Manx build

[Ol'fogasaurus]

That looks like a religious object.

[jg210302]

Once you have it in your hand and realize how light it is, it becomes a religious object!
I have been fortunate to have had the opportunity to work with some of the most prestigious race teams in the world. Back in the day when there was no control on development and money was no object I was able to help people realize their dreams of unobtanioum parts...

As a famous engine builder once told me "The rule book is just a guideline for losers!"

[Clonebug]

I used to get to play with parts like this...
engine.jpg
Now I get to play with much bigger pistons...

Do you make any VW pistons????

[Piledriver]

Do you make any VW pistons????

I'm sure he could, there's an unmet need for 4032 alloy slugs that aren't worn out in a few thousand miles like the available 2318 forged pistons. His Pinto pistons are 99% there for T4 use @96mm.

You can get anything custom, but no one wants to wait for JE or Wiseco to get around to their little order.

Right now the "off the shelf" choice is hypereutetic or 2318 alloy. Neither is optimal for a hipo and long lasting engine. 4032 solves that.

(You can answer with ~prices// lead time and such as its a direct question, we aren't anti-vendor here, and like to support our members)

[jg210302]

We have done a number of VW and Porsche parts in both 4032 (high silicone) and 2618... We don't get much call for them unless they are big bore and turbo charged or something? I guess most guys just buy barrel kits with pistons?

My only limitation would be small bores, the smallest I can do would be around 90.5mm... I have some new forgings in the works that will do smaller bores.

If anyone needs some all you need to do is tell them you are from STF and I will give the sales guys instructions to give you 10% below jobber. Or if you are a legit company and can provide proof I will have them set you up as a 1 time purchaser at engine builder price.
www.RaceTecPistons.com (714) 903-4362

[jg210302]

I have a question for you guys... Currently I have the BJ beam with discs all of the way around. When I redo the front suspension can or should I reuse those brakes? For example if I go with a beam it looks like I can get it with the BJ spacing to fit the frame, but then I have to convert to king and link pin arms? Maybe a beam like this...
http://www.mooreparts.com/jm-pro-off-ro ... -chromoly/
and arms like these? http://www.mooreparts.com/jm-pro-off-ro ... rms-6-x-3/
Or should I just figure on selling the stock beam complete from disc to disc and do a combo spindle set up or something?

[Piledriver]

The suspension geometry is somewhat jacked if you do the link pin on bj centers thing, the arms are no longer parallel.
The frame head can be changed out reasonably easy on your setup, and recently another method has been mentioned, keeping the lower part intact and just changing the upper section of the frame head, keeps things strong and lined up properly.

FWIW link pin spindles upgraded to ball joint stubs have been "a thing" for decades, as the BJ stub is much stronger.
That setup would probably allow you to keep your existing brakes.

The upside of the larger metric "combo" spindles is they are strong, and can take stock link pin fitment parts.
The downside of the combo spindles is the ~only decent brakes available for linkpin are insanely priced.

Given the wheels most folks run, the various GM/GMC micro stub/hub setups should get considered if starting from scratch. That way you need zero wheel adapters, tons of strength, very common any-parts store replacement bits, and ~unlimited brake choices most at very reasonable prices.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

If I remember correctly combo spindles use a spud the same size as BJ spuds (if I am wrong I will be quickly corrected. I just noticed the Pile already covered this while I was looking for the URL before I posted. Good job Pile). You can also get them with needle bearings instead of King Pin style of pivots as I remember.

For instance: http://www.jbugs.com/product/412031.html

Combo spindles with a 3" lift using International (Harvester) tie-rod ends.

[Piledriver]

The BJ spud on a linkpin spindle is sort of the "original" combo spindle...
...but you have to love standards, as there are so many to choose from...

MOST "combo" spindles today use a larger than BJ, oddball metric spud that allows you to run linkpin brakes via conversion bearings.
Its completely non-standard and AFAICT there are no OEM equivalents, and require either stock or "special" brakes and uncommon bearings.

If you aren't running 5x205 wheels a large Chevy stub and 6061T6 hubs from Wilwood would be a better plan.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I'm separating this from the last post 'cause I am going past the Combo spindles.

The one I posted was for a 3" lift for K&L that would be similar to using the Thing (Type 181) spindles on a BJ beam not the aftermarket spindle spud relocation spindles that only address the lowering of the spun, not the problem of tearing up the lower BJ itself by how it is mounted in the lower trailing arm.

The other advantage is the tie-rod ends like in the URL I posted above is that the stock VW joins have a tendency to fail in an off-road rig... they just aren't heavy duty enough. Both Ford and the International Harvester style of tie-rods are used in the steering with some miner boring/reaming involved. I also noticed that (spherical ?) tie-rod ends units are also available.

Going one step further, and still keeping the VW style of front beam, you can change the weak "stock" VW steering to a "center steer" style of R&P steering box. To move the stock steering box to center mount you have to notch and re-weld the Pittman Arm so the off-set hole for the short trailing arm is corrected for proper geometry.

Moving quickly forward: you can now get electronic power steering boxes to aid in steering especially if you go to larger front tires. You can also get spindles (I'm not sure about Combo yet but I think beam applications I have heard of) so you can go to the "front steer" option.

Tied to Piles last post, I hope I didn't "stun" you so you can't function for the rest of the day . You now have the start to a tube chassis dune buggy I think

[jg210302]

Thanks for all of the info guys!!! I never thought about cutting the top portion of the frame head off! That is a good idea because I can use the upper tubular braces to hold it in place also. That is until i build a complete tube frame or at least a tubular front clip that ties into the roll cage...

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Unless I miss-understand what you are saying, it is the combination of the top piece of the K&L frame head combined with the front piece that the beam hooks to, that is the structure needed.

Those two stiffeners, by themselves, shouldn't work well. The lowerone bolts into slots so it can move fore and aft. The upper tube bolts to the fiberglass firewall which really isn't structural. I guess you could build a hoop behind behind the firewall then use it to hook the upper tube through via. a short connection with a matching plate to the upper tube but you will still need the quick join connector to the front hoop assuming you are keeping the ability to remove the body or the cage separately. Make sure that the two mounting plates for the upper tube are of different sizes as if they are the same size they will stress out either a metal surface quickly or distroy FG.

I'll try to post a picture or URL for the frame head quick disconnect I am considering on using.

[jg210302]

I was also thinking about using one of these adapters? Then again tying everything together with a cage...

[Ol'fogasaurus]

http://www.mooreparts.com/search.php?se ... rch=SEARCH

They show two styles of connectors here. The http://www.mooreparts.com/rhino-roll-ca ... connector/ style probably wouldn’t work as well in my opinion but then that’s my opinion.

This is more the style I have been thinking about. http://www.mooreparts.com/chromoly-tubi ... ector-120/
I haven’t been on Moore’s site for a while and things sure have changed there.

http://www.mooreparts.com/rear-vw-baja- ... -required/

This is similar to the rear cage I have.

I don't remember seen that one before; interesting to say the least. My knee-jerk reaction would be for off-road I am not sure... depends on the abuse it is going to take. Most, but not all of my concern is bolts on bolts; bolts holding onto the frame head then the beam is bolted onto the adapter.

[Piledriver]

I was also thinking about using one of these adapters? Then again tying everything together with a cage...

That could work if tied in like you mean it, plus it gives you a little extra wheelbase if you want longer arms later.
Have not seen those used, but they only allow me to visit in the ORF as my son and grandson have rail buggys.

If I had a glass buggy it would have a full (outside the tub) tube frame and tied-in internal cage, to prevent ATV or pickup truck drive-throughs. The `glass looks great but it won't stop much, and the external ladder frames blend in like they were meant to be there without limiting internal space.