Basilari 306R build thread..

[AKG1600]

Ok, a couple of pics of the cooling system work are attached. The idea is to have scoops under the chassis to direct air until the radiator and then out the rear deck lid:

Positions above the transaxle..


Another shot..


Empty radiator frame:


Three fans will be on the transaxle side to push through the radiators. Also, this is a closed radiator system.

I'm lovin' the build thus far Gov'nor! The radiator positioning looks well conceived. Could you run through again how the cooling will be achieved?

[noslzzp]

2. We're moving the battery to the boot which will be anywhere from 30-50lbs. (will probably shoot for the heavier battery just to even things out a bit).

Scratch that - the battery will be under the rear seat area.

[noslzzp]

Engine mounted/fitment testing:


Happy New Year!

[Richard Olafsson]

Engine looks nice!

How are you planning on doing the ducting to the radiator? If you are planning on ducting from underneath it has to be a fully enclosed system, there really isn't much space left once you put in the IRS arms, axles, fuel lines etc etc Looks like it will be tricky to flow past the radiator framework?

[noslzzp]

Engine looks nice!

How are you planning on doing the ducting to the radiator? If you are planning on ducting from underneath it has to be a fully enclosed system, there really isn't much space left once you put in the IRS arms, axles, fuel lines etc etc Looks like it will be tricky to flow past the radiator framework?

Richard, it will be ducted from underneath and enclosed. And yes, it will be tricky! It should be sorted out in the next few weeks.

[Richard Olafsson]

I don't see anything in the pics, but are you planning on adding support for the framehorns to eliminate wheel hop? Trapeze bar or something from your cage?

[noslzzp]

It will have the Mendeola kafer bar system..

[fezzic181]

From what I can see on most builds the Subaru trans bell housing face sits at the same spot at the stock VW trans. Since you are using the 3.0R do you have any general dimensions of the engine available? I'm just looking for some rough size numbers to see how one might fit in the tail of a Thing. The 6 banger torque is really appealing for the application. Thanks

[Jadewombat]

Great build, great fab work. The center of gravity on air-cooled VWs in just behind the front seat in the rear seat foot area (on single-cabs it's just behind the front seat also). The closer you can mount ANY parts to this area and as low as possible will benefit lowering the CG. It looks like you have quite a few hours in the radiator mount as it is. Take a look at this though for your ducting:

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Undertra ... ticle.html

Any heat transfer device (oil cooler, radiator, brakes, etc.) need that pressure drop to carry heat away. Do some measurements with a magnehelic or manometer once you get the car going, otherwise you're just guessing. About $5 worth of parts to make a manometer and wool tufts with a video camera were invaluable to getting my bug dialed as far as aero. stuff.

[noslzzp]

Great build, great fab work. The center of gravity on air-cooled VWs in just behind the front seat in the rear seat foot area (on single-cabs it's just behind the front seat also). The closer you can mount ANY parts to this area and as low as possible will benefit lowering the CG. It looks like you have quite a few hours in the radiator mount as it is. Take a look at this though for your ducting:

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Undertra ... ticle.html

Any heat transfer device (oil cooler, radiator, brakes, etc.) need that pressure drop to carry heat away. Do some measurements with a magnehelic or manometer once you get the car going, otherwise you're just guessing. About $5 worth of parts to make a manometer and wool tufts with a video camera were invaluable to getting my bug dialed as far as aero. stuff.

JW, this is awesome information. Thank you very, very much!

[noslzzp]

First mock fitting of the body on the chassis with the radiator placement that you all know and love.

The EZ30R in all it's glory:


Top view:


Exhaust treatment:

[883]

Wow. Nice build! Otta go like stink. Looking forwad to see how you're going to duct the rad

Any worries about that cat cooking CV boots?

[crankwalk]

Looking good!

[coolrydes]

Ok guys and galls.
I understand you folks don't think the radiator location is going to work. I am very certain that it will. Like in previous post by others about air pressure and the need for a lower pressure behind the radiator then in front, and keeping in mind simple is aerodynamics where I conceived the idea of radiator placement. With a Karmann Ghia there is a high air pressure under the car at speeds above 40mph. Also like anything moving through the air there is a vacuum pocket created behind the object. IE: drafting takes full advantage of this pocket of vacuum. This pocket causes drag, thus slowing the car down. This one of the main reasons that an airplane has a tail that narrows to a point to get rid of this drag. Another reference that I will make using airplanes is the fact that the wings do not gain lift from air pressure under the wing but is actually lifted by the vacuum or drag created on top of the wing.
Race cars have had to use wings to help develop down force to keep from flying due to this same fact, if you look at the side profile of a race car or in this case a Karmann Ghia it has the same profile as an airplane wing.

Now to the cooling / aerodynamics enhancement design.
First understand that at speeds above 40 mph the area above the trans becomes a high air pressure area (this is why placing our oil coolers down there has worked for so long). Also at this speed there is a negative air pressure or vacuum behind the rear window starting. As speeds increase that pocket get larger and the vacuum becomes greater. This is why your air cooled engine compartment seal is so vital to keeping your engine cool, because without it the engine vents start pulling air from under the car into the engine bay, the same air that just cooled the engine and became hot doing so is now filling the engine bay and being pushed back through the motor. With my design we are now taking the high pressure under the car and above the trans and using it to go through the radiator, and allowing aerodynamics to work in our favor by allowing the vacuum above the deck lid to pull the hot air out. At the same time we are decreasing drag behind the vehicle by filling the vacuum pocket with expanding hot air, and at the same time dropping the under car air pressure thus letting the cars weight plant the rear tires better on the ground. I've attached a quick paint shop drawing to help you guys envision all of the above..... I hope this helps all of the nay sayers think twice before their next negative post.

A quick side not to the person installing radiators in front of the front wheels on a ghia I saw on here. You may have pressure issues if your to close to the tires. Tires develop a lot of air pressure and the wheel wells / fenders are a high pressure area. In other words you may have trouble getting the air thru the radiator at speed.

Kevin "Coolrydes" Zagar

[883]

I hope my previous comment wasn’t taken as a negative.

I really am looking forward to see how you do this as I am planning a rear radiator mount myself. I’m kicking back and forth between a position similar to yours and a wing mount. Both can work. The wing sort of looks like a dead spot for vertical airflow but would be easier to service.

It’s also a bit of a different beast as I’m working on a mild Baja (well, it’s just a stripped bare tunnel at the moment, but mild Baja is the plan). No deck lid issues, just wide open space and plenty of room for whatever sort of scoops I want underneath.

I know that it can be made to work, it’s just a bit trickier than up front. It’s mostly about getting a good pressure differential across the core at speed and keeping the rest of the immediate area sealed off enough to prevent recirculation.