Torsion Housing Stripped - Poor Engagement

[risk]

Took the bug for a drive last night, shifted into second gear and POW! sounded like the torsion bar snapped and the left rear sat right down on the bump stop. Got back home and tore it apart, inner splines are stripped out inside the torsion housing.. ugh.

Here's my setup:
Sway away 30mm torsion bars, sway away adjustable spring plates and solid retainers.

So, I can replace the center section with the beefier sway away unit, but...

Looks like less than half the splines are engaging the center section? I'm worried that if I replace the center, this will eventually happen again due to the poor engagement.

Any suggestions?

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[woodsbuggy1]

Air bags, I have installed them on a least 5 buggies. Much better ride and handling, you will need good quality shocks though.
Good Luck
Kenric

[Marc]

Just to confirm what I'm looking at:
1967 chassis
21¾" long 30mm bars (SAW1030)
SAW4101 springplates w/2.93" collar

How deeply do the t'bar outer splines engage the springplate collars? It sorta looks as though the bar was never in all the way to start with...maybe you'll find more to go on when you pull the RH side apart.

[Piledriver]

Put some bar stops in the adjustable spring plate, measure for depth with the bar fully seated.
Measure for that depth so you know its fully seated.

[risk]

Just to confirm what I'm looking at:
1967 chassis
21¾" long 30mm bars (SAW1030)
SAW4101 springplates w/2.93" collar

How deeply do the t'bar outer splines engage the springplate collars? It sorta looks as though the bar was never in all the way to start with...maybe you'll find more to go on when you pull the RH side apart.

You are correct on the parts/chassis. Everything was bought new from SAW about 5 years ago. I tried to contact them but they are all at the SEMA show til Monday.

The torsion bar outer splines aren't engaging the spring plate collars very much either. I will get a pic of that tonight.

[risk]

Air bags, I have installed them on a least 5 buggies. Much better ride and handling, you will need good quality shocks though.
Good Luck
Kenric

I considered this.. but I would have to relocate my external oil cooler as well as my radiator and fan for my water to air intercooler.

I'm thinking about installing the torsion bar adjusters in the center, and getting away from the adj spring plates.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Personally I think what you are saying is a good idea but, not having never installed or used them, I can only say that some people seem to love them while others have had short comings with them so to me... it is a toss up. Logically... once the center adjuster is installed it should be an easier way to adjust your suspension's ride height with one adjustment rather then two adjustments.

[Marc]

...The torsion bar outer splines aren't engaging the spring plate collars very much either...

Seems that you have all of the supposedly compatible components. I've never used the SAW center torsion adjusters (too spendy for me) but I see that they offer a "King Kong" variant that's described as wider...I wonder how much wider, if that would offer more spline engagement while letting you get rid of the adjustable springplates.

A cheap way out that comes to mind, if you're otherwise happy with your existing setup, would be to just weld in two of their non-adjustable centers (SAW7010) to guarantee maximum engagement...

[risk]

Put some bar stops in the adjustable spring plate, measure for depth with the bar fully seated. Measure for that depth so you know its fully seated.

Should have done this in the first place.. and if the splines were ok, or I was going to weld in a new center section, this is the route I would go. A piece of flat stock welded across the snout of the spring plate, tapped for a stop bolt would have worked well.

I pulled the other side out last night and it still looks good. I'm guessing that the drivers side torsion "walked" out over time, then with very little spline engagement- stripped out.

Then talking it over with one of my racing buddies, he gave me an idea. Why not just drill and tap the center section for two set screws (one for each torsion bar) then install the torsion bars and dimple them with a drill bit through the holes. Then Loctite in the set screws (kinda like the grub screws on the front beam).

This would be a hell of a lot easier than replacing the splined center section, and it would keep the torsion bars from rotating or "walking" out again.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I would contact someone like SAW about dimpling the torsion bars; you could be adding a "flaw" in them by adding the dimple and potentially damaging the grain structure. Kind of something a nick, scratch or bruise might do.

[risk]

I called SAW last night and got some answers. They seemed to think that I would be ok running it with the remaining splines and said that most guys use a wood or plastic block on the outer ends of the torsions to keep them from walking out. Also said that they never heard of dimpling the bars and using grub screws but didn't see a problem with it.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Good job Risk. The information is good to have... I'm surprised but feel better that the phone call was made.

Lee

[Marc]

...Why not just drill and tap the center section for two set screws (one for each torsion bar) then install the torsion bars and dimple them with a drill bit through the holes...

That'd be fine, other than limiting your possible torsion bar adjustments to 8.18° increments. With the adjustable springplates for finer adjustment that should be tolerable, but if you ever were to go to stock ones it'd be an issue.

You could put the bars in a lathe and grind a groove all around near the end of the splines so they could be retained in any orientation by the set-screws, but if there's already concern about the condition of the splines in the chassis that might not be such a good plan.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I no this was years ago but did it get fixed. As my inner spline is worn too.

[risk]

Sorry it took so long to get this posted!!

Here is what I ended up doing per pyles recommendation. Welded a 1/4" piece of flat stock in the spring plate, drilled and tapped for M8 threads, then used a long set screw and jam nut on each side of the car to hold the torsion bars in. It worked out well and has been holding up for a few years now.



Thanks guys for all the feedback!