Urabus...it's in the works (Subaru EJ20T build)

[883]

What GS guy said and -

Noid light to check for injector signal.

Injectors can stick shut after sitting for extended periods. May require soaking in cleaner and/or a little physical assistance to get them freed up.

I believe surfbeetle was having similar issues.

[Master slacker]

You should be able to smell any unburned fuel from the exhaust if it's getting gas.

[panel]

Ok , tried a buddies LED Mac Tools test light with some Ford connectors plugged into the harness ends at the fuel injector and while cranking it strobes like I think it should. I guess now I should pull the rail and/or injectors and test them ? Can they receive 12v for a sec ?

[883]

Can they receive 12v for a sec ?

Disclaimer: Not necessarily the right thing to do.

That being said, I've done it without causing damage. And sometimes that solid 12v for just a quick touch will un-stick them. Might help to soak them in injector cleaner for a while first.

But blow them off well before playing with sparky things.

[panel]

Took them to work today and we have a Diesel injection room with a ultrasonic cleaner. I left them in there four an hour with the heat on then we rigged up a -6 set up with my rail and cleaner with about 40PSI and a quick 12v off a small battery and they worked really well. I didn't even get a click with them at home.

[panel]

Well that worked...........bus is alive after 2 yrs!

Motor seems to have a knock at idle but disappears as the idle increases. I haven't checked to see if the oil is draining out of the turbo but the oil level on the dipstick seems to be real high. I don't have quite 5ltrs in yet but maybe 4.5 in there. Good oil pressure though. But NO cooling yet.

Could there be a blocked oil galley.....is there a valve or pressure relief valve that hasn't popped or jammed from being not used for a few years? Motor could have sat longer than my 2 years of my conversion build etc.

[panel]

Been away at school for 7wks so I haven't really touched the bus but I have small updates. I have replaced the timing belt tensioner,mounted the rad fans,the rad itself and finished the wiring for them.
Almost done the front brakes (small upgrade nothing really) , mocking up some curves from some old rad hoses to take to my FLAPS and grab a few feet of marine grade 1.5" hose and finish that part off. I've also picked up some 5/16" hose for the return/bleed line from rad to header tank. Finished a small stainless intercooler bracket off the coil stud and that's pretty much it.

So close , so close...........

[panel]

It made it out to the driveway today under her own steam. I'm fighting an injector problem but it moves ! Seems real hot as per the gauge but could it be from it not being fully burped in the cooling system? It was over 210 from just idling in the driveway with both fans on.

[883]

It made it out to the driveway today under her own steam. I'm fighting an injector problem but it moves ! Seems real hot as per the gauge but could it be from it not being fully burped in the cooling system? It was over 210 from just idling in the driveway with both fans on.

Do you have the cabin heater circuit flowing? (either looped together of actually flowing through a coil)

Burping too. Can be tricky on these backwards suby systems.

And, if not already done, a little better fan shroud coverage on that radiator might help.

Great looking install, by the way. Sweet bus. Any worries about the proximity of the turbo plumbing to that pretty paint?

[dlamyle]

Do you have the cabin heater circuit flowing? (either looped together of actually flowing through a coil)
Burping too. Can be tricky on these backwards suby systems.
And, if not already done, a little better fan shroud coverage on that radiator might help.

I was wondering about those points myself. I suspect he may have even ran that heater loop through the turbo for cooling based on the location of the turbo and the mod to the heater core supply line off the crossover I saw. Panel? If that's the case the extra heat may cause issues with the thermostat accuracy. Also is the turbo now the high point of the system? How are you bleeding that?

Those smaller double fans are for rectangular radiators, adding a shroud to your current set up would trap a bunch of air. I'd suggest a much bigger single fan for that radiator with a shroud to pull/push as much air as possible. These turbo engines need it!

[panel]

Yes I guess the turbo is the highest point. I don't think I can get a single fan on there as there is a shifter and cables etc running right in the middle. I have no heater as of yet so I just have a loop as if you took the heater core out. Very similar to Ron's 912 conversion on here.

Right now I run it for a bit then pour more fluid in the morning when shes cold. No road trip yet , just driveway idling etc.

I'm not sure how to bleed it from the turbo area ?

[panel]

Hmm thinking the header tank on the manifold might be the same height and I can un bolt it and raise it up with the hoses. Might try this.

[dlamyle]

I'm not sure how to bleed it from the turbo area ?

I'd do something like this
http://www.frsport.com/-3-8in--Hose-Bar ... oCnZ7w_wcB
with one of these, or something like it
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51108/10 ... oCJnvw_wcB
You'll still want to raise that fill point in order to get it full of fluid.

[panel]

Have any of you guys drilled a small hole in your t-stats? I read a few guys do on some of the Subaru forums.

[883]

Have any of you guys drilled a small hole in your t-stats? I read a few guys do on some of the Subaru forums.

There is quite a bit of debate on the issue. I have on aftermarket stats (3/32"), to me it seems to react better.

I've only had one oem stat, it had a hole with a little pin in it that acts like a check valve, I guess.