Seeking advice for my engine build.

[Piledriver]

Let me put it this way, what do you think a .040" or even a .035" step cut in the heads will do, I hope you don't think it will make them stronger ?

Here's a link to a set I bought that had a step already cut, but the step was cut to reduce the CR since the heads were intended for a Turbo build. Now I am stuck with the step, and very reluctant to remove it. And wish it hadn't been cut.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=121608

I ran into the same issue, but if you can PLAN the build using the step AS deck, its no huge issue.
It does very much suck to be surprised by it when you pull the heads out of the box.

That's the only reason I'm running .055" deck, the bottom end was done, and I didn't want ~.035 deck bad enough or need the CR bump to have the jugs cut or case decked, the current cam works OK with the resulting CR.
With no step or shims I'm at .020", +.035" step cut.

The "turbo" heads I acquired were step cut AND semi-Hemi cut, but I solved that with some custom JEs with a matching dome, so i actually have more squish area than I would with flat tops, and a very compact chamber space. The motor those go on will not be high boost, I have a better plan for that. ..

[vwbaker83]

I know I changed back to the smaller engine size, and I have a severe problem with settling on something. But I do appreciate all the advice you guys have given me. I do plan and have always planned on getting the heads rebuilt with new guides, valve seats, springs, retainers, valves... getting the plugs put in that you mentioned to fill the holes by the exhaust port.

[Piledriver]

If you really want to run a high-rpm cam, the best way to get more compression is stroking it.
Pop-up pistons, fiddling with the deck cuts all have issues.
Its also going to need dual valve springs and big valves etc to be effective. $$$
The 2L Porsche chamber size works well with a 2270 and a decent cam.

On a 2056, you can probably use a tighter lobe center, this increases the DCR, you can probably get away with less than 9:1 with a tight deck for the cam you mentioned.... It won't pull as high as a std LC but the std LC for a 163/86b is 104 degrees anyway.
A custom cam like a Web 119/163 is also an option, less cam needs less compression.
Everything is a compromise.

[Clatter]

Yup,

One thing leads to another..

Like with the Type 1, you see 1776 and 2275 builds a lot,
You will see 2056 and 2270 with the type 4.

They just make the most sense because of the different parameters involved.

Too bad the links are broken,
The man himself makes different versions of the 2270..
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.php/vw-type-1

The biggest difference will be the exhaust,
Followed by headwork, CR, Cam..

I'll kind of stick by my statement of 'build it around the exhaust'.
What you end up with for primary tube diameter will determine what power level you build for.

In my little world, seems that a 2056 is matched with heater boxes and header..
Building a motor around a proper exhaust kind of pushes the 'worth building it that way' scale up towards 2270.

Not to say that there aren't some high-winding 2056s out there with big exhausts and long-duration cams, etc.

[vwbaker83]

Got the heads back from cleaners and it has been revealed that there are some cracks around the plugs. Not too bad seemingly but I'll post pics tonight after work. Otherwise they look great.

[vwbaker83]

Called DPR and the cost of counterweighting and stroking the one I have is a little less than buying one outright from them. It's 450. Hmmm... May have to make a "compromise" and go the stroker route after all. That or decide whether I would be happy with making less power than anticipated with the 2056... With a milder cam, stock valve sizes how much could I squeeze from a 2056 with a decent exhaust?

[Piledriver]

Called DPR and the cost of counterweighting and stroking the one I have is a little less than buying one outright from them. It's 450. Hmmm... May have to make a "compromise" and go the stroker route after all. That or decide whether I would be happy with making less power than anticipated with the 2056... With a milder cam, stock valve sizes how much could I squeeze from a 2056 with a decent exhaust?

130ish, but you could use stockish guts.
Web 73 or 86 would make for a nice daily driver, maybe 86A could get you there.

The 2L heads are IMHO worth putting 2270ccs under, given the budget.
Far easier to get a good, larger, hipo combo right with the larger chambers and better flowing heads.
10:1 and an 163/86B or 86B/86C on 104 or so... Should rock pretty well with an A1 header.
You will need a better clutch, and should consider a trans upgrade or swapping in a 901, and almost certainly at least upgrade to discs and a sticky tire setup.
A 901 can swallow a 228mm clutch no issues.

Aircooled.net is in SLC and may stock DPR cranks...

[vwbaker83]

Disc brakes are on already as well as a larger bore master cylinder. Too bad the side shift 914 transaxle wont work as I have that...

[Piledriver]

There was a nice thread on cable shifters not long ago, its quite doable.
Looking hard at it myself.

[vwbaker83]

There was a nice thread on cable shifters not long ago, its quite doable.
Looking hard at it myself.

I'll check it out then, I'm guessing that the 914's transaxle can handle a bit of power then?

[vwbaker83]

Here's a good pic of a chamber in the 914 heads. The crack around the plug hole is about the same as it is on the other chambers that have them. Only one didn't have any.

[Piledriver]

That's going to cost a bit to fix.
Cracks also hide under the ex seats.

[vwbaker83]

Gahh! Will the plug hole welding and re-tapping solve this issue? And if there are cracks under the seats, will they be able to be welded?

[Piledriver]

Gahh! Will the plug hole welding and re-tapping solve this issue? And if there are cracks under the seats, will they be able to be welded?

If it is only cracked at the plugs, having someone who does T4 heads can do a reliable fix.
You will also have to replace all the guides and valve seats, as they have to come out for the welding and re-heat treat, so you might as well go 44x38 and ported, and dual springs. (Valves and seats cost the same ~regardless of size)

Having them rewelded and set up with 12mm plugs generally solves that issue.

You cant see under the seats until they are pulled, and welding etc costs $$$/hour, so they can get past the point of economical repair.
The cracks have to be chased down and killed with a carbide burr, and the resulting trenches all have to be slowly, carefully TIG welded back in by an absolute expert welder who does repair welding on aluminum heads all the time. The heads will have to make many trips in/out a preheat oven while this welding process goes on...


As Len Hoffman won't "do" anything but new castings anymore (as a service to you and him, prevents the surprise "GAHH!) ,
that leaves Headflow Masters and EMW as the two places I know of that know what they are doing repairing T4 heads. I'm not sure if EMW ports heads, thinking not, but check, even if they can just cut the bowl, that helps.

[vwbaker83]

I'll just have to see how the heads turn out... Still gonna have them repaired. The 914 transaxle seems fine, it shifted through all the gears at least. Maybe I'll just freshen it up with new seals. I do want to use it, and I looked at a cable shifter. http://www.cableshift.com/914/914%20page.html I have not found any other cable shifters or a DIY article yet. Also read a article about putting a 901 transaxle in the Beetle on ACN and seems I can apply some of the lessons to the 914 trans.