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Cool fix for a rusty reflector on peanut type turn indicator by duginabug
Early headlight bucket assembly made easy by duginabug.
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Replacing socket head screws on the CV joint
10 common things that result in death and destruction of your VW.

Still looking for How To's here guys and gal's.

Needs a link of one absolutely required reading how-NOT-to...

How not to burn down your VW...
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 1&t=126942

Done Thanks Piledriver

I'm fairly desperate for a "how to choose a head within a budget" and "how to rebuild a used head" if anybody feels like posting those...

Stray

Stray Catalyst wrote:I'm fairly desperate for a "how to choose a head within a budget" and "how to rebuild a used head" if anybody feels like posting those...

Stray

Start a thread and let's see where it goes.

How to soften a ride on my allison buggy help

red neck wrote:How to soften a ride on my allison buggy help.

I'll second that. Mine rides like a covered-wagon.

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=144525

This is a recent discussion on the subject that may be of some value. The subject may not be exactly what you want but there are enough cornels of information here for you to digest and get some ideas.

Also, a couple of things to consider is the placement of the fuel tank as the weight of it up front can make some difference in making your decision.

The wheel base (80" vs. 95" wheel base) can/may/could affect your decision as well as use; e.g., street, track/auto-cross, off-road or any combinations of several or all.

There are other ideas such as removing leaves or "nicking" the leaves to cause them to break after installation but I don't recommend either of those ways. You can do a search and find several others discussions on the subject but this is not answering what you wanted... a good single collection of information.

Also remember, if you have the bucks then there are a couple of companies making IFS conversions.

More information but not your question:

Don't forget to stiffen up the perimeter/body mount tunnel: once the bug body is removed and the body is not there to support the pan it is severely weakened and can bend in the front of the tunnel or start to fracture in the e-brake area like mine did. By adding the stiffener is does make a difference by keeping the pan halves from flexing and, if you do get rid of the looks only "show bar" and put a cage in with side bars for your protection, it adds more support for the pan plus protect you and your passengers. There is a commercial stiffener for the stock VW pan (http://evhcompany.com/) that may be able to modified to work on the buggy



or you can make your own which is what I did. Kerf bending in this case but I also tried to heat bend the support which did work just not as need. You have to be sure that you don't put a warp in the tube as you bend it but it can be done.

http://www.mooreparts.com/store/search.asp

Also don't forget to add the front beam support, preferably both the lower and upper tubes. They strengthen/support the beam as well as support the frame head.

Lee

My opinion is worth slightly less than you paid for it so act accordingly.

(I don't think this belongs here so if the mod wants to move it... it is OK with me.)

Thanks for the thread, this is really useful!

Hi I have a couple of questions I have a 1900 wasserboxer and I am looking into building a performance oxyboxer can some one assist what would be the best sleaves to fit the porch 914 sleaves or something els

T1 jugs get the od//bottom shortened a bit due to register height, need adapters to fit in the stock registers.
The studs probably also need relocated depending on what heads you plan to use.

There is likely a basic how-to at the top of the wbx//type 5 forum, but the pictures may be MIA due to a forum move and Photobucket changing their terms of service and breaking a lot of folks photo links..

Piledriver wrote: ↑Fri Aug 11, 2017 2:32 am..the pictures may be MIA due to a forum move and Photobucket changing their terms of service and breaking a lot of folks photo links..

Photobucket definitely messed their user base.

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 0#p1266888

This gives some ideas on matching and joining tubes.

Lee

I got thinking about the discussion on front K&L (link-pin) conversion using spherical rod ends (http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... start=1650) so I went out and took some pictures using the ends that I have.
This is a markup of the idea Pete posted. I got looking at it and got wondering so I went, as I said above and took some pictures of the rod end I have waiting to be used in another situation.
This is what the rod end looks like in a flat situation...
… and this is what it looks like with a drift pin in place to show angles.
This shows max angle that is limited by the drift pin hitting the housing.
This is a plan view of the max angle also showing rotation of the "ball". Notice how the amount of ball in the housing changes with angle.
This shows the ball rotated 90° from the horizontal position. I wonder if this is how the ball is pressed into the housing.

Food for thought maybe.

Lee