EJ18 in a ‘69 standard

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Thu Mar 15, 2018 6:33 am

petew wrote: ↑Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:21 pm I was kidding... Not a huge fan of the whole narrowing craze. Looks good, but otherwise not great. Still, I guess these guys got it right...

http://www.deltawingracing.com/2016-lon ... ns-at-cota

This beam was on the car when i obtained it, no clue how narrow it is but i do know its a pain in my ass. thought about going back to stock and adding the adjuster if i can find one on craigslist or something.

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Tue Mar 20, 2018 7:33 am

Soooooo
i love the ride height but looked while the car was on the ground and the contact pad where the bumpstop is supposed to be only has a couple inches of clearance. very obvious that it is my clunking issue. I didn't think this car was that low but maybe anyone who rides around at this height runs aftermarket arms? I am fairly new to these cars still but trying to learn so how do people get around that issue? I'm not opposed to lifting it a bit honestly but should i plan to swap to a thicker bar as well?

panel · Post by **panel** » Tue Mar 20, 2018 1:53 pm

If the bump stops are there can you trim them down ?

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Tue Mar 20, 2018 7:13 pm

panel wrote:If the bump stops are there can you trim them down ?

They aren’t there but i have to imagine it’d be sitting on them the whole time if they were.
Do people drive around with it sitting on the bumpstop?

A friend gave me some Bushings that i was able to use for the time being instead. Much better but obviously its a hardtail while
bottomed out.

soon probably gonna lift it up... its not the worst ride somehow but its not fantastic.

Also had a fun time last night when turning on the lights for the first time while driving since the swap. Battery wasn't fully charged but had enough juice to start the car so i figured it'd charge while running. Then i turned on the headlights and slowly started losing power, unnoticeable at first, until the car was barely running and trying to die. Luckily i was just putting around the neighborhood when this happened and i made it back to the driveway. I was a little puzzled at first but remembered when I got this car and of the short time it was air-cooled the same thing would happen at night. So i think something is causing the headlights to pull waaayyy too much power if the motor can't even continue to run during this. That or the Alternator is bad and generator was bad back then. Gonna try and test this weekend to find out the issue, also while i'm at it i'm going to rip out the rest of the extra wiring the PO had for whatever ridiculous contraptions he had in the car.
If anyone has any insight that would be lovely

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Fri Mar 23, 2018 9:15 am

Did a little testing, battery is around 12V when the car is off and running but once i turn the headlights on its starts to go down leading me to think this is not an alternator issue but a wiring problem. Checked a few grounds already but going to dig a little deeper as well as rip out a bunch of unnecessary audio and misc wiring the PO had in the car.

ajdenette · Post by **ajdenette** » Fri Mar 23, 2018 2:29 pm

I have found that going through PO wiring and removing unnecessary wires and fixing things to stock helps get things working better.

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Fri Mar 23, 2018 4:29 pm

ajdenette wrote:I have found that going through PO wiring and removing unnecessary wires and fixing things to stock helps get things working better.

Yeah only good has come from the cleanup i’ve done so far but there is still a lot to rip out.
Had the Alternator tested at O’Reilly and its definitely undercharging. Should be at about 14 instead of the 12ish its at which is suppose is enough to keep it running but not with lights on.

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petew · Post by **petew** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 12:04 am

Previous owner + wiring = chills down my spine.

I ended up having the whole car rewired to fix 60yo wires and PO's "fixes". Jeez, what a hack.

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Sat Mar 24, 2018 4:12 pm

petew wrote:Previous owner + wiring = chills down my spine.

I ended up having the whole car rewired to fix 60yo wires and PO's "fixes". Jeez, what a hack.

Yeah, not great.
There is so much extra wiring in there still. Pulled all of this out a while back

Pulled the alt out, took it apart to see if i could clean it up and improve charging but it didnt change much. I did, however, fix the right taillight wiring as it kept blowing fuses.

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joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:03 am

While waiting on the new alternator to arrive i was able to rewire the taillights to actually work and swapped to some earlier tails that look a bit nicer than the tombstones. During this i was able to eliminate about 10 more wires that had no business being in the car

(friggin PO)

Also reran the throttle cable with a bit of the cable housing from the donor car and ended up with a much smoother pull. the U-turn tactic i had before was a bit jerky on the pedal but this helped a whole lot.

Got the bluetooth reader in and downloaded the free version of autodoctor just to make sure i would get a signal before paying for another app.
The data was limited but I did get an RPM and Coolant temp reading which helps a lot. If i buy the extended version of the app i can get more live data but i may go with another on all together.
Car is idling around 2k which still seems very high yet it doesn't have the chance to warm up completely without the alternator dying so i can't really tell if it'll calm down once warm. Need to try again when i can drive it around without it dying.

Realized that one of the little vacuum modules thats hooked up to the intake mani is cracked which might have a little to do with my weird idles. Another has an open end on it so i really need to figure out how those are supposed to be routed or just take them all out all together.
Anyone recognize these?
From a quick search they both seem to be part of EGR, can anyone confirm or tell me i'm wrong?

A couple different diagrams call this one the "pressure exchange solenoid valve" and "purge control solenoid valve"

panel · Post by **panel** » Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:48 pm

I think its part of the charcoal canister system (EGR). My JDM turbo motor had those on it.

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:54 pm

ahhh 10-4
one is T'd into the FPR but i think i can just run the FPR straight to the vacuum source and eliminate these all together.
Probably test individually to see if the idle reacts as I'm working with them as well.

thank you!

Also got this guy working! OBD fusion with a veepeak bluetooth sender

Cold start with a bad alternator and erratic idle

turboedbug · Post by **turboedbug** » Wed Mar 28, 2018 7:20 pm

Cool stuff ya have going on there. That app is pretty cool

panel · Post by **panel** » Wed Mar 28, 2018 7:41 pm

Have you tried the Torque app ? There is a lite(free) and a pro.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... rque&hl=en

joelzy · Post by **joelzy** » Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:00 am

Oh nice!! hadn't heard of Torque but might have to check that out!
This one is pretty awesome once i got into it. Lots of possibilities to modify the dash according to what you want. Going to test this weekend if it stops raining and see how all of the gauges do, because of my current high idle i have a few extras added to try and weed out the problem.

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