Bug lost power while driving. wont start

[rrb6699]

well, she's still starting ok with the new grounds.

if I get a no start again should I look at the voltage regulator? or maybe just keep cleaning or replacing suspect connectors?

I figured I could at least show you my ground strap that was off transmission to body.

enjoy. 45 years old.

[Marc]

Voltage regulator's not a suspect at this point. If your battery isn't charging fully, it would be something to check (using a voltmeter).

http://www.speedyjim.net/htm/gen.htm

[Piledriver]

If the hot/no fire recurs, I'd swap in a set of points next, and regardless get that electric fuel pump installed under the tank, passenger side flat area (where the master cylinder would go if you were British)

I'm gettin old, don't recall what the correct pressure is for a solex carb, 4 PSI sounds about right, 7 not so much.

[rrb6699]

that ground strap looked like it was burned to a crisp. it wasn't, just old. I put a 2bbl weber DFA or EV carb so Solex is gone. couldnt ijust get a different electronic ignition? I dislike points. have been stuck many times bcause of points.

If I do get no start I think there are a few more start related things I should check. I'm trying to think of them all. which wires, starter key plug, maybe old fuses, etc.

how often do you guys check grounds and battery terminals? should they be changed out annually? my observation is battery posts should be cleaned every 3 months.

I ran into a situation where I had to change my negative battery terminal since the ground strap there wouldn't accept the ground from the transmission (no way to connect it). does the properties of lead on those terminals change over time causing loss of conductivity? I found several older post connectors that looked tarnished and dark. I have had copper wire lose conductivity mid-wire before on my box truck box lights. that was something that surprised me.

I do think I'll add the ground from a different transmission bolt to the body where I removed the ground strap. electricity may or may not find that one the path of least resistance, but, it will be there as a backup should the new one lose some conductivity.

some here suggested I add relays to fix this start problem and a few other places. I know what a relay does but, how does this help solve electrical issues? when & where should I put relays to prevent problems? what values electrically should I look for with the relays for different vehicle circuits?

again, so far it's starting every try plus quickly. the car seems to run better. if I have the electrical situated for awhile, I do want to build my own A/C into the Bug. I just wonder how much draw it will add to the system and should I switch to an alternator with higher output than my generator. I'm interested in finding out the a/c systems they put in those Smart cars. that would seem like the perfect setup for a Bug.

[SCOTTRODS]

There is a away to change the distributor to a Toyota Distributor if you have a way to get some machining done on the Toyota part, to make it fit the Bug... This gives you almost Bullet Proof Ignition that requires almost ZERO maintenance. If I recall the Bore size is already correct. The real issue is cutting the Toyota piece to the correct length, and getting the drive piece on right. Drilling a hole and pinning it on in place with the correct play and all is the fun part... Look for a full ignition set on ebay off of a mid 80's Corrolla, Pickup, or other four cylinder.

There is a slight difference in the Spark deviation on one cylinder that is not an issue with the modification. If you look around online you can find a mild introduction and some details from Bob Hoover - Looke for "Bob Hoover Sermons" in a search and you'll find the article and likely the details.

[rrb6699]

hmm sounds interesting.

I've heard somewhere that a Porsche 231ci engine either bolts straight in or is close with minor mods. I dont know the specifics but if I pull this engine for rebuild I'm inclined to try that.

not sure if a porsche ignition set up for that engine would fit in place of the Pertronix I have.

??

[Piledriver]

I'm not suggesting leaving points/condenser in it, just as a troubleshooting step.

Pertronix are more reliable than points, but when they pertronix give trouble, cleaning or adjusting isn't a thing.
They work consistently when they work, but they die in annoying ways sometimes,

Anyone who owns a car with pertronix etc should really carry a set of points and a screwdriver as a form of insurance, like AAA. Some folks carry a spare distributor... points and condenser take ~3 minutes to swap out, whole distributor less, but then you need to reset your timing, but it can still get you home to do so.

The early 911 distributor is almost identical to the vw ones.
The 911 pertronix just has 6 magnets in the bit that goes under the rotor.

[LouieJ99]

I know I'm late to the party discussing the ground strap issue but I never understood why the negative terminal of the battery goes directly to the floor pan and then a ground strap connects the transaxle to the floorpan. In that configuration, the ground strap needs to be able to handle all the current requirements to start the engine.
I replaced the cable from the negative battery terminal to the floorpan with one that runs to the mounting stud for the starter. This way, the starter gets the best ground possible and the ground strap now only has to provide a ground for the rest of the car
The $5 ford starter relay under the back seat also helps deliver a high current signal to pull the solenoid on the starter since 12 volts only has to travel about three feet (from the battery to the srsrter) instead of something more like 12 feet (from the battery, to the ignition switch and back to the starter).

[Piledriver]

Sounds like a good setup, Louie.

Re: previous post about the carbs and fuel pressure....

Webers need 2.5-3PSI, MAX, or they pee fuel down into the engine and are thus impossible to tune.
(IDAs, IDFS, Holley-webers, any weber AFAIK)

[rrb6699]

so the Carter 4psi is too much? what about sticking a fuel pressure regulator on it?

I haven't solved the supposed vapor lock issue yet. been working on another vehicle so, haven't gotten back to this one yet.

I never had this problem until I pulled it out of storage last year. before I put it in never stalled no matter how many times I stopped or started. I dont have the right fuel cap so it pulls air. I guess I had a replacement vw fuel cap before I lost it. could be the problem.

I've had a few near stalls where it bucks and almost stalls but it starts running ok if it doesn't stall on those episodes.

[rrb6699]

I read somewhere that the fuel pump shaft expands and slows or keeps the fuel pump from operating. then when it cools down it works again. of course this is the internet, but, claimed they were a classic bug mechanic. I would think if this happens something would break

btw, I have a new fuel cap and haven't pushed the starting issue on a hot day, but, seems to be running ok. I did notice this fuel cap has suction when you open it up.

[Marc]

I read somewhere that the fuel pump shaft expands and slows or keeps the fuel pump from operating. then when it cools down it works again. of course this is the internet, but, claimed they were a classic bug mechanic. I would think if this happens something would break

If the pushrod's not bent, the chances of that being the issue are perhaps .001 in a thousand HOWEVER, if you somehow managed to get a one-in-ten-million intermediate flange that has a "tight" hole, ream it out with a letter "O" drill. With the pump off, if you lift the pushrod up it should fall freely of its own weight - and I'll bet it does.

btw, I have a new fuel cap and haven't pushed the starting issue on a hot day, but, seems to be running ok. I did notice this fuel cap has suction when you open it up.

ACVW gas caps are non-vented. If the tank is venting properly you should not be hearing any inrush of air when the cap is loosened. Try driving with the cap loose, if the problem disappears the diagnosis is confirmed (fix the vent system). We once had a customer with a Rabbit Diesel that had actually collapsed the fuel tank - the problem was traced to a wasp that had taken up residence in the vent line.

[rrb6699]

well, I had a cap that vented all the while before I got this cap. I only had the suction one time. perhaps the vent was clogged and cleared when the fuel cap was put on.

the other question I have is there is a seal leak. significant enough to cause several drops to appear on my driveway or where I park after driving. its not serious and takes at least a month to start reading low on the dipstick. also, on really hot days, because oil gets spread around while driving can cause smoking. but, I also have seen smoking out of the oil vent tube.

question. would block seal of a decent quality help slow or stop this leak until I can get time to replace the seal? also, does block seal cause damage or problems with oil circulation?

[Piledriver]

Oil stop leak has chemicals that swell the seals--- They also usually soften the seals.
It is generally used if you are going to sell off a POS car...
It's liable to work for a few hundred miles than then suddenly leak 10X worse.

Suggest Valvoline "high mileage" engine oil, it has some seal sweller in it which my help your tiny leak.

Sound like you need to rerun new lines for the tank evap. Easy, usually faster than trying to fix.

[rrb6699]

I'll give that a try. should I replace the cannister?