Lotrat wrote:There are 4 different lengths. Did you use the correct cable? If the clutch arm on your trans isn't the correct one for your year, you may also come up short.
The clutch arm on the cross shaft doesn't make any difference.
The bowden tube and the bowden tube support bracket are the biggest factors.
Really? Why did VW add 21mm to the length of the cable for the '72?
When I replaced my clutch cable I found that I didn't have the correct clutch arm for my model year and it took me a while to figure out which clutch cable I really needed. The clutch arm was the only variable in my case.
Bruce wrote:
candymustang65 wrote:
Any chance you know the exact origin and why between the Last two think its 4 and 5 that one IRS is longer than the other ?
Is it the Single Side plate and Double Side Plate on the IRS or S.B. V.s. the Standard Bugg as to the longer lenght of the Arm ?
The change from the 90mm arm (# 4) to the 100mm arm (# 5) happened in early in the 75 model year. About 6-8 months after the cable length was reduced by 13mm.
Nothing to do with double or single side covers, nothing to do with IRS or swing axle. All German gearboxes built after mid 75 got the long arm. IRS and swing axle.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
211 721 361D also fits `74 Type I through VIN 1x42398010.
From 1x42398011 through 1x42663259 it goes back to the 311721361.
From 1x42663260 to end of production it's 111721361E.
There have been several other P/Ns over the ages, but in the interest of reducing the number of parts to keep in stock they've substituted ones which are approximately the same (just as has happened for the cables themselves). For example, it's obvious that there were no 311 parts before the early `60s (there were no Type IIIs then), but the 311 721 361 is close enough to work on older Type Is, so it's the only part still manufactured that'll fit them.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
This forum is awsome !! so i just purchased a new tranny from KCR out of cali and it has the tube with the late throw out bearing. I need to take off the center ring on my kennedy pressure plate for this to work properly right??
Yes, for the late TOB the thrust ring must be removed from the pressure plate. It shouldn't be a problem with the Kennedy cover, but some have "fingers" that are a bit too long and could potentially foul on the guide tube, so take the extra minute to check for that before you bolt the cover on.
Hi everyone I'm not sure if I've got all the right bit's to get on and fit my clutch and engine, could anyone please let me know if I need a centreing ring or maybe the sleeve, my bus is a 68 so I'm assuming that I have an early type clutch arm?
If anyone could help me out with some info of what I need that would be great
Thanks. Dan
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Igotaholeybus wrote:Oh yeah the photos are of what parts I've got
That is a guide tube clutch cover, and a not guide tube throw bearing and not not guide tube bell housing (looks early bay bus to me).
The simplest would be to get an early throwout bearing and clutch cover.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
sideshow wrote:...The simplest would be to get an early throwout bearing and clutch cover.
The better, but harder, way would be to change to a `71 bellhousing which has the late-style cross-shaft and the guide tube which are needed for the TOB and cover that you have. A `72-`75 bellhousing would also work, but IIRC you'd want to lop off the "ears" on the top to clear the bodywork of the `68.
How old is this trans? Does it have the six acorn nuts on each sideplate, or the later arrangement with a special threaded part that adjusts the ring gear position? The early style is weaker and harder to find parts for so you'll probably end up running it until it drops and then replacing it with a newer one, so its present condition may influence which choice is best for you (if it's on its last legs the new clutch may well outlive it).