setup. You can tell its a late bus hydro case because you can see a squareish raised casting next to the oil press relief valve, I swapped out the short oil pickup tube that comes with this type of case for the early long one, its a mod that fixes a design flaw that these cases have

[H2OSB]

A Web 86a? Nice!