Timing light VS EDIS

[MarioVelotta]

You may be able to trigger it without the loop, But that will double the current the clamp sees.

[andy198712]

ah! i'll go have a look now

[andy198712]

worked fine but still fluctuated sadly just need to find s simple timing light.

i put all my timing to 15 degrees in the table and adjusted the trim, and it was adjusting the timing as the engine was increasing in speed, but it was adjusting the gauge on the laptops dashboard too, but not the table, is that right? and is that how i'll adjust it to suit when i do finally work out the timing?

[andy198712]

also i'm taking power from the generator pos pole and grounding no the engine at either the gen stand bolts or the clamp for the gen.

that power source should be fine right?

[Dive!Dive!]

Andy
Do you have degree markings on your pulley ? If so, just use the light you have borrowed. Just set the light to zero, and read the advance on the pulley - if you have locked the ecu at say 15, you should read 15 on the pulley. If not adjust the trim in the ecu. Then you are done. If you are getting scatter, that's another issue.
Steve

[andy198712]

it reads solid like that at idle but when i bring up the revs it scatters, but the car runs really well, so i think its timing light related

but i can trim it off the idle speed like you say with the advance set all at one figure

[andy198712]

So!
borrowed a Gunson xenon timing light off a friend and set the dial to 0, set every cell in the ECU to 15 and it was reading in the low 20's....

went to the TRIM section in spark setting on TS and noticed it was at 5 (should have been at 0 ) put this to 0 and still a little off... ended up with -2 in the trim and the pulley was showing 15, same as the ECU map.... happy

so really my DIY trigger thing was only 2 degrees off which isn't bad!

one thing i do notice is the carb is way too small which i knew already as i don't get 100kpa at WOT, more like 90, fading down to 80 as the rev increase at WOT so my map looks a little tame but its right for the engine at the moment till i get the ITB's on there!

i'll get a picture up soon of the map now

no wonder it was pinging at first if i was 7 degrees off!

[andy198712]

so i quickly knocked up this map once i knew the ECU was doing what it thought it was.

runs better, the map looks a little weird near the top, bare in mind WOT with that SMALL carb goes from about 90kpa at 2krpm down to about 80kpa ish at 5500rpm ish...

but its defiantly stronger in the mid rang RPM as i found today as it was spinning up when opening it up in 1st in the wet, where it wasn't before thought my clutch had gone!

i think i can add a little more in the light cruise area of about 2krpm where i normally cruise around small roads and town ect

But again its all just till i fit the 911 cooling and ITB's really, still have to bend up a return line, and barring a bit of wiring and clamping rubber to hard line i'm pretty much done for the car, just a few finishing touches to the ITB's like cable mount and trim of excess metal ect.

always takes longer then we plan!

[Steve Arndt]

If your map is dropping after torque peak at higher RPMs like you said, then you can add more timing in that area (in general).

[Piledriver]

Unless you are running squishies or something your timing is pretty retarded most everywhere.
maybe 30-32 at pk tq rising to 34 at redline at 100 KPA... and 45-50 at ~50 KPA, with slightly more in the lower bins.

More initial will liven up the part throttle low rpm areas, esp with a big cam.

Don't set your idle fuel or timing in the main VE/spark tables, use the idle VE, idle timing, and idle advance features (3 separate features).

You can have a LOT more timing in the main VE table for when you tip in, makes a huge difference.

Cam/compression ratio/deck/fuel used?

[andy198712]

Once it got up to temp of high 50'c on the oil filter canister, it started to ping just over 3000 RPM at load

BUT it was about 13.8-14:1 AFR so thinking thats the issue...?? going to drop that section where it hits 30 down to 28 and see how it goes.

T1, 86B cam, 9.3:1 comp, 1mm deck, using premium fuel which is 98-99 RON in the UK, which is same as your premium i'd guess?

Seems an engine is most likely to ping at 14:1 apparently so i read... and mine is right there, which isn't that too lean??

its a solex 34 pict 3 with no venturi, i want to say a 160 main jet but i'll check

[andy198712]

its bugging the poo out of me too, how far should the spark plug pert rude into the head too? should it be flush? or is it ok for the smooth non threaded part to poke in too?

this is the only pic i can find

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/ ... A2E543.jpg

[Steve Arndt]

You want it flush without threads showing. The threads will get carbon deposits and make removal a bitch later. Plus a potential hot spot for pre ignition.

Different thickness washers (spark plug indexing washer kit) are available if you care. It isn't that big of a deal in a detuned street engine.

[andy198712]

[Piledriver]

That's OK, but at the limit, any more there would be threads showing, a no-no either way.
(can be too far out as well)

Oil temperature and CHT have very little relationship.
CHT can go up/down 50F in seconds. oil, not so much.

As long as the carb is on there and you have no AFR target control, keep the advance down at WOT.
You can still crank it up as needed everywhere else.

Not much point tuning the carb if you have a set of itbs going on soon.
That carb will have a hard time keeping up with a 2210.
Its almost a surprise it idles OK with an 86B.