What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Speaking of distributors; would a standard 009 work satisfactory? (Weber 40 IDF, 1911cc, Webcam 86A).
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
If the IDF's have a fitting at the base near the butterflys for vacuum advance I'd run the standard type 4 distributor . A 009 will work ,it's just not ideal .
No matter where you go , there you are !
- oprn
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Your engine build is nearly identical to mine, I started mine a little over a year ago with the goal to have it running last summer but like you life had other plans. I am back on it again now pushing to get it running this spring.
I started with a '74 1700 Bus engine that already had 96mm cylinders but a cracked head and worn out cam. I went with the Web 86 and a set of rebuilt Bus 1700 heads that have the chambers opened up some. The C/R will be lower than yours, I will be in the 8.4 range. A set of 40 Webers will be on it and I will be re-using the stock distributor to take advantage of the benefits of vacuum advance. The exhaust is a bit of a mystery yet though!
I too am shooting for a good street runner in the 100 hp range. I am very interested to hear how yours turns out.
I started with a '74 1700 Bus engine that already had 96mm cylinders but a cracked head and worn out cam. I went with the Web 86 and a set of rebuilt Bus 1700 heads that have the chambers opened up some. The C/R will be lower than yours, I will be in the 8.4 range. A set of 40 Webers will be on it and I will be re-using the stock distributor to take advantage of the benefits of vacuum advance. The exhaust is a bit of a mystery yet though!
I too am shooting for a good street runner in the 100 hp range. I am very interested to hear how yours turns out.
- sideshow
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Not all IDF's have that port, FWIW having actually done that it works fine enough I never felt the need to make a MAP setup for that.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
I've just bought an original 914 distributor, and I'll be adding a Petronix unit to it. My carbs have a vacuum take-off. Is it sufficient to use it just from one carb, or do I hook up both with a T-joint?
The plan is to fire it up this spring still need to sort out some parts.
The plan is to fire it up this spring still need to sort out some parts.
- oprn
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
My understanding is that with them teed together the signal will not necessarily be higher in value but smoother with less pulsation. I will be trying mine both ways to see.
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Use 1 port preferably the one closest to the distributor #4. Add in an anti pulse valve.
- Piledriver
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
IIRC, all Webers have vacuum ports with screw plugs, these are manifold vacuum, primary use was for carb synchronization with mercury manometers like a bike, and can actually be used if fed through a valve that cuts it off at idle.
Fords had several valve configurations that did this trick over the decades, can also be done with a simple solenoid/switch setup.
(magnet on throttle cable/arm triggering a hall or reed switch as examples)
The "right" signal is ported manifold vacuum, from drillings that open just above the rising edge of a closed throttle butterfly.
I added a set to my old italian idfs, used a cheap $1 plastic fuel filter as a damper/accumulator.
pulsation may eventually beat the advance setup to death (if connected directly to only one bore etc)
Fords had several valve configurations that did this trick over the decades, can also be done with a simple solenoid/switch setup.
(magnet on throttle cable/arm triggering a hall or reed switch as examples)
The "right" signal is ported manifold vacuum, from drillings that open just above the rising edge of a closed throttle butterfly.
I added a set to my old italian idfs, used a cheap $1 plastic fuel filter as a damper/accumulator.
pulsation may eventually beat the advance setup to death (if connected directly to only one bore etc)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Hmmm, thanks. I'll look into this. I'm still progressing slowly, not a lot of time to spend in the garage, and still working on building the car (Speedster replica). A month ago I took the engine off the engine stand, and tried to shim the crankshaft. I was not able to get consistent readings, which was very frustrating. So I haven't touched the engine ever since, trying to build up confidence, clear my head, and feel like giving it another try.
Any suggestions to do this? Is pulling and pushing on the pulley sufficient to get the total play?
Any suggestions to do this? Is pulling and pushing on the pulley sufficient to get the total play?
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Deleted double post
Last edited by Mave on Mon Oct 22, 2018 10:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Piledriver
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Do you have the distributor/drive in?
If so, remove it and carefully inspect the brass drive gear, that's how folks destroy those brass gears on the crank...
The distributor drive should be the first thing out of the engine, last thing in, and always removed before pulling the flywheel.
front seal out or at least the fan drive hub off so no seal drag.
Its ok to pry on the flywheel a little with a prybar.
I welded a rocker arm to my flywheel lock and use feeler gauges, use adjuster screw/lock to zero, dead consistent.
If so, remove it and carefully inspect the brass drive gear, that's how folks destroy those brass gears on the crank...
The distributor drive should be the first thing out of the engine, last thing in, and always removed before pulling the flywheel.
front seal out or at least the fan drive hub off so no seal drag.
Its ok to pry on the flywheel a little with a prybar.
I welded a rocker arm to my flywheel lock and use feeler gauges, use adjuster screw/lock to zero, dead consistent.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Ok, so yesterday I played around with new shims, and got consistent readings. Exchanging shims (different thicknesses) provided the expected different measurements, which restored my confidence. So finally I settled on the combination which gave me 0.10 mm. (Using 2 bolts in the flywheel torqued to 40 lb/ft). So today I wanted to install the seal, o-ring, pilot bearing and felt seal permanently. After torqueing the 5 bolts to 40 lb/ft I decided to check the freeplay. It is now at 0.19 mm?! Could it be that I need to tap the seal further in the housing?
- Clatter
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
There are two different thicknesses of main seal depending upon the year.
If your case is supposed to have the thin seal and you have the thick, it could well be your issue.
Check to make sure you have the right one..
If your case is supposed to have the thin seal and you have the thick, it could well be your issue.
Check to make sure you have the right one..
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
- Piledriver
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Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Note the free play measurement is meant to be taken with no seal, doing it fully assembled can provide slightly different readings.
Just not usually that different... so Clatter may be onto something.
Just not usually that different... so Clatter may be onto something.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Joined: Thu Jul 18, 2013 11:25 am
Re: What to do with 1.7 Type 4 in 356 Speedster?
Oh wow, Googling on “porsche 914 flywheel seal” opens up a complete can of worms! I just checked my seal, I can't trace back where I bought it from (I think I bought it about 4 years ago). It is marked “Germany”, so I assume it's a Victor Reinz part. Should I just order the SABO one that a lot of people are talking about?
I removed and mounted the flywheel twice tonight, and the freeplay is consistent at 0.18-0.19 mm. The good thing is that I'm getting consistent results. But of course I'm expecting different readings.
I will probably remove the seal (which will destroy it), and recheck the freeplay without the seal. If it is consistent at 0.10 mm I will install the new seal, mount flywheel, and not be tempted to measure the freeplay anymore.
Does that sound like a plan?!
I'd like to move forward to the first start......it's been a project for too long.
I removed and mounted the flywheel twice tonight, and the freeplay is consistent at 0.18-0.19 mm. The good thing is that I'm getting consistent results. But of course I'm expecting different readings.
I will probably remove the seal (which will destroy it), and recheck the freeplay without the seal. If it is consistent at 0.10 mm I will install the new seal, mount flywheel, and not be tempted to measure the freeplay anymore.
Does that sound like a plan?!
I'd like to move forward to the first start......it's been a project for too long.