Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Do you like to go fast? Well get out of that stocker and build a hipo motor for your VW. Come here to talk with others who like to drive fast.

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Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Crawdad » Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:49 am

I got my cam gear plated with an "electroless" nickel process, to take up some of the gear lash. (Unlike standard electroplating, this is a process that can deposit metal very precisely.) The results are ambiguous, due to a lack of concentricity between the cam gear's outer diameter and the recess in the flange that locates it on the cam. Anyone interested can read along in this separate thread:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 5&t=149848

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Clatter
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Clatter » Mon Nov 13, 2017 1:55 pm

Love the build so far. Keep going!

And, no, you cannot pay someone to love your motor like you love it yourself.

I somehow feel that correcting the deck is better practice than shortening cylinders.
Might just be that it will be me that forgets their different lengths at a tear-down years from now.
More idiot proof, I guess..

Considered the HVX mods to oiling?
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2007 ... -mods.html

Also like to port the case internally to reduce 'pumping losses';
Especially with counterweights hindering the pressure from moving around in there..
http://johnmaherracing.com/tech-talk/in ... fications/
"Oh, You don't need to do all that... The valve seats are just going to fall out of it anyway!"
- Doug Ellsworth

Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853

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Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Crawdad » Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:41 pm

Removing the oil gallery plugs (with a slide hammer), drilling them, reaming them with tapered pipe reamers, and finally tapping them, required a bit of tooling. I'm glad I did it, because there was a fair amount of crud hidden in the galleries.
The best description I have found of exactly what needs to be done, and what you need to do it, is here: http://www.huelsmann.us/bugman/FilterTech.html

I drilled most of them with a hand drill, but the one near the upper left corner of the left case half passes VERY close to the distributor drive hole, so I used a drill press.

The drilling on the 3-4 side that connects the mail oil gallery to the center cam bearing saddle (shown with the tap handle sticking out of it) was not drilled all the way through at the factory; it had a big hanging burr that was obstructing the passage about 30% and needed another 1/8 inch penetration. I found a flashlight is indispensable for tracing all the passages and seeing where they connect.
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Last edited by Crawdad on Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Crawdad
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Crawdad » Tue Nov 21, 2017 8:58 pm

Clatter, thanks for the link to that article on case porting. That's the best write-up I have seen on that. Because I will be running a dry sump, and will also be using those magical Krank Vents, I hope to have pretty good vacuum in the case. So I figure the case porting is moot. Right? Very little oil, and not much air either. I read on one STF thread that it's a good idea to install the flywheel seal and sand seal backwards if you're running vacuum in the case, to prevent them from making a screeching noise.

As for the cylinders, I won't be shortening any of them. I am merely matching variations in their length as delivered (about 5 thou) to the variations in the case, which are also about 5 thou. So that works out well.

And yes, Hoover oiling mods are next!

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