Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I got caught in biased thinking when I saw a pix in (I thought it was in the last few pages of Chads build but can't find it to post) some brackets in a kit and . Something I am not proud of .

I got the ends on the new spreader bar welded closed then marked it up pretty well to where the brackets will be (and double checked it) then started thinking about the new brackets to connect the Truss/Kaffer bar to the spreader bar. On the last ones I made are part the bias which is now obvious to me. I was going to change the brackets but got into the "put-em-on fever" and never got around to it.

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In top 1 X 3 (large radius tube) I marked the angle of the Truss/Kaffer bar mount; I then added to two outside lines for the width of the bracket and marked the two ends based on the radius OML. It came out to 2 3/4" long.

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I then marked the angle with the back leg 2 3/4" up and drew a 45° angle. I then marked the two limits of the CL of the hole.

The first bias I had was that you use the 1" across material to weld it to the spreader... wrong! You don't have to! You can do it but you don't have to.

The second thing was that I was going to put a strong back on the upper side of the bracket which is not being used. Answer was... why not just rotate the bracket and weld the legs to the stretcher bar and use the cross material for the additional support. With the big radius I was having problems getting a good weld inside of the join so this is solving two problems... I think.

This material is thicker than the previous material so I don't think I will need to add the washers on the outside as doublers but I still think there will be at least one washer needed in the inside to act as a shim so the spherical rod end won't slide around because I'm not sure you will be able squeeze things together quite as tight.

Anyway, I will know more about it later in the day... I hope.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I got the mounts done but what I posted was not a good thing. The idea was correct but the one vertical wall had to be cut to 82 1/2° rather than 90°. The look is weird but there might be some mods to the top after I get the holes drilled and do a fit check. No pix until the holes are drilled then, good or bad, you will get pix.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I got some garage time so the holes got bored (literal and actual).

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I put the spherical rod end in and discovered that I was right; I can take some "meat" off the top. The line is ~1 1/2" up from the bottom and it will still give me what I think it enough meat for the push/pull loading. The bad part was I thought the tubes join seam was going to be in the way but it just misses. I dressed it a bit with a file just-in-case; not flat to the surface but even, not "hilly", now.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I did some trimming down today then clamped the mounts in place to see what it will look like.

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As far as the boxing mounts go it is something I don't wanna do due; it was mainly getting to the areas needed to be welded but I will have to do it I think. I'm not sure I have ever bottomed out before even on a hard compression hit. I still have the option of using the V6 I built tied to an 091 (will require different axles) so I think I will go ahead an box the towers since I did all the work.

There were two hang-ups:

!) The getting of the pan back up on the rotisserie (I even had parts of it out of the shed) so I could rotate the pan to get to the hard to get to areas and weld there.

2) It was the mount's bolt's length needed as I would need almost 2" more in length (with the engine mount left in place. I couldn't get any bolts long enough locally w/o having to buy a whole box of them... $$$$. Suddenly this AM it came to (silly) me: I don't really need to have the engine mount on so I could pull the tranny and mount then the rotisserie was back to being no big deal .

The big drawback with not leaving the trans mount in place itself again was two-fold:

1) The truss bars to the trans mount.

2) Building the fuel tank mounts and continuing on necessitated by putting the body back on the pan as they would go on both the spreader bar and the trans mount... or so planned.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Having problems posting again. In the middle of a post you are somewhere else and you may or may not be able to post or type, pictures deleted or moved around especially if you do a preview and several other weird things are also happening.

Surgery tomorrow so I am not sure when I will be able to work on the buggy but if I survive then I will still visit STF.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I survived but not sewn up but glued together. In at 9:30 back home by !:00 . Things have sure changed over the years.

Very limited to what I can do for a while so putting the pan back on the rotisserie for welding is off for a while.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Slow news day!

I'm just barely walking around now, still in a lot of pain as the surgery ended up being more than what was thought. One of the drugs does not allow me to drive until a few days after I stop taking it.

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Fore what it is worth, this is the info on bolts that hold the engine mount to the "Pickle Forks"; I need a pair of the stock ones and a pair that are about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" longer in order to put the pan on so I can do the mounts for the fuel tank. Being that the bolts are fine thread I am not sure about how and where to get them. I might be able to get it back on w/o the longer bolt by not putting the mount on when I box the shock mount forging; the mount would probably in the way for the boxing. Still is going to take a long time to get at it due to my lifting and handling weight restrictions.

Even though I can't physically do much I can still walk out and look at things to see if my idea would work or not.

Lee

[Leatherneck]

Hope you get healed up and get the go ahead to throw stuff around again Lee, until then enjoy the time just staring at it.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Hope you get healed up and get the go ahead to throw stuff around again Lee, until then enjoy the time just staring at it.

Tee-Heee, Tee-Heee.... "OOCHIE OUCH"! (not too much of a laugh either)

Got a lot of swelling with up to 6 1/2 weeks of no heavy stuff which translates to something like 14#s. Did you know they don't always sew you up now days but glue you together?

[Leatherneck]

Heal well and fast Lee.

[dustymojave]

Hope you get healed up and get the go ahead to throw stuff around again Lee, until then enjoy the time just staring at it.

Tee-Heee, Tee-Heee.... "OOCHIE OUCH"! (not too much of a laugh either)

Got a lot of swelling with up to 6 1/2 weeks of no heavy stuff which translates to something like 14#s. Did you know they don't always sew you up now days but glue you together?

Proper term is "Cyano-Acrylic" adhesive. Or C-A glue. "Crazy Glue" and all of the other brands it sells under, all relate back to the original which was Eastman 910 adhesive. That was invented for use in surgery. Not for gluing hard hats to I beams to be lifted by a crane. Nor gluing fingernail covers on. Nor gluing your prized bowling trophy back together after the wife threw it at you and hit the TV instead. Or any of the million + 1 other uses for C-A glue. Gluing a human body back together after surgery or injury. Most folks test it out every now and then unintentionally, gluing their fingers together in the process of gluing something else together. I learned about such things way back when I was a punk kid working in a plastics research lab and wound up doing the initial test batches for the original acrylic finger nails. My PhD in Chemistry boss had a friend who was an LA Cop who owned a chain of beauty salons, including one in Beverly Hills. My boss figured out the chemistry and I did all the mixing and testing. Lots of messing around with acrylic monomers and poly methacrylate and methyl methacrylate and fillers and anti-oxidants and anti fungals and such.

I did the cut open belly dance a couple of years ago, so you have my empathy Lee. Ain't no fun. It takes years for the several weeks to pass by until you can start doing things again.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Thanks for the info Dusty.

I think he used a couple of tire irons to lift the skin for the mesh then a calking gun to glue it shut. He laid a nice welding style bead but not the "stack of nickels" we've been talking about here.

Not a fun surgery this time for sure.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

This came up from another post but so as not to mess that string up I am going to post it here.

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This is the trailing arm pivot in an IRS setup. Dusty and I were talking about it off-line a while back and I was going to post it in the string that brought the subject up but have since forgotten where that was. The first picture was an accidental shot that I wish I had taken before paint was added.

Notice that the pivot is a two part setup with one part with threads coming in from the inside of the "pickle fork" trans mount and the pivot piece come in from the outside. Dusty said it is not welded in place but they are mutually held in place... a pressed together fit.

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When the bolt is inserted the threaded part is further stretched and the bolt gives body to the whole assembly. I'm not sure but I would suspect that threading in and threading out of the bolt will wear the threads. Add to that over tightening is going to have the potential of doing damage also.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I'm finally able to do some things after surgery but it is still limited. Will know more tomorrow.

I did a post on my metal band saw yesterday as I had been able to slide it out and change the platen, something the newer versions apparently don't have now. Because I didn't think the old bending foot would allow me to bend to 90°I decided to make a new one. Because of some close calls when cutting slots "to depth" when using the band saw in the vertiacal position I started to make a new jig to use when making the slots for attaching the foot to the tube that fits the press foot for my 20-ton press. The new tool also has a thicker foot on it.

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For the cutting jig this is what I started with, a length of 1 X 4 rectangular tube. The internal radius was close enough to the radius of the 5" long by 1 1//2" by 3/8"piece of flat stock I was going to use for the blade of the press so it wouldn't ride on the radius but lay flat. I cut the top of the rectangular tube off by cutting the side off just below the radius and the bottom was cut just short of the radius to get...

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I then used a standard width sharpie to draw a vertical line with a stop line on the angle bracket.

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I cut the slot on both sides of the line to give myself some "wiggle room" when doing the dainty cutting.

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This is what the clamped up foot looked like when the cutting of the slot was made. My fingers were well out of the way and I had more control of what I was doing; e.g., better control of pressure used and direction. Since the tube it is being joined to is something like 1/8th inch I had to make two cuts per slot then and another cut to remove the center. I checked centering of the tube on the blade and got lucky; it is within 0.01.

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I have to form the blade but I have to see the Dr. to know what if/what my restriction are tomorrow before any more work can be done.

[bajaherbie]

Growing up my dad had a small electric hacksaw that used regular sized blades. It pivoted at the back and had a small weight on the handle. The motor had a plate with an arm that pushed and pulled the frame and blade. It was dangerous as all heck, no safety shields anywhere!

We made all kinds of things for the farm and hobbies! Mini bikes,car models, bikes, etc.

One day, it bound up, exploded and shattered in a dozen pieces! My old man didn't replace it either!



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