68 baja build
- TimS
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- Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:11 pm
Re: 68 baja build
In my experience, front toe is very forgiving but can be adjusted to driving style. In for quick steer and out for stavility. I shoot for 1/8" toe in but I also have a little negative camber to help it. If I know I will be primarily off road I will give a little more front toe because I like the responsiveness but it will accelerate tire wear.
Rear toe is far more touchy and can effect the feel of your car immesly. If you have positive camber in the rear at ride height, you may need a little more toe in than I do. I shoot for neutral toe as a baseline but it takes me three or four pubic hair sized adjustments and test drives before getting the rear toe dialed. I use a chisel as a witness mark.
I run 20 front and 20 rear all the time from interstate to rocky road but have a lot of extra tire width in the back.
Congrats on test drive.
Rear toe is far more touchy and can effect the feel of your car immesly. If you have positive camber in the rear at ride height, you may need a little more toe in than I do. I shoot for neutral toe as a baseline but it takes me three or four pubic hair sized adjustments and test drives before getting the rear toe dialed. I use a chisel as a witness mark.
I run 20 front and 20 rear all the time from interstate to rocky road but have a lot of extra tire width in the back.
Congrats on test drive.
Don’t ever yield your gift of dream; Your knack for gumption, too. For “It’s the crazy ones that have all the fun," if dreamers yearn to do.
- bikesndbugs
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- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 10:15 am
Re: 68 baja build
So i drove it to the desert it hated the hills git down to 50 on a couple but the drive from san diego to the desert is steep. Got hot on the hills had to stop a couole of times to let it cool. My speedo went out. First it started making a really liych screeching then it started getting shakey then tge needle broke and it stopped working. I think the gear broke. Has done pretty well offroad. Had a couple problems here and there but nothing major.
Next on the to do list will be front bumper skidplates and cooling
Next on the to do list will be front bumper skidplates and cooling
Travis
I spend way to much time on this site
I spend way to much time on this site
- Piledriver
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Re: 68 baja build
Might just be the speedo cable/housing/rust, get the two rubber grommets that go with it as well, cheap and easy to do.
Put some sealant on the rubber bushing for the speedo cable that keeps water out of the bearings etc...
I have use dielectric silicone grease for decades, but some swear by RTV, altho that makes it more or less a one-time use deal.
If that seal lets go, water runs down the speedo cable housing and directly into your LF wheel bearings.
The grommets seem to be unobtanium at any of the big parts chains, so order all 3 bits together.
Put some sealant on the rubber bushing for the speedo cable that keeps water out of the bearings etc...
I have use dielectric silicone grease for decades, but some swear by RTV, altho that makes it more or less a one-time use deal.
If that seal lets go, water runs down the speedo cable housing and directly into your LF wheel bearings.
The grommets seem to be unobtanium at any of the big parts chains, so order all 3 bits together.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- bikesndbugs
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- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 10:15 am
Re: 68 baja build
I think the speedo gear broke on it but ill look into it when i get home tge odometer also doesnt work so i might just buy a new speedo
Got stuck today we were on a ride with jeeps and they went up a hill so i tried it and it popped outa first at the top and i ended up burying it.
Its done great so far im extremely imperessed tomorow i have to drive it home. This way its one big grade the predominatly downhill.
Got stuck today we were on a ride with jeeps and they went up a hill so i tried it and it popped outa first at the top and i ended up burying it.
Its done great so far im extremely imperessed tomorow i have to drive it home. This way its one big grade the predominatly downhill.
Travis
I spend way to much time on this site
I spend way to much time on this site
- Marc
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Re: 68 baja build
Could be the speedo head but my money's still on the cable. The 111 957 801H is about 2" longer than the stock `68 which can be handy on a lifted front. Don't go for the early Super 113 957 801A, though, it's >6" longer.
If you do replace the head, only `68-up have a built-in gas gauge; they added a ⅒-mile wheel to the odo in mid`69. `71/`72 Super also fits Standards.
If you do replace the head, only `68-up have a built-in gas gauge; they added a ⅒-mile wheel to the odo in mid`69. `71/`72 Super also fits Standards.
-
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Re: 68 baja build
If you had a turning brake then either lock the spinning wheel or lightly load up the two handles (assuming you are using two handles) causing the open diff to work both wheels. Lightly putting your foot on the brake pedal can cause the same reaction; this works with single handle turning also.
Lee
Lee
- bikesndbugs
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Re: 68 baja build
I put the super beetle cable on and it works thats what i had on the trip down. Im gonna pull the speedo apart maybe just to look and check on the internals see whats up on it
As far as getting stuck im aware of the slight braking to get traction but i wouldve gone up if it wouldnt have popped out of first. And i rolled back a bit so when i got back in the throttle it just dug. Lack of experince with a clutch probobly didnt help
As far as getting stuck im aware of the slight braking to get traction but i wouldve gone up if it wouldnt have popped out of first. And i rolled back a bit so when i got back in the throttle it just dug. Lack of experince with a clutch probobly didnt help
Last edited by bikesndbugs on Sun Jan 01, 2017 10:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Travis
I spend way to much time on this site
I spend way to much time on this site
- Piledriver
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Re: 68 baja build
See if the cable spins before ripping the speedo apart... very common failure.
The speedos are comparatively bulletproof.
The speedos are comparatively bulletproof.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- bikesndbugs
- Posts: 637
- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 10:15 am
Re: RE: Re: 68 baja build
Ok its brand newbut ill checkPiledriver wrote:See if the cable spins before ripping the speedo apart... very common failure.
The speedos are comparatively bulletproof.
And it messed up for a while when it was stock and the odom has never worked gives me the feeling its internal.
Travis
I spend way to much time on this site
I spend way to much time on this site
- Marc
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Re: 68 baja build
What are your mounts like? If they're stock-style (not solid) the addition of a padded front strap kit should stop that from happening.bikesndbugs wrote:...it popped outa first at the top and i ended up burying it...
This is the only kind I've used; they can be a real P.I.T.A. to get positioned just right, and the inside "foot" may need clearancing to keep it from hitting the trans case: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=htt ... 3D15.1&f=1
Perhaps this kind is better, let's see what people say: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=htt ... 90.jpg&f=1
- Leatherneck
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Re: 68 baja build
Marc are you saying that the tranny mount or lack of is why it popped out of 1st?
- Marc
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Re: 68 baja build
Very likely that the engine/trans started "hopping" in its mounts, enough to tug it out of gear. Solid mounts will stop this but transmit a lot of noise and offer no forgiveness in case of hard impact - with stock (or urethane) mounts you're less likely to break nosecone or case, the front strap takes the load off of the nosecone & mount as well as holding the front down so it won't yank itself out of gear.Leatherneck wrote:Marc are you saying that the tranny mount or lack of is why it popped out of 1st?
There are padded rear straps too, which'll take upward loads away from the rear mounts and hold things together if they do fail, but those aren't so directly involved with the jumping-out-of-First problem.
Rear straps like this one wrap around the short tubes added around the big framehorn bolts. Depending upon your rear bumper setup things can get crowded around there. The smaller-headed bolts used on `73-up cars have longer shanks if needed. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zDwAAOSwP ... s-l300.jpg
- bikesndbugs
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- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 10:15 am
Re: 68 baja build
I have been meaning to get trans straps the rear will be crowded as my motor cage mounts to my trans horns.
It did great on the ride home went good without issues.
It did great on the ride home went good without issues.
Travis
I spend way to much time on this site
I spend way to much time on this site
- bikesndbugs
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- Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 10:15 am
Re: 68 baja build
So on the way there the motor was getting really hot like oil pressure light would come on and id pull off to the side let it cool and then be on my way. I have a stock non doghouse cooler and was wondering if i could get a full flow oil pump and dump it where the stock cooler dumps it. SO then i could run a filter and external cooler. I just dont wanna split the case to drill it for full flow. Or i could just go doghouse but is that really that much of an improvement.
Travis
I spend way to much time on this site
I spend way to much time on this site
- Marc
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Re: 68 baja build
Stock doghouse setup is pretty good, hard to do much better.
Case can be drilled/tapped for a full-flow return while assembled by providing compressed air into the passage to blow the chips out as you work.
On a dual-relief case you can also replace the pulley-end control valve with an aftermarket return fitting. These eliminate the direct passage to the main galleys so all the oil must go through the cooler all the time, so warmup takes longer; you'll also want to be sure your skidplate will protect it well.
Case can be drilled/tapped for a full-flow return while assembled by providing compressed air into the passage to blow the chips out as you work.
On a dual-relief case you can also replace the pulley-end control valve with an aftermarket return fitting. These eliminate the direct passage to the main galleys so all the oil must go through the cooler all the time, so warmup takes longer; you'll also want to be sure your skidplate will protect it well.