Which Motor to build
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:34 pm
Which Motor to build
I have some 94mm A pistons and I am having a hard time deciding if I want to build a 1915 or a 2110. I would like to hear some good and bad on both engine combos
if possible. Just need to know before i order the crankshaft.
if possible. Just need to know before i order the crankshaft.
- Glenn
- Posts: 5108
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2001 12:01 am
Re: Which Motor to build
A 2110 uses 90.5 pistons.
Do you have cylinders also?
Do you have cylinders also?
- Tony Z
- Posts: 1244
- Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2000 12:01 am
Re: Which Motor to build
76*94 = 2110
If you are going to build a big engine, you might as well build the 2276. It is a little more effort but with the same cam and heads, the car will be easier to drive.
If you are going to build a big engine, you might as well build the 2276. It is a little more effort but with the same cam and heads, the car will be easier to drive.
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:34 pm
Re: Which Motor to build
Glenn I do have the cylinders my fault not listing that.
Tony Z if I go with the 2276 I would need the B type piston and cylinders correct. When you say easier to drive
What are you meaning with that. I have built a couple 1641 engines but this is the first time I am trying something new
with a bigger motor. I was going to do a 1915 but thought why now go a little bigger if I could with 94 type A P/C I have now
Tony Z if I go with the 2276 I would need the B type piston and cylinders correct. When you say easier to drive
What are you meaning with that. I have built a couple 1641 engines but this is the first time I am trying something new
with a bigger motor. I was going to do a 1915 but thought why now go a little bigger if I could with 94 type A P/C I have now
-
- Posts: 1925
- Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2004 6:20 am
Re: Which Motor to build
you can use "A" pistons up to roughly 76mm stroke without too much trouble.
Beyond that, you might be better off selling the A and purchasing B pistons.
What Tony is talking about is that the big, fat torque band from a large stroke engine makes it easy to drive.
With B pistons and a 82/84 crank, you would have 2276/2332
Beyond that, you might be better off selling the A and purchasing B pistons.
What Tony is talking about is that the big, fat torque band from a large stroke engine makes it easy to drive.
With B pistons and a 82/84 crank, you would have 2276/2332
- Tony Z
- Posts: 1244
- Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2000 12:01 am
Re: Which Motor to build
Ah, I didnt pick up on that... I read 2110 or 2276...
If you are debating the 69 vs 76 crank, then me personally, I wouldnt have an issue with building the 76. But thats me. Lots of guys talk about how hard it is to build a 76x85.5 combo, but I dont find it that difficult if using aftermarket rods.
I would say your decision depends on your rods. Stock rods, then anything much above 69 stroke is going to need clearancing. Aftermarket rods with inverted caps, needs less effort.
If I put together a 74x85.5 with 5.325" rods, I do clearance the case a little. Sometimes it isnt needed, but I feel better doing it anyway. With the 76x85.5 I have to clearance the case.
And yes, I have to clearance the pistons too on those combos.
OK, I have less than 10 of those combos under my belt
Are you getting aftermarket rods? That should be your deciding question, for ease of assembly.
You could mock up your engine with the 69 crank and see how things fit. Then stick something 4mm thick to your crank and rods (to mimic a 76mm crank) and see how much you'll need to work the case to be able to install the crank. It'll only take you 30min to check out.
A bigger engine is always easier to drive than the same spec smaller engine. Why? More cc.
Easier to pull away in. Easier to cruise in. Easier to do everything in.
Think about the difference between driving an old 1400 civic vs a newer 3 liter V6. How many guys complain about too little power or cc in comparison to how many complain about too much cc and too much power?
Heck, my 2332 with an 86C cam and 48IDFs... I have a freeway flyer combo box - so in 4th, I do 65mph at 3000rpm. I can use 4th gear without any issues all the way down to 1400rpm or lower if i want. Thats 40km/h up to over 190 in 1 gear... Granted she doesnt pull away like a banshee at 1400 in 4th, but if I lightly move the throttle then the speed increases well enough to keep up with slowish moving traffic. That in my opinion is a lot easier than having to shift between 2nd and 3rd the whole time when traffic speeds up and slows down.
If you are debating the 69 vs 76 crank, then me personally, I wouldnt have an issue with building the 76. But thats me. Lots of guys talk about how hard it is to build a 76x85.5 combo, but I dont find it that difficult if using aftermarket rods.
I would say your decision depends on your rods. Stock rods, then anything much above 69 stroke is going to need clearancing. Aftermarket rods with inverted caps, needs less effort.
If I put together a 74x85.5 with 5.325" rods, I do clearance the case a little. Sometimes it isnt needed, but I feel better doing it anyway. With the 76x85.5 I have to clearance the case.
And yes, I have to clearance the pistons too on those combos.
OK, I have less than 10 of those combos under my belt
Are you getting aftermarket rods? That should be your deciding question, for ease of assembly.
You could mock up your engine with the 69 crank and see how things fit. Then stick something 4mm thick to your crank and rods (to mimic a 76mm crank) and see how much you'll need to work the case to be able to install the crank. It'll only take you 30min to check out.
A bigger engine is always easier to drive than the same spec smaller engine. Why? More cc.
Easier to pull away in. Easier to cruise in. Easier to do everything in.
Think about the difference between driving an old 1400 civic vs a newer 3 liter V6. How many guys complain about too little power or cc in comparison to how many complain about too much cc and too much power?
Heck, my 2332 with an 86C cam and 48IDFs... I have a freeway flyer combo box - so in 4th, I do 65mph at 3000rpm. I can use 4th gear without any issues all the way down to 1400rpm or lower if i want. Thats 40km/h up to over 190 in 1 gear... Granted she doesnt pull away like a banshee at 1400 in 4th, but if I lightly move the throttle then the speed increases well enough to keep up with slowish moving traffic. That in my opinion is a lot easier than having to shift between 2nd and 3rd the whole time when traffic speeds up and slows down.
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:34 pm
Re: Which Motor to build
Seems to me I will be going with the 76mm crank and the
94mm pistons then. I am thinking going with the 5.4
H beam rods with that crankshaft
94mm pistons then. I am thinking going with the 5.4
H beam rods with that crankshaft
- Tony Z
- Posts: 1244
- Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2000 12:01 am
Re: Which Motor to build
Just be aware that you are going to need +/-4mm spacers under each barrel with that combo. And your cooling tin will move 4mm away from the fan housing on each side and this will also make it harder to fit into the engine bay. Plus the exhaust might not line up.
All things to consider
The 5.325" rods will turn this 4mm into 2mm.
74mm crank will turn this 2mm into 1mm
just so you are aware.
All things to consider
The 5.325" rods will turn this 4mm into 2mm.
74mm crank will turn this 2mm into 1mm
just so you are aware.
-
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:34 pm
Re: Which Motor to build
It is going on a Railbuggy so width is not a issue. I will
Go with the 5.325 rods also I have been researching those
Rods also. I appreciate everyone's input in this
Go with the 5.325 rods also I have been researching those
Rods also. I appreciate everyone's input in this
- Tony Z
- Posts: 1244
- Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2000 12:01 am
Re: Which Motor to build
let us know how it turns out
-
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 12:22 pm
Re: Which Motor to build
I'm just finishing a 2165 - 78mm stroke with 94mm " A " pistons.
Using stock length rods I wound up needing 0.140 of shim to get the deck height at 0.050
The pushrods are longer of course but that is not a big deal.
Now it's the sheet metal that will be hard to get right.
Using stock length rods I wound up needing 0.140 of shim to get the deck height at 0.050
The pushrods are longer of course but that is not a big deal.
Now it's the sheet metal that will be hard to get right.