ugh, not again already

[Piledriver]

I was referring to a spare in the back of the side pods, as previously discussed.
You need to carry a spare anyway, looked like a "free" spot, and down ~low.

You already have a spot for firewood

[cbeck]

My bender buddy came by last night and threatened to take away my welder.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Room for a spare//armrest?

Have to have room for a cup holder, oh and don't forget the USB charger and room for firewood, might as well put a hitch on it. .

The USB charger, although it sounds silly, may not be a bad idea for emergencies anyway. Unless you are in one of those areas where there towers are not close enough to use one... it just might be a good idea.

[cbeck]

For 12 vdc I have a outlet[plug] with alligator clips to hook to battery.Phone charger has a usb on it. Had my parade rained on today. Geico will no longer insure it. The hartford reported my vin to carfax calling it totaled, won't insure it because it is rebuilt. Guess I will submit the proper paperwork to the state for a 2017 spec con title as a new build. Did it once, wasn't too bad the first time.

[Leatherneck]

Bummer on the Title setback, at least this way you know it is what it is not looking like a rail but titled as a car which for the wrong Cop could lead to a big hassle. I have three USB chargers in my rail, one for the Ipad with MotionX one for the GPS receiver and one for my phone.

[cbeck]

It would be another special construction dune buggy (spec dune) like I currently have with a newer year and new vin. So here I go thinking again. My current dash bugs me. I would love to bend a piece of 1" and make a dash about 3" tall, go from pass grab bar towards driver while not being blocked by the steering wheel, angled for good line of sight, under the current dash bar. I just am not sure how to enclose the back/bottom of dash with the caveman tools I posess. I would think the back (facing forward) would need to be removable to acces wiring/fuse block.

[cbeck]

Right side nerf done.

[cbeck]

Got the left nerf, flag pole mount, bu lite tabs, and power disconnect done. Skid plate almost looks like it should be there.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Recomdation: from the pix it looks like you might have some sharp corners; if those are squared internal corners you now have stress risers that can cause cracks to appear.

To fix it, put a radii in the corners by drilling a hole with a intersection with a minimum radius that is about 2X the thickness of the plate... or more to remove the square corner.

Lee

[cbeck]

Thanks for the advice Lee, but this time I am going to let it ride. I was tickled I did not have to spend 2 bills for another sheet of al. The 4x4 piece for the bed floor was 120. I think my budget was blown a couple of k ago and still need front shocks and rear torsion bars.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

If you are going to bend the flanges to match the angles of the tubes then keep an eye on those internal corners. You may be OK but you may not either. If was my job to draw flat patterns for this kind of thing for many years.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

PM

[cbeck]

Thanks for the tutorial,lee. Should come in handy in a winter or 2. I want to do a cool dash sooner than later. Now I need to see if jimmy hoffa has a aluminum hot glue gun. He is currently moving all his neat stuff into a chenowth frame. We are both hoping to be done by mid summer.

[jimmyhoffa]

I'm here! Unfortunately, no aluminum squirt gun. I really gotta get a spool gun for my setup. However, I do have a dash that won't fit in this cutout, even if I was leaving it like that.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o228 ... pxypa0.jpg

It looks like this:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o228 ... ol8kst.jpg

I'm sure we can work a deal you can't refuse...

(sorry I tried everything to post pictures- no beans. I just get the "unable to determine the size of the image" message.)

[Leatherneck]

What size are your pics, 800x600 is max 640x480 is a good size. You can set you photobucket acct to auto resize.