2365 Porsche Type IV Edit now 2.599cc edit again now 2650cc

[falcor]

On a 914 shouldnt that bearing that sits in the crank in the picture sit in the flywheel?

[Piledriver]

On a 914 shouldn't that bearing that sits in the crank in the picture sit in the flywheel?

It can, but a late 002 or 091 (any Bay Bus with a T4) std input shaft its the right depth for the bearing in the crank... and likely bottom out in the flywheel location.
(it wasn't in a 914 last, or at least I don't think so)

If it was in a T1 trans, the flywheel location is required as well due to the short input shaft, also like the 914s 901 trans.

[falcor]

There, I learned something new. Thanks Pile.

[Glasser]

It was a T1 trans, It was in a drag beetle, I know the car.

Doesn't look like much room for a bearing in the flywheel though.





Such a thing as a conversion flywheel???

[Type 4 Unleashed]

There's the material from the crank, so there were no flywheel shims installed and the end play was never set so there was between .035" to .042" of end play so the crank was hammering back & forth, and no locking plate was used. The locking plate actually protects the crank from the flywheel bolts, with out the locking plate over several times the serrated heads will cut groves in the flywheel then come to a point they will no longer lock, so they will lock on the flywheel until the grooves get to deep.

Over the years, I have come across many cranks where the plate was never replaced, so I would have the grooves machined out then use a locking plate. Here's some trivia, you also have to have the bolt surfaced machined when you've had the flywheel surfaced, you'll find that the clutch disc will now hit the flywheel bolts, and what most people do is grind the head down on the flywheel bolts to clear the clutch disc, which become a problem when you try removing the bolts or torqueing them down since there is less nut area for the socket to hold on to.

[Piledriver]

If it had a T1 trans it requires the bearing in the flywheel.
It will be partially in the crank.
Lettering on the bearing goes OUT.

If not a 914 or "conversion" flywheel the hole will need reamed to size.

[Glasser]

Thx all for the info!!!

[Glasser]

Decided to stroke the Porsche as well. Will end up with a 2.599cc. Hopefully crating all up soon and sending south. Need this Canadian dollar to smarten up soon......

[Piledriver]

Gonna need big heads to feed that ...

I bet that fellow that had it on a T1 trans had major issues shifting... Doesn't look set up for the bearing..
Just use the locking plate in future.

[Glasser]

Yes things were done incorrectly for sure. Heads are getting a major overhaul. Bigger valves, porting etc. I'm getting a turn key done. I just don't want to risk messing anything up.

[Glasser]

I'm also getting them to send me a transmission as well. They will set me up with the proper clutch and flywheel etc. Going with a 3:88 R&P. Stock 1,2,3 and 4th with a 26" tall tire.

[Piledriver]

Tall tire... Stock gearing?
A t1 trans that can last with 200++ HP drag launches gets very expensive quick, if it exists at all.

The guys running drag cars count their launches and replace the R&P (and go through the rest of the trans) every (X) runs.
(value of X depends on car/driver/track/tires/traction and trans parts used, the objective is to swap it before it breaks)

[Glasser]

Builder is saying I'll have gads or torque and wont be an issue.(Keep in mind as well 1400 lbs car) He's going to dyno the motor. It will be conservatively built with 8:1 compression and have somewhere in the neighborhood of 175Hp, Torque is going to be up there as well.If I go the big cam he has he said it would be in to 200 range. I want it streetable though.
Was told by Rancho I should be putting a $3500 trans in it as they said all their customers drive like idiots LMAO.
Not racing it. It's a 1400 Lbs street toy. Will have to treat the trans nice if I want it to last. (No neutral drops or sidestepping).Once the clutch is out should be fine. I'm going with a ProStreet by Rancho. Super diff, welded 3rd and 4th, HD side plate all the regular goodies.

[Piledriver]

8:1 static CR will work great with a near-stock cam.
Won't have much of an RPM range.

Google a bit for "dynamic compression ratio" before picking a CR and cam etc, also "squish area".
Its going to be harder to get a low CR with a big engine, looking at custom dished pistons.
If the term "semi-hemi cut" comes up find another engine builder.
This is not a T1, and that's long disproved junk science anyway.

Avoid 2318 alloy pistons if you want them to last more than a few thousand miles.
Great for drag racing and if they get replaced regularly... thats about it.

You can get other alloys for forged pistons that wear ~like stock, like 4032.
Everyone makes them.
Hypereutetics will also work fine on a big, not high revving and not too highly tweaked motor.

You also need to consider LN Engineering Nickies or such if you don't like replacing the pistons and cylinders every 20K miles. The EMW iron jugs are supposedly much better than they used to be tho.

[Glasser]

I'm using the pistons I already have unless they find something wrong with them.

They are essentially a flat top with valve clearance notches.
Builder does his own cam grinds. Wont be a stock cam but somewhere in the middle.

I'm not cutting any corners with this build. My parameters were: Has to last, run on pump gas, use as many of the parts I already have (Will all be inspected before use). I was thinking the 120HP range, He said we can get way more out of this build. After we had a LONG discussion and we took into consideration lots: driving style, weight of the car, miles driven a year and came up with a plan. Although I'll never be able to lug this motor hard enough being it's so light we are adding a 5th head stud to keep those bug jugs sealed properly. Heads are getting a complete and thorough work over, new valves and seats, port work and chamber work.