What are these components on my '72 Beetle?

[rrb6699]

I kept forgetting to ask other so I'll ask here.

the silver box sits on the drivers side rear seat (underneath it) opposite the battery.

when I took this picture it looks like some sort of freeway and I think the word on it says "dynamo" but it's kind of dark here and I don't have a flashlight.

the oblong shaped black box thing is located under the trunk hood on the passenger side and has a clear plastic tube coming into one side of it and a rubber hose coated with cloth coming out the other side of it.

there seems to be some black fluid in it but very sparse and not looking like it's flowing or anything a lot of air mostly in the clear tube.

im particularly interested in the silver box because I'm having electrical problems with shifting into reverse cutting the engine off.

thanks in advance.

RR

[mountainkowboy]

Voltage regulator under the seat and in the trunk is the expansion tank for the fuel vent system

[ajdenette]

I believe the silver box is your voltage regulator and the black oblong shaped box is the charcoal canister to capture fumes from the gas tank and direct them to the intake to burn.

[rrb6699]

got it. I sorta figured them out but good to have some responses to let me know I was on the right track.

is there anyway to isolate that voltage tegulator so nothing inadvertantly shorts it out?

I saw the other end of that one rubber tube with braides on the intake when I was under it today.

thanks all.

rr

[rrb6699]

forgot, but should I blow out those lines so they are clear?

thx

[helowrench]

Out of curiosity, what books or manuals do you have for the bug?

[rrb6699]

no manuals, the harness is not documented. if I identify each circuit im sure they are hooked up correctly.

overall the wiring seems simple but a little tricky is why im having to be cautious.

rr

[Marc]

As stated by mountainkowboy, the can in the trunk is just an (empty) expansion tank for the evaporative-emission control system. A small buildup of fluid is natural due to the configuration of the little tubes entering it - it's all-but-impossible to drain completely. The charcoal canister component of the system is similar in appearance but resides in your RR fenderwell, and has a purge line connected to the top of the engine's fan shroud to push air into it when the engine's running. There's a small line connecting the two which runs along the RH-side body-to-pan bolts, rarely a problem unless the chassis has been majorly bottomed out on a curb or something...although the short connection hose sections may need replacement about every 20 years
"Dynamo" is simply Brit-speak for "generator" - this is indeed the voltage regulator. This is the original electromechanical type (no longer available)...if you ever need a replacement the current production item is an electronic device, sold under the same part number 03 019. Nothing here's causing your B/U lamp interraction (see my response in your post on that topic).

[rrb6699]

ok,

thanks, i'm saving all these posts fpr reference. I bpught a starter, although this one is working at times it grinds terribly when I try to start it.

rr

[helowrench]

I recommend getting the John Muir book, AKA the idiots guide, as it gives an obscene amount of general air cooled knowledge, and has the best troubleshooting flowchart.
Haynes is the 'factory' manual, great information, but devoid of explanation as to why the stuff is the way it is.

[Marc]

ok,thanks, i'm saving all these posts fpr reference. I bpught a starter, although this one is working at times it grinds terribly when I try to start it. rr

Often that's indicative of a spot on the flywheel where the teeth are damaged (actually it's typical for there to be two such spots, 180° across, on a 4-cylinder engine). A new starter may not help much if that's the case, but if you do intend to replace it you should know that the starters used in non-Auto Bugs rely upon a bushing pressed into the bellhousing to support the pinion shaft and keep the armature centered - when it's worn the starter will labor. Best practice is to replace the bushing when replacing the starter...in fact, Bosch won't honor the warranty on their starters if you do not.
With the starter removed, you can peer in through the hole with a flashlight while a helper rotates the crankshaft by hand to inspect the flywheel teeth...


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