EJ20G into 67 Bug

[surfbeetle]

Definitely. At least it looks the part.

[surfbeetle]

So apparently today, June 22, is “Drive your VW to Work Day” and I had no clue until I had already driven my Challenger to work... Oh well, maybe next.

[surfbeetle]

I think I mentioned the squeak noise I have on the highway on the left side that goes away when the brakes are applied. I was investigating it today and found AGGRAVATION! The left side seems okay but the right side disc and pads are covered in trans oil. I’m fed up with that. For those who have read all 32 pages (wow) you may remember that I have had repeated issues with the axle seals. I wonder if I’m not doing something properly. I’ve never had issues before with my drum brakes but these discs are killing me. Maybe the bracket is not flat or something. I think I’m going to have a friend look at this and see what he thinks. Anyone know what pads I need for CB Performance rear discs? Since the one side is oiled up, I have to replace the pads on both sides so they match.

On another note, once warmed up, the car runs great but my ecu doesn’t control the idle speed. I was wondering if I could connect power up to the throttle body with some sort of dial so I could have a fast idle switch while it’s warming up. Any ideas?

[bad62bug]

hook up one line before and one after the throttle body, add a switch if your ECU doesn't have warm up control.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-803-V ... B003QVIVE2

[GS guy]

Surf,
I've read others with the Link/Outfront management ECU using timing advance during warm-up to get a "pseudo" fast-idle. Might be something easy to try if you're able to program your system?

On the axle leak, make sure the sealing surfaces are in perfect condition, good quality seals/o-rings, a little oil on the seal lip during assembly. On Any aftermarket axle parts I'd do a little glass plate/sandpaper lapping on any questionable flat sealing surfaces.
Jeff

[surfbeetle]

Jeff,
I'll have to see what my options are for that in the Link app. As for the axle leak, I never had an issue with the same axle flange, drum brake backing plate and axle cap. The only change has been to the CB Performance Disc Brakes. I'm at a loss with that. I'm going down to Coolrydes to have Kevin take a look at it to see what he thinks is going on with it. I think another pair of eyes may catch either what I'm doing wrong or any issues with the hardware.

[surfbeetle]

I drove it down to Coolrydes Customs where Kevin and Shawn took apart the right rear side. There we found that the small rubber O-ring was all chewed up. Kevin machined out some burrs on the small spacer that goes on the axle. Hopefully that solves it. Also I took a look at his new shifters, one of these and a set of pedals are on my want list. The drive down there and back was about 30 miles each way, water temp was just above 180 degrees F which is great because the outside air temp was in the mid 90's today. My biggest complain was a lack of cupholders when I went to get coffee. The other complaint is that I need to really put in some insulation to cut down on the noise and heat inside the car. Also, I have to got to relocate the fuel pump, it's just ridiculously loud Kevin said the squeaking noise sounds like from a disc that's not perfectly straight causing a pad to rub and squeak. Since we're slated to have a heat wave this weekend with temps into the 110's, (and my garage has no Air Conditioning) I'll fix it next week after it cools down.

[GS guy]

Sounds like a good trip Surf! I can only imagine Kevin's shop is like going to the Candy store!!
Hopefully the burrs/o-ring repairs will cure your leaky axle. Might try some disc brake quiet on the back-side of the pads to see if that helps? Had an old Accord that no matter what I did the brakes would squeal (generally when applied) - unless I use the disc brake quiet between pads and "quiet" clips, and between clips and caliper piston. Worked every time. Stuff seemed kind'a like RTV for brakes?
Did you try any insulation on the exterior of the pump yet? I'd try wrapping in some 1/2" thick pipe insulation and "soft-mounting" it to your bracket (like with wire ties connecting outside of the insulation to the bracket) as a temporary test. I've read the pumps can resonate badly when hard mounted to body structure? Then again, some pumps just seem to be extra loud no matter what you do.
Jeff

[surfbeetle]

Jeff,
Going into Kevin's shop is definitely like a candy shop, he's got all kinds of cool stuff and builds in progress. Kevin was suggesting that I move the pump off of the firewall and try mounting it on the either pan by the bulk head or off of the beam tube with some sort of insulation. I'm going to try that as soon as I can. Also, I plan to use some brake quiet stuff on the rear of the brake pads to hopefully stop the squeak.

Right now, the car is up on a trailer. We had to be ready to evacuate yesterday as the "West Fire" here in So Cal was burning about 4 miles away from here on Friday. The fire is over 80% contained as I write this and we had rain today, a stark contrast from the 115 degree F heat we had on Friday during the fire. I'm sure getting sick of the constant threat of wildfires in So Cal.

[surfbeetle]

Last night I decided to move the fuel pump off of the firewall. For those that don't want to go back in the last 32 pages... I had originally mounted the pump under the gas tank above the master cylinder. It made way too much noise in that location. I moved it to the lower panel of the front of the pan opposite side of the tunnel from the master cylinder behind the beam. It's definitely much quieter in the car but the pump is definitely audible by the right front tire. Maybe I'll find a quieter barrel type pump or go to a junk yard and get an in tank pump for the bug tank. I'm going to get some por-15 and paint the inside of the pan and lower body then put in some dynamat. I also installed new weather stripping on the doors.

[sfv41901]

Awesome build thread. This is going to help me out once I start on my ‘67 bug

Quick question: how can I see any of the pics? They all seem to be locked & the forum say I don’t have permission

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[surfbeetle]

Awesome build thread. This is going to help me out once I start on my ‘67 bug

Quick question: how can I see any of the pics? They all seem to be locked & the forum say I don’t have permission

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for the compliment. I just went back and spot checked some pages and the images are there. On some of the images that were too large for the forum to host, I had put them in a google drive and had the link in the post. I see that you are using Tapatalk to view the forum, maybe that reader won't let you see the pictures? I know that if you are not signed in when viewing, the forum doesn't let you view the pictures until after you sign in. You may want to try using Chrome or Firefox to view the forum and make sure you're signed in, (not criticizing, just trying to help).

[Johndl58]

Surf, love this thread. Mostly because of the progression shown, and the longevity of it all. And still going. I know you used a management system rather than cut up a harness, but I have a few harness questions that I can't seem to figure out. Wondering if you might be able to help me out.

[surfbeetle]

Surf, love this thread. Mostly because of the progression shown, and the longevity of it all. And still going. I know you used a management system rather than cut up a harness, but I have a few harness questions that I can't seem to figure out. Wondering if you might be able to help me out.

Sorry, while I'm comfortable doing wiring in general, I haven't done anything with a stock Subaru harness. My ECU was used when I bought it and the harness was included and ready to install. I'm not sure if I can help you. There is a "Subaru Powered Volkswagens" group on Facebook that is very active and someone there may be able to assist you.

[Johndl58]

Thanks for the tip. Will definitely check it out.