Undecided engine spec, decisions, decisions.

[Mertman]

Hi there,

It's my first post so hopefully some of you guys can help me make my mind up on what engine to build. I've been into VW's for many years and thrown some engines together (badly, I was young), but now I want to build something a little more serious for my 1969 Beetle.

I have collected many parts over the years and I'm kind of getting to the stage now where I need to start making some firm decisions on what to do. The parts list may seem in places unusual, but I have picked up parts when I've seen them for the right money to keep options open, what I need to do is work out what is best to use an which stuff to move on. Some of you more experienced builders might say "sell that, not worth your time" which I am totally fine with.

So far I have:

AS41 case, that requires line boring

Engle 110 cam

CB straight cut gears

12.5 lb flywheel, 8 dowel, balanced with a stock 69mm T1 crank, new stock clutch.

DDS power pulley

1.25:1 ratio rockers with bolt up shafts + swivel feet adjusters

Manton cut to length push rods

Full flow oil filter set up

2x twinport Reece Fish (unusual) carburettors

76mm WBX crank (might be tempted to use this in the case)

One thing is for certain, I do not intend to build an engine of more than 2000cc capacity. The car is a Sunday car, not a daily. I'm also not looking to chase big numbers HP wise.

The biggest limiting factor is the carburettors. I brought them just because they're unusual. So unusual in fact that information on them is pretty much non existent. I can find plenty of stuff on the single version, but not a twin set. I have managed to speak to a guy that said they did run great on an 1835 engine. Are they capable of running anything bigger I don't know (does anyone). I'd really like to use these because they're different, however I understand I might be better off going down tried and tested routes of carburation.

I've read threads on here and different forums about the WBX crank in a T1 case. I know it'd be easier to just drop a T1 76mm crank, but that's more money. I can get the case machined for the right cost so machine work isn't a problem , so it becomes an option.

So, the question is:

Do I build a 69mm 1776, 1835 or 1915 engine

Or do I build a 76mm 1955 or smaller engine (depending on what size pistons I use).

Sorry for such a long essay, but I've probably given myself too many options and can't decide what is best. Your opinions are highly valued as you've most probably "been there done that" whereas I haven't!

Thank you for your time!

[madmike]

hang the Deano Pulley on the wall or use it with a 356/912 Porsche upper Pulley
Sell off that crank and get a nice welded one from DPR in Cali. go big like an 82mm You will like the torque,thick wall 92mm, sweet with a w110 or better a w120, will drive like a stock motor but with more power :lol:and Balance everthing=SMOOTH,,, Madmike

[madmike]

Ok see u only want a under 2liter never mind
but a 2110 in a bug would be sweet,, have one in a 70 bus and less then 600miles on it 20+mpg U.S. gal LEAD foot sofar
i re-used all the stuff from the 1600
40 IDF's
w110
Deep sump and full flowed the case
1 3/8 header
stock heads new spring small amount of Porting,kept the round ports

[Mertman]

Yeah I was planning on using a 356 / 912 top pulley.

I don't think the carbs can do over 2 litre to be honest. I think I'm pushing it at 1835 to be honest. But I'd like to use the carbs due to the rarity. The question is do I just stick with the 69 crank or wasser.

I've spoke to a guy near me who said he can do the wasser crank no sweat, the case need align boring anyway.

I think that crank, 90.5 A Pistons with a shim under the barrels should be about right. At least I have the option to junk the carbs and go to IDFS if I really need to.

Was probably going to stick with stock size valves, valve job and mild porting too.

[buildabiggerboxer]

The 76mm wasser crank will work well as your case needs working anyway, then the mods to use the 3 piece wasser no 1 main bearing and thrust shims, two things tho, you need a 5 bolt flywheel, many options here, you can use the 228mm wasser flywheel and clutch but the T1 bell housing needs lots of clearancing, it's easy enough though, the stock starter works ok with it, find a used T4 flywheel or buy a new 200mm conversion flywheel, you Don't have to bother boring the oil seal housing for a wasser sized seal, you could do it, but you can also buy a conversion seal at a good motor factor, you can't get a better quality crank then the wasser, just be sure it really is a 76mm from a 2.1, and not a 69mm from a 1.9.

[Mertman]

Yeah I looked into the flywheel,

I can get a 200mm forged flywheel in the UK for not a lot of money, so that solves that problem. I've spoken to a guy running a WBX crank and he thinks the WBX 3 piece bearing isn't worth the hassle, and a Type VI bearing will be fine. I'm 99% certain I have the 2.1 76mm crank. It came out of a DJ code block which should be 2.1 litres. I'll measure it to be 100% before any machine work takes place.

Thanks for the input guys!