Bills 2.5-turbo build/machined parts pics

[Bills914-4]

Hello ,
I thought I would share some pics of some machine work I've been doing for a new build I've
been planning & collecting parts for , It's going to be a 2.5t

1700 heads with 42 x 36 valves , grinding on chambers got me 61cc

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pistons have a .300 crown ,which will allow .200 protrusion out of cylinder & into head chamber bore

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pistons have a 9cc dish

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2.5t
80 x 100
5.325 h-beams
61cc heads - 9cc pistons - .038 deck = 9.2cr
pauter cam K8O3 on 110* LC, in. 288* adv. /[email protected] x .384 lobe lift , ex.296* adv. /[email protected] x .398 lobe lift
type 4 rockers 1.3 with porsche adj.
raceware long studs
1/2 case bolts
KEP 228mm twin disc clutch & flywheel

Thank you Bill D.

[Type 4 Unleashed]

I like the flame rings. Wonder what the pistons are from with what looks like quite an offset ?

I, don't like the raceware long studs, because of having the extra cost to insert the case, and clearance issues .

And I don't like having to drill the case for the 1/2" case bolts. I like to use type 1 head studs and just nut both ends, and the case doesn't have to be drilled .

[Clatter]

YEAH!

What is the material for the flame rings?

Those are EMW iron jugs?

[raygreenwood]

Nice!
Usually those "flame rings"...are inconel...and many of them are filled with gas. Ray

[Bills914-4]

I like the flame rings. Wonder what the pistons are from with what looks like quite an offset ?

I, don't like the raceware long studs, because of having the extra cost to insert the case, and clearance issues .

And I don't like having to drill the case for the 1/2" case bolts. I like to use type 1 head studs and just nut both ends, and the case doesn't have to be drilled .

There was no extra cost installing the inserts , the inserts have a .485 dia. head ring o them , so I used a 1/2 4flute ball mill
in my slowmo drill & spot faced the tapped hole & thread chased it with a bottom tap ,& then checked that they bottomed
below the case surface , I used a simple tool I made with a bolt & nut turned in a lathe ,( inserts are m12 x 1.5 o.d. / m10 x 1.5 i.d. ) to install inserts ,checked depth (below surface) then loctited (per instructions) , then used the tool they give in the kit
to lock (spread bottom of insert) in case .

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the cylinders are nickies from LN engineering I won in a car event raffle , it was NOT easy making that first cut on them ,
the rings are made from 304 ss , inconel is for extreme boost (withstands alot more heat), besides more dificult to machine ,
I tried to find GAS filled sealing rings but nobody has them on the shelf ( I searched & searched) ,so I desided to make 304 ss,
the rings are .078 wide .100 high ,square bottom head groove & radius on the cylinder groove ,
the pistons are J.E. , special order from LN engineering ,they have a 1.370 CH & .300 crown thickness (for dish purpose & extending out the top of cylinders into head bore/chamber . thanks for looking Bill D.

[wreck]

Jacob at "Get Back on Track " in Europe gets Gas rings made for his big bore Deutz based engines . He has a good FaceBook page with heaps of pictures of engines he builds . I was going to get some from him if my copper gaskets did not seal . (so far so good) I'm using 1mm annealed copper gaskets torqued to 35ftpds on a 103mmx78 engine with 10.5 to on compression .

[Type 4 Unleashed]

Hi Bill
Have you tried mocking up the cyl's & heads with the RW studs yet, post how it goes. Since, you had their cyl's and had them do pistons, It probably would of cost a little more, but you should of went with LN's ARP studs.

I am just against drilling and machining unnecessarily, especially when there are options that don't require it. I did the 1/2" thru bolts years ago one time.
Now, if I am building something with a little more HP or it will pull some RPM's, I will have the main saddles pinned, that keeps the case halves from walking.

[Bills914-4]

Hi Bill
Have you tried mocking up the cyl's & heads with the RW studs yet, post how it goes. Since, you had their cyl's and had them do pistons, It probably would of cost a little more, but you should of went with LN's ARP studs.

I am just against drilling and machining unnecessarily, especially when there are options that don't require it. I did the 1/2" thru bolts years ago one time.
Now, if I am building something with a little more HP or it will pull some RPM's, I will have the main saddles pinned, that keeps the case halves from walking.

Hi Richard ,
I drilled my 2.8 motor years ago ,it is now shuffled pinned (by Jorge @ EMW , which requires line bore ), it was done after I
notice the case was fretting , In the future I'll shuffle pin this motor ,

LN Engineering now uses RaceWare studs ( ARP no longer makes vw studs) they only stock standard length ,
(https://lnengineering.com/products/arp/ ... shers.html)

I mocked up this motor, it went together real smooth, everything lined up , I can't say that about my 2.8 , it has inserts &
scat 10mm long studs , it has clearance issues everytime I put it together , I had it done by another shop , I think it
has to do with the type inserts they use ,

While I was mocking it up , I decided to fit my horizontal fan shroud ( I purchased incomplete ,it needed a alternator fan &
ring plus a mounting system & a few other things, it came with a glass shroud & dual pulley mount) ,
I learned I need to section it to widen it & a few other details ,
heres a few pics , enjoy and thanks for looking Bill D.

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heres a few with the shroud , needed to remove the heads & cylinders till I can widen it to fit

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[Bills914-4]

here's a few pic's of the oil pump , I picked up a used dry sump pump for cheap , but it needed some reconditioning
and some modifying , it had a mechanical fuel pump mount out the front , so I cut the shaft about .050 below the
housing surface , then put a cover plate I had on it , I plan on putting a oil pressure bypass on it , I also o-ring it at work,
thanks for looking Bill D.

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here's it mounted when I had the cam in checking clearance's with pump shaft & cam slot ,

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[Type 4 Unleashed]

That's interesting about LN's ARP Type lV studs, which were made from the ARP 2000 material . Those were the only studs that supposedly worked with LN cylinders ? And LN had the exclusive rights to those ARP Type lV studs, and would only sell them when you bought their cyl's. So either the price went way up and or ARP required a substantial quantity to justify making them, and @ their price, the Type lV cyl's aren't a big mover.

Did you know about EMW's type lV studs ? These are the ones I use, Direct replacement for stock studs, the threaded ends are longer for as much as a 1/2" cyl spacer and just need to be trimmed for your stroke and are SAE threads instead of Metric and use 7/16" 12 point nuts. For future reference: Type lV Stock to Stroker Cyl Studs

I like your fan setup, looks like the one made in England. When I get back to working on my 914, I intend to install one of my Reichart flat fan setups, my favorite is the one produced for NATO for the self propelled Type lV powered 70mm Howitzer Cannon in OD Green...

[Clatter]

I love these kinds of builds.

Care to share what you will be doing with all of that pump?
Two stages for scavenge?

[Bills914-4]

Care to share what you will be doing with all of that pump?
Two stages for scavenge?
[/quote]

Hi Clatter,
Yeah it is kinda of a brute, but the price was good ($50.00 on samba ) I took a chance (it paid off it needed some work, blasting the
housing deburring the gears & removing the mechanical fuel pump plate , It has just one scavenge port, but its huge 2 x 32mm & 1 pump
port 1 x 32mm , I run a dry sump pump on my 2.8 (2x30mm + 1x30mm/bugpak) , I'm trying to set it up (engine transfer) so I don't take to
many parts off the 2.8 in the process of of the install ,
O-yeah on the scavenging of the oil , I draw in (scavenge) from the deep sump (an-12 ) and scavenge out thru to exit ports , -8 line off the case
sends it to a therma-stat bypass/rear oil cooler & back to a 3 gal. tank , -10 line off the pump sends it up to front thema-stat bypass/ front
oil cooler and heater core inside of a/c system , and back to tank , reads a little crazy but it works , the hottest my oil has gotten is 190
degrees a few times in the summer on long drives ,
the front section of the pump (pressure side) draws from tank ( -12 line x 10"long ) -10 from pump to filter & -8 from filter straight to main oil
galley of case ,
here's a few pic's of 2.8 system , remember scavenge is low pressure (no resistance) thanks for looking Bill D.

blue fitting on left main oil galley after pressure bypass( Idont use/I use external bypass) the hole between blue & -10 black fitting(scavenge) gets
a plate with fitting (-8 scavenge / you can see gear down bottom )

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hose nightmare , I have a ballvalve lever (control oil to heater core) I can turn from inside (under dash) to control defrost & mild heating by hot oil ,

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this is an older pic of the 2.8

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[Bills914-4]

Here's a few pic's of the flywheel & clutch assembly , it's a little heavier then I would like ,but that's ok for this build,
with the smaller intake ports & this cam, I'm hoping it will still be snappy , thanks for looking Bill D.

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on the left is a old 215mm single pressure plate, on right is new 228 twin pressure plate ,

[Bills914-4]

I got the pistons back from SwainTech coatings ( http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/automotive-coatings/ ) & the
bearings back from Calico coatings ( www.calicocoatings.com/coatings/ ) thanks for looking Bill D.

I had the skirts recoated with PC-9 & the tops with TBC

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CT-1 on rods & mains and CT-15 on cam

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[Type 4 Unleashed]

I see your going with straight cuts, I ran a set for a year in my 914, a daily driver, and the best thing I ever did was to take them out. The 1st month was ok, the 2nd month I was starting to re-think the straight cuts, going into the 3rd month, these things had to go.

Over time,the whinnnning just gets to you, and it muffles the sounds of the motor, so issues you would normally catch are covered up by the whining.