***Leathernecks rail ***

[GoMopar440]

Where did you find a CV grease tube for your grease gun?

[BajaBug222]

That's a pretty slick setup for greasing the CV's.

[bajaherbie]

I think he drilled/tapped the lexan and installed grease zerks.

[Leatherneck]

Where did you find a CV grease tube for your grease gun?

I use Caterpillar Desert Gold on everything grease on the buggy. Real good stuff.

I think he drilled/tapped the lexan and installed grease zerks.

exactly what I did. Found out after one Zerk came out it worked better so the grease could after filling everything up come out that vacant hole. Has to go somewhere right?

[Leatherneck]

Went with the SoCalBaja guys Mojave Trail run. Good time for sure. Lots of trails lots of Bench racing and working on off road rides. Here is a video of one of them, had a lot of Tail hop, to much as this last one was lucky that there wasn't to much of a side hop. What can I do to keep the tail down in the rough stuff?



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7W_0Af10tc

[madmitch]

Slow the rebound down David

[Leatherneck]

Slow the rebound down David

Thanks Mitch, you missed a good one. I added preload for the extra weight, heavier lower and less preload you think?

[TimS]

Revolving those is pretty easy. I agree more rebound control needed.

[no1clyde]

I also agree, thicken up some of or all of the rebound shims. These are easy to work on and well built.

Ed

[Leatherneck]

Guys, I appreciate the info. Where is a good place to find out about adding the shims? I need to get educated on this.

[TimS]

Well, cost step would be to see what you have. Did they come with a build sheet? If measure shims and compare to fix chart. Rebound should be single stage valving and probably a standard shim stack. Then order a stiffer shim pack. That is the easiest way.. you could play with custom valving and replacing single shims, but I'd stick with the preplanned shim pack.

[TimS]

When we had the shocks built, we stated a 150/300 spring rate. Has that changed?

Another thing to think about is they are only 2" shocks. Are they being overheated? What are the temps like? If your springs are weak you could overheat sooner, but you would have to revalve anyway.

You should have a flutter stack built off a standard shim pack, in other words, on the compression side you should have a little shim with a spacer, then a standard stack. On the rebound you should be standard. I don't think a rate plate would help you on the rebound side, but Ed can chim in on that. Maybe with two stage springs you need a little rate control when comming off a hard bump. I don't know.

Only way to know what you have is take it apart and see. Drill a 2" hole in a 2x4 so you can put shock in vise, then remove allen setscrew and remove cover. Remove retaining ring and carefully pop out top. Keep oil in shock unless planning on changing it. You may want some spare oil to refill the shock to max or you may have enough room in your reservoir to push a little more oil into the shock. Don't get too wild with that procedure though. Rebound pack is the one on the distal end of the shaft.

Hope it helps. The first time I rebuilt a shock it took me 15 minutes. Be sure to get the air out on reassemble. Crazy fast. Waiting on parts could be a challenge, but you may find a store with in stock shims close to you.

[no1clyde]

If you are going to take then apart the first thing you need to do is release the nitrogen pressure from the resevior and leave the shrader valve out until done, do this before removing the retaining ring. In the SAW info they say a complete stack the next thickness bigger is a 10% increase in damping so I think I would try the next thicker stack and find a place in your riding area that makes it do that and see if it fells any better. Also it is best if you have a zero loss nitrogen chuck for refilling the nitrogen but you can come close without one. Also I use the lightest shock oil I can get and valve to that, I do that so as the oil gets hotter it changes less because it is already so thin. Being a motorcycle guy I use motorcycle shock oil, it is very good shock oil and comes in different weights. Also in the SAW info there is a wright up on taking them apart so if Fox does not have that check that one out but I bet they all have something like that.

Ed

[DeMinimis]

First mistake: Directing us to his youtube page. Second mistake: Allowing comments.

[Leatherneck]

When we had the shocks built, we stated a 150/300 spring rate. Has that changed?

Another thing to think about is they are only 2" shocks. Are they being overheated? What are the temps like? If your springs are weak you could overheat sooner, but you would have to revalve anyway.

You should have a flutter stack built off a standard shim pack, in other words, on the compression side you should have a little shim with a spacer, then a standard stack. On the rebound you should be standard. I don't think a rate plate would help you on the rebound side, but Ed can chim in on that. Maybe with two stage springs you need a little rate control when comming off a hard bump. I don't know.

Only way to know what you have is take it apart and see. Drill a 2" hole in a 2x4 so you can put shock in vise, then remove allen setscrew and remove cover. Remove retaining ring and carefully pop out top. Keep oil in shock unless planning on changing it. You may want some spare oil to refill the shock to max or you may have enough room in your reservoir to push a little more oil into the shock. Don't get too wild with that procedure though. Rebound pack is the one on the distal end of the shaft.

Hope it helps. The first time I rebuilt a shock it took me 15 minutes. Be sure to get the air out on reassemble. Crazy fast. Waiting on parts could be a challenge, but you may find a store with in stock shims close to you.

I really appreciate the info. TIm, I checked on heat, you can grab them and not get to hot, it starts from the get go not after on the trail so that leads me to think it is what you guys are saying the valving problem. I'll give this a shot, I need the experience. I will let you know what I do on this. Thanks again guys.

Wade, comments haven't been a problem I worry about. lol have at it.