Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Do you like to go fast? Well get out of that stocker and build a hipo motor for your VW. Come here to talk with others who like to drive fast.

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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by brewsy » Thu Nov 30, 2017 4:34 pm

Looking good. Really nice work and as you say the Pro builders are good but nobody is going to put this much attention into your engine than you..
Cant wait for more.


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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Clatter » Mon Dec 04, 2017 5:30 pm

Oh, I love me some thorough motor building like this! :D

Ray vallero (RIP) had a couple of .060"(IIRC) holes drilled in the pushrods up near the adjusters.
The pushrods spin when in use, and hop up and down, so it was like a Rain-Bird sprinkler for the springs, guides, etc.
His build is on the Samba, but all of the pictures got lost, unfortunately..

I have filed a groove in the side of the rocker, adjacent to the shim, from the shaft pointing at the lash cap.
Not sure it helps, but it seems like it would aim a spray of oil at the rocker pad..

There is also the idea of drilling thru the rocker casting to spray straight at the lash cap.
If you have ever seen some Toyota rods, the rod/bearing is drilled to aim at the bottom of the wrist pin.
Kinda like that..

Or you could do this with the rods..
Or do grooves, like in the type 4 'bulletin'.
Pison squirters?

WRT case venting,
Remember that you have adjacent cylinders going in opposite directions.
The air/oil underneath each piston needs somewhere to go, and the adjacent cylinder needs the opposite.
This means that the more easily the vulume of the cylinder can move across the case, the les power you use.
Even if it is a vacuum..
So, even if it is a dry sump, you want to minimize 'pumping losses'.
Especially with bigger bore/stroke,
Especially with counterweights in the way.
I am of the opinion we always see oil leaks with performance VWs because they have too much internal pressure, in places, at times during hard running.

Not just porting the case, but also polishing the inside?

Did you ever see the fully polished and knife-edged crank by the user here 'The Astronaut'?
Maybe he was on TOS.. Can't remember..

This is just TOO good..

Love it when you can do some finessing to parts to have a win-win-win.

More power, more efficiency, longer life.. All for doing some work - not nessesarily even buying any parts.
"Oh, You don't need to do all that... The valve seats are just going to fall out of it anyway!"
- Doug Ellsworth

Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853

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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Crawdad » Wed Dec 13, 2017 6:27 pm

Thanks for the encouragement, fellas. I've been tied up with other aspects of the car lately, hence the radio silence.

I am coming round to the idea of doing some case porting. If I manage to get 5 inches of vacuum in the case, that would count as success, but it leaves about 25 inches (of mercury) worth of air getting pumped around.

Speaking of reducing pumping losses, I will be drilling and tapping a new port to the CB dry sump pump, which will feed in parallel with the existing port (on the pressure side) to the main gallery. Stay tuned for that.

I would be tempted to install some 911 piston oil squirters (with the check ball: they stay closed with low oil pressure at idle), but I think the CB DS pump is pretty tapped-out, volume wise, without adding those. The pressure side gears are only 21mm. I am already adding a volume demand with the Hoover mods, so I need to be careful with my oil-volume budget. But I think I will go ahead and open up those minuscule holes in the adjuster screws.

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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Crawdad » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:11 pm

I haven't died. I got distracted with 1. all the minutiae of doing a Subaru 5-speed swap (word to the wise: it will cost you twice what you thought it would) and 2. prepping the bones of the car, pictured here. Believe it or not, this represents a lot of progress!
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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by Crawdad » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:29 pm

Tomorrow I am sending parts out to be coated with a dry film lubricant: main, rod and cam bearings (mainly to reduce the psychological trauma of dry starts), piston skirts (since they are forged, I am running .045 clearance, so they will be knocking around when cold), rocker shafts, valve springs (the inner spring rubs against the outer spring, and apparently this contributes significantly to oil temps), timing gears (since I am running a dry sump, they won't be running in an oil bath), oil pump gears (mainly to reduce scoring on the pump body) and, after much trepidation, the lifters. This touches on all the voodoo surrounding cam break-in. One coating guy I talked to put it this way: "Look, the ideal break-in is none." I said, "yeah, but what about the fact the lifter needs to rotate? If there isn't enough 'grab' between the lobe and the lifter, maybe it won't rotate?" He thinks the lifter rotates simply because it is going up and down while resting on the tapered face of the cam lobe. That sounds right to me.

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Re: Squishy, dry-sumped 2276 build thread

Post by MarioVelotta » Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:42 pm

Dang man, great thread. I'll be ordering a couple new tools now :roll: :lol:
The Dub Shop
2276 Turbo - 92 Octane
11.537 @ 115.74mph - 15psi
1600 S.C. - ?sec @ 10psi (so far) 8)
1600 NA ITB - 18sec :lol:

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