Stock German fuel injected 1600 convert to microsquirt

[eserv]

Hi Guys!
I've been lurking for a few years here as I collect together the parts to convert my engine to Fuel injection.
First of all, what I have!
I built an "oxyboxer" last year using a 1.9 Vanagon block, crankshaft, camshaft and hydraulic lifters, all mated to cylinders, pistons and heads from a 1975 fuel injected beetle engine. I used the fuel injection fan shroud and mounted oil cooler in the stock location. the oil cooler is fed from a thermostatically controlled filter adapter . This engine is running for the past year in my MGTD replica mounted on a 1970 beetle chassis with a34PICT carb and the original 1975 distributor. ( runs very well too!) I bought a microsquirt kit a few years ago and have collected together the parts I need to move this machine into this century!
Is the german plenam worth using or would I be better to just adapt the throttle body to a regular type manifold? I want to use the german steel end pieces because the injectors mount easily into them . Is there a good tune available that would "just work" with my combination? I'm wanting to use a wasted spark with a trigger wheel from Mario and a Volkswagen coil with integral igniter, also using the injectors from the 1.9 vanagon at least till I get it running. the microsquirt came with a coolant temp and ambient air temp sender and a narrow band O2 sensor. I have a GM map sensor and a TPS from a snowmobile already adapted to the Volkswagen throttle body.

I am also building another oxyboxer with a 92mm bore and 2.1 crankshaft (will be a little over 2 liters) 040 stock vw heads . what cam should I use in it for a van? I'd like to keep the hydraulic lifters.

[Clonebug]

Hi Eserv,

Welcome to the forum.....

I used the stock German plenum for one season but had issues with a sticky throttle that I could never seem to correct.
I ended up building my own intake out of steel tubing the same size as my CB Performance FI intake endpieces. I think it was 1 3/4 inch tubing going across. That made it so I just needed a standard straight coupler instead of a stepped one.

I'm not sure with the stock steel endpieces but I don't think they will accept a standard Bosch injector and fuel rail. Unfortunately CBP doesn't make the stock style FI endpieces anymore. All that is available is the hi-flow ones at almost double the price. They have a larger inlet and there is not enough clearance under the alternator without clearancing that side for a matching tube.

PhotoBucket is being a little b**ch as of late and won't let me copy and paste "IMG" tags.......

Here is a link to the page where I built my own intake.....use whatever you want from it.

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... start=1050

[Jadewombat]

Unless budget is a huge concern, I suggest just getting the Mexi-bug end castings, manifold, alternator stand, etc. The german mid-70s end castings are pretty restrictive and the Mexi-ones accept most Bosch injectors with the correct o-rings. You'd already have the TPS and intake sensor ready to go also. This is the route I went on my bus and used an airbox from a Volvo and some plumbing elbow and PVC pipe.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds ... ?id=519841

For that engine size, 180cc injectors will work well (people all too often go too big on injector size). I suggest tuning fuel or spark initially, but NOT both because of the learning curve involved. You could either switch to wasted spark with the carb. or to fuel injection and keep the mechanical distributor for a while longer. It's up to you, but I don't suggest doing both because you essentially add more variables to the equation. Mario's website has a basic tune. I wound up buying the full version of Tuner Studio because I got tired of guessing at the correct settings and just used auto-tune setting in TS to get it close to where it needed to be.