Brake MC

[Hulken]

Is something like this possible to use?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wilwood- ... 563a726b4a

[wildthings]

Is something like this possible to use?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wilwood- ... 563a726b4a

It does look like something that could be made to fit easily enough. Sounds like it is available in several sized to get the correct volume and pressure. I would try and find a factory replacement first, but if you can't then go this route.

[Hulken]

I'm not sure of spacing on the mounting holes of org mc , but this could be a solution?

[bradey bunch]

Check rockauto.com
I see they have remanned ones for $28 (but I think you have to send in your core first) and brand new for a bit over $100 if i remember correctly. Mine just arrived today from an ad on the other site. It is nos ate.

Braden

[kps70]

I have a new brake master cylinder somewhere that I bought from the states last year. It is no good for me as it does not fit my car (right hand drive and they are different!). Do you want me to send you this one to Norway?
Cheers
Kieron

[Hulken]

I have a new brake master cylinder somewhere that I bought from the states last year. It is no good for me as it does not fit my car (right hand drive and they are different!). Do you want me to send you this one to Norway?
Cheers
Kieron

Yes, let's make a deal for it! Maybe there is something you are looking for, so we can swap parts?

[ubercrap]

I believe the master cylinder you linked to is not dual circuit. It does not appear that any of Wilwood's dual circuit or "combination" master cylinders have side mounting holes like their single circuit ones, unfortunately. FYI the mounting holes on the Type 4 master cylinder seem to be 60mm center to center.

[raygreenwood]

Yes....that is correct. That is not a dual circuit master cylinder. At one time I thought about using that cylinder from Wilwood for a clutch master, but the volume is not high enough because of stroke length and diameter differences. It will work...but will feel odd. A much better fit for clutch master is the vanagon clutch master cylinder. It is the identical volume and stroke...and with a simple angle iron adaptor will bolt right up.

Its nice to see rebuilt master cylinders showing up on the market for easonable prices again. There are several drawbacks to this though.
(1) It comes in waves. With quite a few 412's coming out of the woodwork....someone somewhere in the reman pipe decided they had enough parts requests to make it worthwhile rebuilding a few. This is about the third wave of availability in the last two decades.....with HUUUUGe dry spells in between of about 5 years when you cannot find a cylinder or kit. Thats about two years longer than teh master cylinders live in et climates. This is not a great solution.

(2) Almost all of these remans are original ATE and FAG cylinders. They are mostly being rebuilt by what was Lucas (if my sources are correct). Quality varies. Also, many of these have been overbored and have non-stock pistons in them....which means you most probably will never be able to rebuild them if you need to.

(3) Buying up available ones now for future dryspells does not work well.....unles you disassemble them and store the cups and pistons carefully and preserve the cylinder itself in transmission oil to prevent rust. The cups tend to take a "set" and not seal well with more than two years on the shelf.

In place of chasing the stock cylinders I recommend....boring a hole in the pressed indention in the trunk....where the power brake booster was designed to be seated. This pressing is in all chassis's and on both sides for left and right drive. With a bit of fabbing to make the exhcange rod you can install a late bus master cylinder....or virtually any master cylinder of the same volume as stock (mid 80's to 90 golf and rabbit is identical stroke and bore as stock). It will take a bit of line and feeder rerouting but is not hard work.

Getting the MC out of the cockpit also doubles it life span. Almost all MC's that are inside of the car...tend to die early becasue they cannot evaporate the moisture that condenses at the outer opening of the cylinder inside of the rubber boot. It causes a rust ridge and causes leakage at the back side. Ray

[Hulken]

Yes....that is correct. That is not a dual circuit master cylinder. At one time I thought about using that cylinder from Wilwood for a clutch master, but the volume is not high enough because of stroke length and diameter differences. It will work...but will feel odd. A much better fit for clutch master is the vanagon clutch master cylinder. It is the identical volume and stroke...and with a simple angle iron adaptor will bolt right up.



(3) Buying up available ones now for future dryspells does not work well.....unles you disassemble them and store the cups and pistons carefully and preserve the cylinder itself in transmission oil to prevent rust. The cups tend to take a "set" and not seal well with more than two years on the shelf.

In what will you reccomend I keep the cups and pistons?

In place of chasing the stock cylinders I recommend....boring a hole in the pressed indention in the trunk....where the power brake booster was designed to be seated. This pressing is in all chassis's and on both sides for left and right drive. With a bit of fabbing to make the exhcange rod you can install a late bus master cylinder....or virtually any master cylinder of the same volume as stock (mid 80's to 90 golf and rabbit is identical stroke and bore as stock). It will take a bit of line and feeder rerouting but is not hard work.

Getting the MC out of the cockpit also doubles it life span. Almost all MC's that are inside of the car...tend to die early becasue they cannot evaporate the moisture that condenses at the outer opening of the cylinder inside of the rubber boot. It causes a rust ridge and causes leakage at the back side. Ray

This means I can use a Porsche mc for my Porsche brakes - when I do the swap. Might be the best solution!

[Hulken]

There is a company i Germany that rebuild MC's - http://www.wagenteile.com/index_e.html

They also have clutch master and seal for clutch slave, among some other parts.

I'm sorry, I was too fast - they don't carry the MC!

[raygreenwood]

Yes....that is correct. That is not a dual circuit master cylinder. At one time I thought about using that cylinder from Wilwood for a clutch master, but the volume is not high enough because of stroke length and diameter differences. It will work...but will feel odd. A much better fit for clutch master is the vanagon clutch master cylinder. It is the identical volume and stroke...and with a simple angle iron adaptor will bolt right up.



(3) Buying up available ones now for future dryspells does not work well.....unles you disassemble them and store the cups and pistons carefully and preserve the cylinder itself in transmission oil to prevent rust. The cups tend to take a "set" and not seal well with more than two years on the shelf.

In what will you reccomend I keep the cups and pistons?

In place of chasing the stock cylinders I recommend....boring a hole in the pressed indention in the trunk....where the power brake booster was designed to be seated. This pressing is in all chassis's and on both sides for left and right drive. With a bit of fabbing to make the exhcange rod you can install a late bus master cylinder....or virtually any master cylinder of the same volume as stock (mid 80's to 90 golf and rabbit is identical stroke and bore as stock). It will take a bit of line and feeder rerouting but is not hard work.

Getting the MC out of the cockpit also doubles it life span. Almost all MC's that are inside of the car...tend to die early becasue they cannot evaporate the moisture that condenses at the outer opening of the cylinder inside of the rubber boot. It causes a rust ridge and causes leakage at the back side. Ray

This means I can use a Porsche mc for my Porsche brakes - when I do the swap. Might be the best solution!

The Porsche cylinders were 17mm and less desirable I had thought. Just store teh seals and pistons in a plastic bag with brake assembly paste on them. The real issue is that all of this type of rubber gets harder with age and with lack of exercise to keep them expanded....they are very difficult to seal with when you need them. Shock absorbers and struts have the same issues. The best method is simply to get the newest parts you can when you need them so they have a full service life ahead of them. This is also why I have been trying to make provisions to use alternate cylinders so that I can use one of several at hand when I need them.

I generally like to keep everything on these cars as stock as possible....except in the case of brake and clutch hydraulics. As long as they work correctly.....having the ability to install any properly sized master cylinder will work if it keeps me driving. Ray

[Hulken]

Looks like I might have solwed my problem, as I found a complete brake power booster for my 412. That means I use mc fra Transporter, or any other car with the same mounting. If I want something beafy for my 4 x 4-pot Brembo calipers, what would you recommend?