68 baja build

[TimS]

In my experience, front toe is very forgiving but can be adjusted to driving style. In for quick steer and out for stavility. I shoot for 1/8" toe in but I also have a little negative camber to help it. If I know I will be primarily off road I will give a little more front toe because I like the responsiveness but it will accelerate tire wear.

Rear toe is far more touchy and can effect the feel of your car immesly. If you have positive camber in the rear at ride height, you may need a little more toe in than I do. I shoot for neutral toe as a baseline but it takes me three or four pubic hair sized adjustments and test drives before getting the rear toe dialed. I use a chisel as a witness mark.

I run 20 front and 20 rear all the time from interstate to rocky road but have a lot of extra tire width in the back.

Congrats on test drive.

[bikesndbugs]

So i drove it to the desert it hated the hills git down to 50 on a couple but the drive from san diego to the desert is steep. Got hot on the hills had to stop a couole of times to let it cool. My speedo went out. First it started making a really liych screeching then it started getting shakey then tge needle broke and it stopped working. I think the gear broke. Has done pretty well offroad. Had a couple problems here and there but nothing major.


Next on the to do list will be front bumper skidplates and cooling

[Piledriver]

Might just be the speedo cable/housing/rust, get the two rubber grommets that go with it as well, cheap and easy to do.

Put some sealant on the rubber bushing for the speedo cable that keeps water out of the bearings etc...
I have use dielectric silicone grease for decades, but some swear by RTV, altho that makes it more or less a one-time use deal.
If that seal lets go, water runs down the speedo cable housing and directly into your LF wheel bearings.

The grommets seem to be unobtanium at any of the big parts chains, so order all 3 bits together.

[bikesndbugs]

I think the speedo gear broke on it but ill look into it when i get home tge odometer also doesnt work so i might just buy a new speedo
Got stuck today we were on a ride with jeeps and they went up a hill so i tried it and it popped outa first at the top and i ended up burying it.

Its done great so far im extremely imperessed tomorow i have to drive it home. This way its one big grade the predominatly downhill.

[Marc]

Could be the speedo head but my money's still on the cable. The 111 957 801H is about 2" longer than the stock `68 which can be handy on a lifted front. Don't go for the early Super 113 957 801A, though, it's >6" longer.

If you do replace the head, only `68-up have a built-in gas gauge; they added a ⅒-mile wheel to the odo in mid`69. `71/`72 Super also fits Standards.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

If you had a turning brake then either lock the spinning wheel or lightly load up the two handles (assuming you are using two handles) causing the open diff to work both wheels. Lightly putting your foot on the brake pedal can cause the same reaction; this works with single handle turning also.

Lee

[bikesndbugs]

I put the super beetle cable on and it works thats what i had on the trip down. Im gonna pull the speedo apart maybe just to look and check on the internals see whats up on it

As far as getting stuck im aware of the slight braking to get traction but i wouldve gone up if it wouldnt have popped out of first. And i rolled back a bit so when i got back in the throttle it just dug. Lack of experince with a clutch probobly didnt help

[Piledriver]

See if the cable spins before ripping the speedo apart... very common failure.
The speedos are comparatively bulletproof.

[bikesndbugs]

See if the cable spins before ripping the speedo apart... very common failure.
The speedos are comparatively bulletproof.

Ok its brand newbut ill check

And it messed up for a while when it was stock and the odom has never worked gives me the feeling its internal.

[Marc]

...it popped outa first at the top and i ended up burying it...

What are your mounts like? If they're stock-style (not solid) the addition of a padded front strap kit should stop that from happening.
This is the only kind I've used; they can be a real P.I.T.A. to get positioned just right, and the inside "foot" may need clearancing to keep it from hitting the trans case: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=htt ... 3D15.1&f=1

Perhaps this kind is better, let's see what people say: https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=htt ... 90.jpg&f=1

[Leatherneck]

Marc are you saying that the tranny mount or lack of is why it popped out of 1st?

[Marc]

Marc are you saying that the tranny mount or lack of is why it popped out of 1st?

Very likely that the engine/trans started "hopping" in its mounts, enough to tug it out of gear. Solid mounts will stop this but transmit a lot of noise and offer no forgiveness in case of hard impact - with stock (or urethane) mounts you're less likely to break nosecone or case, the front strap takes the load off of the nosecone & mount as well as holding the front down so it won't yank itself out of gear.
There are padded rear straps too, which'll take upward loads away from the rear mounts and hold things together if they do fail, but those aren't so directly involved with the jumping-out-of-First problem.

Rear straps like this one wrap around the short tubes added around the big framehorn bolts. Depending upon your rear bumper setup things can get crowded around there. The smaller-headed bolts used on `73-up cars have longer shanks if needed. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/zDwAAOSwP ... s-l300.jpg

[bikesndbugs]

I have been meaning to get trans straps the rear will be crowded as my motor cage mounts to my trans horns.


It did great on the ride home went good without issues.

[bikesndbugs]

So on the way there the motor was getting really hot like oil pressure light would come on and id pull off to the side let it cool and then be on my way. I have a stock non doghouse cooler and was wondering if i could get a full flow oil pump and dump it where the stock cooler dumps it. SO then i could run a filter and external cooler. I just dont wanna split the case to drill it for full flow. Or i could just go doghouse but is that really that much of an improvement.

[Marc]

Stock doghouse setup is pretty good, hard to do much better.

Case can be drilled/tapped for a full-flow return while assembled by providing compressed air into the passage to blow the chips out as you work.

On a dual-relief case you can also replace the pulley-end control valve with an aftermarket return fitting. These eliminate the direct passage to the main galleys so all the oil must go through the cooler all the time, so warmup takes longer; you'll also want to be sure your skidplate will protect it well.