930 stub axles

[turboedbug]

so i am looking around for a set and i see that people break the empi stuff quite a bit.

so with that said whats out there?

i have found that weddle has a set available. they dont seem too much more than the empi stuff so that kinda makes me think they are empi as well.

i am waiting on a response from weddle to see who makes them.

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[sandhopper]

My friend makes them from stock type one

[Steve Arndt]

http://precisionalloy.com/pages/other-products1.html

[dragvw2180]

IMHO I think there is more to it than just the stub axles. I also run a turbo engine (400 plus HP) in my cars and have broken almost everything imaginable , LOL. What I suggest is build your drive train the best you can but really look at your shocks and clutch setup. On my street and drag cars I remove my bump stops to let the shocks (double adjustable QA1 ) absorb the impact of my clutch release plus I am using a RLR REV6 clutch which slips on release. I have not broken anything since going to this combination on my last three cars. My partner and I have both been doing 1.3x 60fts and low 6 1/8th mile passes so it works pretty good. Just a suggestion. Mike McCarthy

[Ol'fogasaurus]

… and a good truss/Kaffer/traction bars (system) to keep the "pickle forks" from loading, unloading and doing the "dance of death" (circles and figure 8s) the drive train. I don't drag race VWs (or anything anymore) but controlling the mount arms seemed to be a high priority with them to keep things from breaking. Remember, you are shocking a passive system on the burnout and especially the launch.

For what its worth... Lee

[dragvw2180]

Absolutely correct Lee , even more a full cage if you are going to run it hard anywhere. My turbo street car got a full cage first thing which is tied into the pickle forks .

[turboedbug]

Good info guys

I will be running a cage, kafer bars. Good shocks, new bushings.

Also after contacting weddle they said that they are not manufactured by empi.

So i picked them up with a set of sway away axles and lobro cv's



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[Ol'fogasaurus]

Good info guys

I will be running a cage, kafer bars. Good shocks, new bushings.

Also after contacting weddle they said that they are not manufactured by empi.

So i picked them up with a set of sway away axles and lobro cv's



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empi truss bzar.jpg

This happens to be the EMPI bar but most of the reast of the commercial bars are either of the same design (manufacturer) or similar to it. All the loading goes into the shock towers along with the shocks themselves so that no loading goes past "go". The shock mounting bolt gets very long and could flex or even break the shock tower if your "dance card" get too full (loading and unloading).

Mendola Stiffy.jpg

Of the commercial style of Truss bars the Mendola unit for IRS (only) looks to be the best with the extra bar to the trailing arm pivot but... it doesn't attach to a bug/Baja body and the roll cage.

VGAJames style of bracing 1.jpg

VGAJames style of bracing 4.jpg

There was another guy who was here that posted a pix that showed his going to the rear seat area or maybe it was the floor area, I don't remember now. The picture he posted shows what looks to end in a adjustable length clevis bolted to a bracket bolted through the body into (maybe) the down bars of the cage was so the cage was directly involved with the pickle forks.

Since I have a glass buggy which has no real body for pan strength and load transfer I am going in a somewhat different direction that involves an intermediate spreader bar between the shock towers which then connects to the down bars of t he cage. Maybe not the best way and it is very involved (I "over kill" a lot of the time but it has served me well all but one time) but it also should work.

Lee

[turboedbug]

I am running the stiffy bar. Its a really nice setup.

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

I looked very hard (several times) at the Mendola stiffy bar but it ends at the shock towers. The main redeeming feature that the other similar designs don't have is the additional link down to the trailing arm pivot which does give some additional support to the shock towers.

In my case, with the glass (no real structure) body that was not really enough support for the twisting, racking and riding the rough areas on the sand.

I think your choice was the best of the bunch.

Lee

[Bruce2]

The main redeeming feature that the other similar designs don't have is the additional link down to the trailing arm pivot which does give some additional support to the shock towers.

That extra bar does nothing but add weight to the car. The reason others don't have it is because the designers understand basic mechanics.
These bars are either in tension, or compression. The main horizontal bar is in compression when the two diagonal down bars are in tension when you're applying power.
Now look at the extra link to the TA pivot. Is it in tension or compression?

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I politely disagree Bruce.

That extra bar ties to the pickle fork's loading to the trailing arm pivots which are very close to/at the join of the pickle forks to the torsion tube.

You push up or pull down on the pickle forks and the tube the connects from the forks to the spreader tube reacts putting a push/pull load on the spreader bar which, in-turn, ships appropriate to the application loads, to the shock tower. That other tube also works to send some of the pickle fork's loading to the connection to the trailing arm pivot pulling some of the load away from the shock towers. The needed extra bit is the transmittal of the loads to the body and/or the cage down bars for distribution to the rest of the body and pan.

Lee

I forgot to add that the connection from the pickle fork to the spreader bar can cause the spreader bar to flex in the direction of the pull/push which the Mendola bar should help diminish. One of the reasons I chose not go for other than a Mendola unit but then decided to go with my own design (good or bad).

IMG_0904 copy.jpg

This is the standard truss bar you can buy. I have it in my black buggy but the lower connection to the trans mount isn't where it should be but in the bolt hole next to it but you can see the loading trail pretty closely in this pix.

I can mark it up for loading if you want.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

With the Bilstein shocks 6000 series (replaced by the 7000 series) that I used has a combination miss-alignment spacer and adapter that required getting a longer bolt for the upper shock mount; the longest stocked around here without having to order one was a 6" shank and it was a bit too short.

IMG_1214 copy.jpg

Add to that the upper mount for the engine cage (the lower mount attaches to the pickle fork via. a solid mount) which means now that the loading on the bolt through the upper eye on the shock mount forging is liken to a long lever tightening a socket. Remember, the bolt through the shock eye on the forging isn't parallel to the tower or towers but at an angle hence the leverage problem.

The additional mounting plate in the "stiffy" takes a bit of loading off the shock eye partly because of angles and the additional tube to the trailing arm mount which could bring up another discussion.

There were quite a few other reasons I decided to go the way I am but that is another story.