Documenting my conversion to EFI/distributorless

[frank1380]

What did you weld, and what with?
I hope that's JB Weld. (really)

Aluminum to mild steel doesn't really... weld, and if you still managed to get it to stick, most steel welding filler will jack up the wheel pattern. Also highly unlikely to stay stuck.

Better to drill/tap and install some small non-magnetic SS button head screws... maybe 6.
If cant get non-magnetic SS put the screws in an inch or so in from the edge if possible.

...will a Hall effect switch work or do I need a variable reluctance one? I'm planning on using the MS1 with the 3.0 board.

You can use a Hall or VR sensor as you are not using EDIS.

Most prefer Hall sensors as they...:
1) Produce a consistent signal
2) Aren't remotely as noise sensitive, and
3) Can be troubleshot via a voltmeter simply turning the engine my hand.

It's steel to steel. No JB weld, I used ER70S2 wire and as little as possible.

I bought a VR sensor but I'll keep an eye out for a Hall that will fit behind the pulley.

[Piledriver]

Thought you had an aluminum pulley from prior posts.
As long as it doesn't change the width of the teeth as the sensor sees things you should be fine.

[frank1380]

Thought you had an aluminum pulley from prior posts.
As long as it doesn't change the width of the teeth as the sensor sees things you should be fine.

I do have an Al pulley and initially I thought I'd use it and then switch the trigger wheel to the Berg. I made the executive decision to forgo the Al and go right to the steel one. All of the welding is on the outside diameter of the wheel so the teeth should all be the same size.

[frank1380]

Started the coolant temperature sensor modifications. This is from a 2007 Chevrolet pickup 5.3L


Cut around the circumference of the brass with a dremel.


Cleaned all the goopy white stuff off.

I'll unsolder it from the black connector and extend it out with some wire and do ye olde electrical lug under the tinware screw bit. I found some thermally conductive epoxy that I'm thinking about using.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alum ... hesive.htm

[gtmdriver]

I had later cylinder heads with the tapped boss for the OEM VW sender unit so I just used that.

[frank1380]

Mine have the boss but it looks like it was welded closed. Steve Tims Stage 1

[gtmdriver]

An alternative is to use the VDO oil temperature sensor which replaces the rear oil pressure relief valve plug.

[frank1380]

An alternative is to use the VDO oil temperature sensor which replaces the rear oil pressure relief valve plug.

I actually have that but I've never seen it register anything on the gauge.

[Clonebug]

Oil warms up too slow for a good warm up reading.
I had mine in the oil and never saw oil temps much over 140-160 degrees F.

[gtmdriver]

Presumably though you could adjust the settings in the WUE, and various start up tables to compensate for the different sensor readings?

[Piledriver]

You can compensate for temp but not the huge lag time.
Folks have reported slow warm up even with the sensor in the rocker box exposed to oil.

Even that location on the head will be relatively slow.

On t4 heads, even the factory hole for that sensor is still not ideal, even though it is more in the "chamber meat" area of the casting.

Aircooled heads heat up very quickly.

I use an open element sensor in the hot air stream coming off the heads almost touching the heads, and have well sealed under-tins. Sensor body was securely zip-tied to a pushrod tube and has been for 80K miles.
(The T4 heads have airflow around the exhaust ports, so its the hottest air)

It's RPM/fan speed sensitive, at idle its only ~20F off under the plug TC measurement, at cruise ~75F lower.

[frank1380]

I went overboard with the shrink tubing but otherwise it turned out OK.

[frank1380]

Making fuel lines


The Corvette filter/regulator


CB Performance tank outlet/return T


Fuel pump mounted

[H2OSB]

Cool build. This gives me hope. This is approaching what I want to do with my build. Pile gives me plenty of advice, but he understands this stuff FAR more than I do, so he unknowing speaks beyond my understanding. Can't wait to see how this comes out.

johnL

[Clonebug]

In the first pic it looks like you are using Push-loc hose for the fuel line.
You don't want to use clamps on those fittings because the clamp puts pressure on the barbs and will cut the hose.
That style of hose and nipple doesn't need a clamp.