68 baja build

[Volksmeister]

I ran the 235/75-15 and 31 10.50 combo for a long time. Even as a daily driver with a stupid small steering wheel, steering wasn't a problem. The front end is light enough that it works just fine. Even in the dirt, mud or whatever, it's functional. I had the 235s on 6" wide steel wagon wheels with quite a bit of off set. Your front wheels look to have less off set. That makes steering easier.

[Volksmeister]

Oh, and the 235 is a decent spare. Works well enough on the rear to get you home/out of the trail!

[bikesndbugs]

I ran the 235/75-15 and 31 10.50 combo for a long time. Even as a daily driver with a stupid small steering wheel, steering wasn't a problem. The front end is light enough that it works just fine. Even in the dirt, mud or whatever, it's functional. I had the 235s on 6" wide steel wagon wheels with quite a bit of off set. Your front wheels look to have less off set. That makes steering easier.

im putting some with a bit more offset on just to keep from rubbing the 215 would be alot nicer to store but the 235 would be a better all around fit tire.

[Volksmeister]

Do it and don't look back!

[dustymojave]

Con-grad-you-lations on your graduation. With honors, IIRC. Good JOB!

Lots of good advice above from Lee.

Lots of Class 11 racers and wannabes run 235s all around. I recommend on 4"-5" rims. I'm actually planning on the next fronts on my Baja to be 215-75s down from 7.00-15s. Bigger front tires work well on bigger Bajas, like 5-Opens with wider beams and longer wheelbase. I'm not too fond of big tires on a relatively stock Baja. A larger tire requires more shock to get the same level of control. A bigger tire is bouncier. It can apply more leverage to your suspension components. OTOH, Taller tires roll over obstacles more easily.

[bikesndbugs]

Con-grad-you-lations on your graduation. With honors, IIRC. Good JOB!

Lots of good advice above from Lee.

Lots of Class 11 racers and wannabes run 235s all around. I recommend on 4"-5" rims. I'm actually planning on the next fronts on my Baja to be 215-75s down from 7.00-15s. Bigger front tires work well on bigger Bajas, like 5-Opens with wider beams and longer wheelbase. I'm not too fond of big tires on a relatively stock Baja. A larger tire requires more shock to get the same level of control. A bigger tire is bouncier. It can apply more leverage to your suspension components. OTOH, Taller tires roll over obstacles more easily.

correct with honors.

i think the fronts rims i have are 6 and the rears are 8s or 9s. the 215 75 is nice in the front just matched with the 31 looks really small id like the 7.00-15 but i dont have those yet. and my front shock ratio will be 1 to 1 so the more contol is there. Im worried about the width of the 235 more than height.

Im really trying to get this done as the trucks mpg hurts my wallet. and i just miss the bug. gonna keep a lookout for some thinner wheels up front with offset to sit the front out wider also.
Im considering leaving the panhead on just to get it done quicker then do the rest later. maybe get a few tubes a weekend done. as panhead to no panhead is approximately a 4 to 6 tube difference. and i can do straight tubes at my house id have to tig in the tubes but i dont mind.

still havent found a job and the leg is doing better im walking without the cane now.

[dustymojave]

Cutting off the panhead can be done in a few minutes with a "gas wrench" (cutting torch). Gotta be careful of the gas line.

[bikesndbugs]

Cutting off the panhead can be done in a few minutes with a "gas wrench" (cutting torch). Gotta be careful of the gas line.

Its not that cutting it will take time its the extra added tubes. but its only a few so shouldnt be too bad

[bikesndbugs]

Cutting off the panhead can be done in a few minutes with a "gas wrench" (cutting torch). Gotta be careful of the gas line.

Its not that cutting it will take time its the extra added tubes. but its only a few so shouldnt be too bad

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Cutting off the panhead can be done in a few minutes with a "gas wrench" (cutting torch). Gotta be careful of the gas line.

Its not that cutting it will take time its the extra added tubes. but its only a few so shouldnt be too bad

Another post disappeared.

Part of what the missing post was about you just touched on. Cross-tubing (an "X") will be necessary or you can (also) put a shear plate or two in to distribute those loads around, especially loads that come in at angles not from straight ahead.

Shear plates are like the bottom sheet of the frame head. Flat stock, that had been formed, strengthens the normally weak flat sheet. Stiffening flanges (bent up or down sides with a straight portion extending past the bend) help but its the introduction of beading (look at the pan's floor) which uses formed, not rolled in, "beads" that is going to add a lot of strength. Gussets are going to spread loads in the joins at intersections but not as much as the shear plate would.

Some things to think about

[Volksmeister]

235/75 & 31/10.50 combo

6" wide front rims & 8" rears.

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Contrary to popular desert theory, I think wider rims, the recommended width, help keep the tire on the rim when aired down and allows the tire to take it's designed shape and shift less side to side on the rim. I also only really do woods riding, so the extra tire contact with wider rims helps traction.

Front tires rub at full lock and need the inner fender lip beat down. Just about any larger tire rubs.

I hope this helps!

-Levi

[bikesndbugs]

235/75 & 31/10.50 combo

6" wide front rims & 8" rears.

IMG_3824.JPG

IMG_3823.JPG

IMG_3822.JPG

Contrary to popular desert theory, I think wider rims, the recommended width, help keep the tire on the rim when aired down and allows the tire to take it's designed shape and shift less side to side on the rim. I also only really do woods riding, so the extra tire contact with wider rims helps traction.

Front tires rub at full lock and need the inner fender lip beat down. Just about any larger tire rubs.

I hope this helps!

-Levi

It does my front end sits alot higher than yours so I might be run free except when on compression and turning.

And lee that would be a good idea to put sheet metal there and I was just gonna do a flat sheet to keep rocks off my master cylinder but bending it for more strength is a great idea


Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Up to a point that might be true but it is the sidewalls and the tire's bead sealing on the rims that also has to be taken into consideration.

Too wide of rims and with the sidewalls working too much can cause the bead can cost lost sealing power; the same with too narrow of rims. Road race cars are aware of this and off-roading this can also be a problem. The same with tire air pressure too little can/will allow the tire to deflate especially when the tire and rim are not straight above each other. I have both seen this and have had the problem myself.

Too stiff of sidewalls, as I understand it, can be a problem also. The sidewalls play a large part of the tread part of the tire working correctly with the firmament. Stiff/thick sidewalls are good protection off-road like bouncing off rocks and trees but they always aren't the right way in other driving situations. Ever see a car going around a corner but the rear tires are so stiff the back of the car is jumping/bouncing as the turn is made. I have seen this happen with Bajas.

On my buggy changing from 15 X 15" wide rims to 15" X 12" wide rims made such a change in climbing dunes that it was hard to believe. To be fully honest at the same time I went from steel to AL but I don't think that that made as much of a difference as was had.

[bikesndbugs]

Got some more done a pillars and rear gussets cut pics will come

I'm thinking for now ill just space the beam on the panhead as I really need it running again then slowly start adding the cross bracing in the front like 2 tubes at a time on weekends untill I have it done then get the bottom "x" or "v" into the tunnel when I cut the panhead off. Really just need the better mpg as the tundra is not very good.


What's the easiest way to make shock mounts in the front? Thinking about just making a v on the tube that ties into the top of the beam. With a shock mount at the top.
So looking at the front end mounting is gonna be really hard to do. I might have to buy some warrior towers that would also get bumps out of the way. I wanna keep the stock beam as it has herrings rather than bushings


Also as far as seats go I was thinking the tubes from outer runner to tunnel. With sheet metal squares between tube and tunnel. Then angle Iron on top of that for. Mounting the seats. Drill many holes for the seats to mount on so they can be aircraft grade pined for somewhat quick adjustment. Or just the rear and flip them forward.

[bikesndbugs]

Screenshot 2017-06-21 at 1.58.58 PM.png

what do you think of shock mounts like that made of tube?
i have 1 inch 095 wall and 1.5 inch 095 wall