i know this is two years old but wanted to add to it.
i'm toying between making the push rod tube extensions ala "how to hot rod your vw engine" book or making my own wind tray or both...
it seems like the oil is sloshed up here under cornering, and flung up by the crank.
i was thinking of one small windage tray on either side covering these two windows (but allow drain back) and holding it in place with a small screw in the cam tower.
this should stop the slosh, and the pushrod tube extensions should stop the sling from the top..?
or are the tube extension enough do you feel? i just don't feel like you can do too much to prevent windage issues?
yh too much for me, will try and make one from alu sheet, and chop up some pushrods to make some PR tube extensions.... already brought jaycee ones and would hurt not to use them lol
There are many ways to skin a cat, my findings and a different take on things, avoid the Empi windage p/r tubes, they leak, it comes from the collapsible folds. We had a sealed engine in the BBT challenge series, they had a wind age tray from the series engine control builder and worked fairly well, but nothing stops oil surge when the level drops from leakage, we blueprinted the valve covers on mine and customers motors, add welded in tags to keep the ELRING Gaskets seated and add 'craters' to further grip the gasket, I use an auto centre punch round the gasket rail to raise craters that grip the gaskets, VW motors have a bad reputation for oil downs so we are watched more then most, like bad dogs, it's the owners at fault, do sort your valve covers and only ELRING gaskets fit properly, most others are too small and will leak even with the above mods. Then you won't loose oil and suffer surge, Another way I skinned my cat was to encourage oil slosh up the tubes, I did this on my front running customer motors, we removed the wind age p/r tubes and fitted sprung non wind age tubes, They all moaned but we never touched the seals, tho they did pull our motors more then most others, all legal, I did thus because we ran very high oil temps, 130c was common, the reason was I had tiny dry sump pulleys and 30hp fans in the shrouds, now you see why I wanted the oil to slosh up on the tubes, we ran 5 1/2 litres of 30/60 engine oil and o/40 Mobil 1 in the gearboxes, most races were won on the first lap, we were gone while most were still warming up, especially at the end of the season, sept'oct' time when it was freezing up North were we went for the double points on offer to keep us on the long haul races at seasons end, otherwise, no body would travel, so to completely kill the surge with plenty of oil up in the rocker chambers you need the oil level about 5 or 6 mm over the top mark, I proved this worked as we never suffered any failures or oil leaks and we took the title more the once.
Just another take and angle on an interesting subject, some times the bad can be turned around to your advantage, best regards BBB.
buildabiggerboxer wrote:There are many ways to skin a cat, my findings and a different take on things, avoid the Empi windage p/r tubes, they leak, it comes from the collapsible folds. We had a sealed engine in the BBT challenge series, they had a wind age tray from the series engine control builder and worked fairly well, but nothing stops oil surge when the level drops from leakage, we blueprinted the valve covers on mine and customers motors, add welded in tags to keep the ELRING Gaskets seated and add 'craters' to further grip the gasket, I use an auto centre punch round the gasket rail to raise craters that grip the gaskets, VW motors have a bad reputation for oil downs so we are watched more then most, like bad dogs, it's the owners at fault, do sort your valve covers and only ELRING gaskets fit properly, most others are too small and will leak even with the above mods. Then you won't loose oil and suffer surge, Another way I skinned my cat was to encourage oil slosh up the tubes, I did this on my front running customer motors, we removed the wind age p/r tubes and fitted sprung non wind age tubes, They all moaned but we never touched the seals, tho they did pull our motors more then most others, all legal, I did thus because we ran very high oil temps, 130c was common, the reason was I had tiny dry sump pulleys and 30hp fans in the shrouds, now you see why I wanted the oil to slosh up on the tubes, we ran 5 1/2 litres of 30/60 engine oil and o/40 Mobil 1 in the gearboxes, most races were won on the first lap, we were gone while most were still warming up, especially at the end of the season, sept'oct' time when it was freezing up North were we went for the double points on offer to keep us on the long haul races at seasons end, otherwise, no body would travel, so to completely kill the surge with plenty of oil up in the rocker chambers you need the oil level about 5 or 6 mm over the top mark, I proved this worked as we never suffered any failures or oil leaks and we took the title more the once.
Just another take and angle on an interesting subject, some times the bad can be turned around to your advantage, best regards BBB.
Cheers for taking the time to write that, very interesting stuff.
so guessing you weren't running any deep sumps...? i'd rather not run one but didn't think i had the choice...one less thing to smash off.
running extra oil sounds good, i've always thought it best to run the min (from bike engines) but more oil in the sump in a sloshy type 1 can only be a good thing. i think its about 6 litres to fill the case up to the cylinder spigots but thats without PR tubes ect fitted and only rough as i could seal the case up very well
on the valve covers do you mean dimple it from the gasket face or from the outside to send in a raised dimple? or the sealing surface on the cylinder head?
Yes, the cover is cratered where the gasket sits, just lightly go over the gasket area with the auto punch, support it on a bench edge and away you go. Even a lowly camper will surge if the oil is on the bottom mark. Dry sump is the ultimate but not allowed on the cup cars, even these can tank surge if the motor leaks oil.
On T4s those are referred to as "tuna cans", and have been around ~since the first 914 went around a corner fast. and probably date to the earliest Porsche 356 days, perhaps even before that..
They have their ups and downs, and can do very little for you at high RPM, as the pump will empty it in a fraction of a second. They are generally considered somewhat better than nothing, and worth the $50 they cost.
EMPI even makes a T1 cast bolt on version I was going to modify the T4 case for the T1 sump etc, but it's so thin...and probably brittle... it sits on a shelf as a reminder to think purchases over more carefully.
It might be possible to do a Semi-dry sump setup with the existing block and a reasonably well sealed windage tray setup? (late model Porsches or some Corvettes) Or would they still nail you for having a drysump?
You could add volume with sump additions on each side. (wider, not deeper)
Almost any level of crankcase vacuum does wonders for ring seal and blowing oil... You just have to be careful where you suck.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
