Engine Variations

[jws]

Hey. Thanks for the quick reply. I reinstalled the stock crankshaft to check again the clearances and thrust as well as end play. Seriously, all checked out well. Indeed, this engine was stored for quite awhile. The rods were covered with a thin coating of rust and one piston was seized to the cylinder, so I expected the worse. Remembering that this engine will only see street use, cruisin and such, I feel that with all new internals, properly installed, I should be ok. Thoughts?
Regards,
JWS

[sideshow]

Do what makes YOU happy, don't speculate aimlessly and endlessly with strangers.
Assemble, test, evaluate.

[Marc]

The factory center main bearing shells have an oil groove on their backsides; on high-mileage engines the bearings pound into the saddles, leaving a ridge where the groove is. If there's enough there to catch your fingernail on, the case really should be line-bored for a "first-cabin" rebuild. Check the thrust surface on #1 main web the same way to see if a thrust cut is in order. If you're still confident, go for it. If in doubt, seek out another opinion. It takes a bore gauge to get an accurate measurement (with the case torqued together) but the "fingernail test" is a pretty good indicator. "New" spec is 65.00 to 65.02mm (2.5590-2.5598"). If it's over 65.03mm (2.5601") I wouldn't use it without a line-bore.

How're the oil strainer studs? If the case is corroded badly enough around them that oversize studs are needed, be aware that Rocky Jennings makes some nice step-studs which are the stock m6x1.0 on one end and m7x1.0 on the other - much better IMO than the ubiquitous m8x1.25 step-studs sold for this repair. I don't think he's producing any long ones for the one stud which doubles as the pickup hold-down, though...if it needs to go oversize you could use a "straight" 7mm stud and drill out the strainer & plate for it, just wouldn't be able to find a 7mm cap-nut for that one.

http://www.rockyjennings.com/

[jws]

Hey.
Just back from business. I am now finished with the chassis. All rebuilt. Working the body now. Much body work before starting on the engine rebuild.
The corrosion I wrote about is mainly on the inside edge of the screen mating surfaces and I really feel that I'll be OK with a little JB Weld. I again measured everything that I could and I found the case to be good in all respects. Now I'm considering which overall kit or parts I should purchase. I decided not to purchase a turn key as I wrote. Air Cooled.Net seems to have a good deal on the 1800cc no machine kit. This is just what I'm looking for. Any advice concerning this vendor's quality and rep will be truly appreciated or advice on just what overhaul kit I might purchase. Not sure if this is a proper question for this forum, so apologies if not.
Thanks much,
Regards,
JW

[Marc]

John Connolly of Aircooled.net was once a regular around here. I can't recall anyone ever having a valid complaint about their quality or customer service. There are some parts that just aren't available in first-quality anymore, but he's honest about those if they're all he can sell you.

Personally I'd go with the 88x74 combination over the 85.5x76, but that does mean having the heads flycut out to the "92" register. The bottom end of the cylinders is very thin (~1mm) so they're fragile until in place, but that's not a liability in service, and the rest of the cylinder is quite thick, more so than stock.

The 85.5x76 combination will need a little more case clearancing (not a lot, but you still need to check with any non-stock crank), but with the "B" pistons and 5.5" rods it goes together nicely - one of the rare combinations where that's true, usually when you build a stroker you've got to deal with oddball piston deck height (including the 88x74) so one could make a case for choosing the 85.5x76, especially if it's the first time you've built an ACVW engine.

[jws]

Hello again.
Long time between posts. Finally have all bodywork complete, painted and polished. One thing though. Should anyone out there ever need help with reassembling beetle doors, DO NOT CALL ME! What a frustrating job! Now waiting for my new meds to take effect. Nough said. Otherwise, I now begin the engine rebuild or perhaps installation on the new wiring harness. I made a purchasing mistake. I purchased the vw harness from Rebel Wire. It really looks like a cheap product. No connectors, flimsy fuse block and very elementary instruction booklet. Rebel wire does not offer refunds so I may have to eat this one, lesson learned, and purchase an actual vw beetle harness. Any recomendations are appreciated.
Regards,
JW

[jws]

Just finished my 1968. Built a 1776, Engle 110, Solid Shaft, American Autowire, Disc Brakes, Narrowed Beam with 2.5" raised spindles, Two Inner splines up, Three outer splines down, Dual 40mm HPMX, VDO Gauges. Runs great and great fun.
Regards,
JW

[doc]

you brought this one a long way. Congratulations!!

doc

[jws]

Thank you very much. Much work but worth it I think.
Regards,
JW