Severe Oil Leak

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RabMaf
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Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:56 am

Severe Oil Leak

Post by RabMaf »

Hello,

While cranking my Bus to start i hear a severe oil leak coming out in pressure from Oil Filter.

I turned off the engine , removed and replaced the filter Hengst H10W05, added oil , Problem Solved !

But the problem is that every now and then, the same thing is happening, sometimes twice in a week, some other times once in 2 month.

I tried all types of filters, Same Result.

I noticed that its happening more when i rarely drive the car.

the Oil filter mount looks fine to me, Screw is alright , how come the filter will be Ok for a month and then bamm ?

Any Suggestions ?

1978 VW Westfalia 2.0L Type 4 Engine , 091 trany,
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Piledriver
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Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by Piledriver »

What oil?

Blowing filters on startup with a big pump and thick oil is too common.

Unless you have a racing engine (with large clearances) thick oil and a "heavy duty" pump are not a feature.
I use Shell Rotella T6 5W40 in everything, but can run thinner in winter.

The summers get toasty in Dallas.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
RabMaf
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Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:56 am

Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by RabMaf »

20W50

My engine is Stock 2000CC, with Dual Weber 44's .
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Marc
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Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by Marc »

The return drilling where oil returns to the sump is too small to handle 20W50 in cool/cold weather - although I've never seen it cause a filter to blow while cranking, it's common anytime a cold engine is revved with thick oil in it - so first thing I'd do is switch to 10W-40 to see if that solves it. Any chance that someone may have fit a stiffer-than-stock spring in the relief or control valves in the case?

In a way it's good that the filter's leaking; if it held, the excess pressure would ruin your oil cooler (either by making it leak, or by "ballooning" the passages so airflow through it is restricted.
RabMaf
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Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:56 am

Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by RabMaf »

Do you know what length the spring should be ? 59mm or 55mm ?

apparently the Valve is stuck i am trying to remove it now.
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Marc
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Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by Marc »

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Piledriver
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Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by Piledriver »

Where are you, what's the temperature when this happens?
If daytime temps are under ~100F 20W-50 is usually too thick.

A stuck relief piston can cause this by itself.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
RabMaf
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:56 am

Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by RabMaf »

I am in Beirut , Lebanon , Morning temperature was around 65F
relief Valve was jammed i just used a 12mm tap to remove it !
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Piledriver
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Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by Piledriver »

Polish the piston up good with crocus cloth and you are likely fixed.
Make very sure there is no gunk in the bore: Some carb cleaner may help remove stubborn varnish buildup.
I'd still consider at a good quality 5W-40 or 10W-40 oil, unless the engine is very worn.
5w>10W-50 oils exist.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
RabMaf
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2016 12:56 am

Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by RabMaf »

it happens that i work in oils & lubricants

10W40 is Semi-Synthetic and
5W-40 is Fully-Synthetic

i know that Type 4 engines run best on Mineral oils no ?
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Piledriver
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Re: Severe Oil Leak

Post by Piledriver »

RabMaf wrote:it happens that i work in oils & lubricants

10W40 is Semi-Synthetic and
5W-40 is Fully-Synthetic

i know that Type 4 engines run best on Mineral oils no ?
No.
Old wives tale.

Do make sure the oils you choose are suitable for flat tappet lifters.
That usually means zinc>1200.ppm (high zddp)

On a stock engine `~1000ppm might do, but most oils today are ~800ppm zinc.
The latter include Castrol GTX which became 800ppm zinc junk grade oil here in the US about 10 years ago.
Used to be >1400 ppm zinc, although they always used garbage grade VI additives and its usually ~SAE25 after 1000 miles in an aircooled engine.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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