CB Performance Dry Sump Pump Installation

[Fiatdude]

Electromotive also has a nice crank pick up that can be easily modified to fit on any pulley

[Piledriver]

Distributor speed missing tooth wheel will also allow sequential on many systems.
One wheel, one sensor provides all required info.
(works for Megasquirt 2/3 and Redline systems, anyway, a 72 tooth wheel (RC truck steel spur gear) will fit in a 009 carcass.)

Unless your brass distributor drive gear is missing or borked it works fine.
(Running a homebrew setup like that)

T4s have room to run a "standard" pulley with the CB pump, but upright converted T4 pulleys aren't really "standard" anyway.

[Piledriver]

Older Volvo Turbos (240-740 series at least) can provide a very nice sandwich-plate style thermostat, HD bimetal spring type, full flow through the filter at all times. Get the center tube that goes with it. Can be found in most junkyards. They have a nice Setrab-type oil cooler too.

Takes metric fittings of course so grab the hardlines, at least a few inches.

[Luftkraftfab]

I'm new to the forum and am CB dry sumping my street 61 bus with a 2180 motor. I'm planning on running a cooler all the way at the front of the bus just behind the bumper (the bumper has a pass-through plenum built into it for direct air passage through the cooler plates). I'm running -10 oil line which is larger then the I.D. of the fittings in the CB pump. The oil tank resides in the engine bay tray opposite the battery tray. It has also been positioned low enough to hopefully equalize and not drain back into the motor. I also have a thermostat loop pre-cooler that opens to the cooler loop at 180°. My worry is that the 12 plus feet of -10 line all the way to the front and then all the way back to the motor will create too much static fluid friction for the pump to handle. If anybody with experience with these kits would be willing to offer up some insight i'd greatly appreciate it!

[tufty65]

All I know is I put one on my race motor with a full flow mod front cover like this
https://youtu.be/y9lZKKz5rPc
and for some reason it couldn't scavenge the oil quick enough from the pick up as it was putting the oil back in to the main oil gallery and basically it filled the engine with oil and blew it out of both rocker covers and all over the track and damaged my motor.

[Piledriver]

One of the oft mentioned "tricks" is to send the bypass oil back to the tank, rather than having to pump it out of the sump repeatedly.
Also, I'd personally put the filter and cooler on the pressure side.

If you mod the pump with much larger fittings and open up the passages, esp on the scavenge side and pressure stage inlet, it will work better.

[Luftkraftfab]

Thanks for the info! I'll likely explore the option of reworking the pump by enlarging the passages to accept -12 fittings. I'm just curious if this pump's gears are up to pushing that much oil that far.....

[Piledriver]

I personally wouldn't but others have.

Eliminating the weird passages and simply having the whole setup "straight through" for ~zero restrictions is probably easier than blowing out the existing inter-stage holes, and eliminates several 90 degree bends..

[tufty65]

With reference to my last post I have been told that I had it plumbed incorrectly by using a full flow front cover and blocking the inner oil return to the oil gallery and pushing the oil out through the cover and back into the oil gallerys.
I thought that would work as a full flow pump would when you block the return.

[Piledriver]

Sounds dubious... other than having to make sure the ports line up.

The main restrictions are the pressure stage input and the scavenge stage outlet/flow path.

I once had pics on here of mine set up for "straight through" flow, meant for a T4 or WBX.
The ideas for those mods came from Racer Chris' version in his championship-winning SCCA E-Production 914.
He welded on mongo sized aluminum AN fittings, but it also probably ran over 7K most of the time.