68 baja build

[bikesndbugs]

Welding directly to the beam tubes in that area can cause trouble with the bearings we recently discussed. I see absolutely NO reason to worry about getting a good weld to the stock towers other than if they were way rusty.

What do you mean "my tubes dont stick out as far so mounting where you did would be hard. " ???

That photobucket link isn't working.

Screenshot 2017-06-21 at 11.06.06 PM.png

that was the photo and so if i flatten the towers out maybe plate them a bit or hammer them flat then tube straight to them?
then the support tube could be welded as its not in the bearing area correct.

would 1inch 095 wall or 1.5 inch095 be a better choice. in thinking the 1 inch.

update on the hook and rod it appears they will work on both https://www.kartek.com/parts/hook-rod-g ... -rods.html
this seems the simplest way. when i pull the beam apart to cylcle the suspension im also adding the spindle beef up kit.

Sorry I get confusing occasionally but it makes sense now Thank you.
Totally get it. And when I said flatten out I meant as you said add some bar stock.

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[bikesndbugs]

Welding directly to the beam tubes in that area can cause trouble with the bearings we recently discussed. I see absolutely NO reason to worry about getting a good weld to the stock towers other than if they were way rusty.

What do you mean "my tubes dont stick out as far so mounting where you did would be hard. " ???

That photobucket link isn't working.

Screenshot 2017-06-21 at 11.06.06 PM.png

that was the photo and so if i flatten the towers out maybe plate them a bit or hammer them flat then tube straight to them?
then the support tube could be welded as its not in the bearing area correct.

would 1inch 095 wall or 1.5 inch095 be a better choice. in thinking the 1 inch.

update on the hook and rod it appears they will work on both https://www.kartek.com/parts/hook-rod-g ... -rods.html
this seems the simplest way. when i pull the beam apart to cylcle the suspension im also adding the spindle beef up kit.

Sorry I get confusing occasionally but it makes sense now Thank you.
Totally get it. And when I said flatten out I meant as you said add some bar stock.

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[bikesndbugs]

Screenshot 2017-06-21 at 1.58.58 PM.png

what do you think of shock mounts like that made of tube?
i have 1 inch 095 wall and 1.5 inch 095 wall

so i was discussing this design with a few people and alot are telling me it wont work with .095 wall. and that i should go buy some .120 for that. what do you guys think?
my friend was telling me just to get the plate towers but i dont wanna have to weld those on as its right on the bearing surface area.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Travis, I think it ends up being just where you start and stop (or what causes you to stop) on your driving.

If you are worried about the bearing then there are always sleeves which some like and some don't but if you are launching off something like the Grand Canyon then even 1/8"th wall DOM (or Damn! ) won't help.

[bikesndbugs]

Travis, I think it ends up being just where you start and stop (or what causes you to stop) on your driving.

If you are worried about the bearing then there are always sleeves which some like and some don't but if you are launching off something like the Grand Canyon then even 1/8"th wall DOM (or Damn! ) won't help.

I was thinking that is do 095 wall and if I have an issue then rebuild them stronger


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[Ol'fogasaurus]

I wasn'trying to be factious as much as building to use. Many people get by with the conversion to longer travel shock towers even on more that easy off-roading but you also have to remember that the shocks you use are part if the mix. If you use wimpy shocks, especially with no stops you are going to put a lot of work on the shock towers.

Adjust accordingly!

[bikesndbugs]

so got a job i start tomorrow good hours its close im mig welding but getting paid well.

i might just g buy plate towers itll be easier. or make some if thats a good idea.


question on the dash bar. should i go under or over the dash
im thinking both over with 1 and a half inch then put the 1 inch under to mount the wheel to.

[chuckput]

Mine is below the dash. For what it's worth.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Congrats on the job Travis. Your are now on your way through life!

About the bar, my opinion the steering shaft should attach to it being the strongest part of your car and it is attached to the cage. With thinking you could working with it either high or low as long as low doesn't block leg travel .

My situation is different than your but for thought this is the reasoning I am going the way I am. On mine I am going to put it up higher above or even with but slightly to the rear of the dash. I will then attach the steering to it using a drop connection.

I am also going to attach the important gauges to it in bezels rather than the dash. This is so I can read them while driving without having to look down to see them. This idea allowed me to get home when my engine started to go south on me when out on the dunes. I will also have duplicate idiot lights as a just-in-case but they, such as the oil pressure gauge, will tell you of problems before the idiot light does assuming you keep an eye on them. Another thing is you aren't looking through the spojkes of your steering wheel nor are your hands and arms busy and blocking your vision.

Not everyone thinks this way and still prefer gauges in the dash. So... for what it is worth.

Lee

[bikesndbugs]

I'm trying to do the simplest way I was thinking just a u bolt over the stock column

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

Years ago I knew of several guys get leg damage done when thrown about in a wreck this is why I mentioned not using a low bar for more than one reason.

I would not use a "U" bolt as it can loosen, stretch and slip on you. Things, like bolts, can stretch under heavy loading then slide around. This is a safety item as it not only steers the car but also is something you hold onto during an accident.

Again, be safe!

Lee

[bikesndbugs]

Did the top in 1 1/2 yesterday I might. Do one under also I'm not sure yet


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[Ol'fogasaurus]

When sitting in a 4 point harness you are held in place. Add the submarine strap you are somewhat kept from sliding out of the harness by going under the straps. Legally, there was one harness that was DOT OK'd but very complicated and expensive. I did a search a bit ago and I am not sure that it is even available anymore.

Racers use arm straps to keep their arms flailing about in a crash or rollover but the legs are free to go where they can and sometimes can't.

We, in the sand, now usually have the bottoms of the tubes in roll cages (we use this formula cause of a bad accident where the guy became a paraplegic when the rails of the cage dug into the soft sand during a slow roll and his head came into violent contact with the sand) ~4 above the head; I usually have this dimension taken with my helmet on as I don't have a neck restraint to protect it. This is because the body is supposedly able to stretch some (the claim was with all the joints it could stretch up to an inch) in a violent accident.

[dustymojave]

A crotch strap" is NOT an anti-submarine belt!!!!!!!

If used that way, you won't care about the damage that might have been done if you slid under the lap belt without it. The ENTIRE point of a crotch belt in a 5-point belt set is to keep the shoulder straps form pulling the lap belt up into your belly. NASCAR started requiring crotch belts, changing 4-point to 5-point belts after the death of Fireball Roberts. He was killed by internal injuries from his lap belt slipping up into his belly.

The lap belt is to hold your hips into the seat. The shoulder belts are to keep your torso from flopping forward (NOT to stop you from moving upward). The crotch belt as described above is to keep the lap belt in the lap.

Soft sand is one reason to use a roof panel of at least 1/16" thick 6061 T6. Shade is kinda nice too. And so is keeping your hands inside the cage. Desert offroad racers started requiring roof panels and window nets after a pre-runner crash at Jean Nevada where the guys were going the wrong way on the race course and hit the steep back side of a manufactured jump going the wrong way and flipped. Both lost both arms near the elbows when they got their arms between the cage and terra firma. All this is no issue in a full roof Baja Bug. But still don't grab the roll cage when going over unless you like to lose fingers and/or hands.

The human body can stretch QUITE A LOT and nylon competition belts can stretch up to 1/3 of their working length in a crash. A friend of mine who is obsessive about tight belts in his race cars was photographed while flipping his sprint car at Ascot. Most of his helmet was outside of the roll cage. Even though there was about 4" above his helmet when driving.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"A crotch strap" is NOT an anti-submarine belt!!!!!!!

If used that way, you won't care about the damage that might have been done if you slid under the lap belt without it. The ENTIRE point of a crotch belt in a 5-point belt set is to keep the shoulder straps form pulling the lap belt up into your belly. NASCAR started requiring crotch belts, changing 4-point to 5-point belts after the death of Fireball Roberts. He was killed by internal injuries from his lap belt slipping up into his belly."

Remember I am not that young and I have been calling it that long before the (proper) change or terms came along and the reason for it.

Back when I was young and was around guys who were racing "jalopies", "California Uprights" and other "roundy-round" open wheel dirt track stuff as well as some of the early days of drag racing the "dirt/open wheel guys" did require the addition of the steel on top of the cage until one accident where the plate tore loose in a violent "climb over the other guys wheel" wrecks an somehow decapitated the driver (I don't remember the whole story now as it was too long ago but as I remember it was someone I slightly knew) but that is one of the reasons, besides adding weight up high, that I don't think of the top piece but you are right, it should do a lot to stop the cage from burying itself in the sand. Other than the "sand cars" (and I am not sure of that but they are the long travel cars and are probably driven more like a race car) or CWB's rig, I don't remember seeing a rail with the top covered. The open top I have heard as being referred to an emergency escape route (around here I don't remember seeing someone run an "X" in the top of the cage as the speeds are not all that great [55 max but in the few places you can run that fast the areas so busy you don't want to] but "stuff" does happen. Racing is a totally different thing).

I apologize for the miss-use of terms and advice.

You did cover the reasoning for my point though and that was limbs, neck and other things potentially flopping around because of various, not quite as much fun, riding conditions. One of several reasons my cage has the cross-bar up higher. My cage builder also built cages for circle racing (I was going to use another slang term but thought better of it before I wrote it down) and sand rails for the businesses around the sand that rented them for the visitors to either rent to ride the dunes or took people out on the dunes in them.