Tie Rods

[Kubelmann]

Anyone know of beefed up tie rods for a stock Thing front beam? Will be using Bilstein BN46 0493 front shocks with a BN22 0028 damper and Ghia front disc brakes. Any idea so I can beef up the front and increase travel would be appreciated. K-mann

[GDRBO]

There are a couple of cheap tricks for beefing tierods. 1) stuff part of a bug swaybar inside. 2) add a tube over the outside of the tierod and weld in place. 3) do both. Reinforcing the steering arms is good. There is not much you can do for more travel due to the use of balljoints. You can rotate the center anchor (not more than 1/4 inch or the balljoints will bind) but you simply get lift not travel.

[This message has been edited by GDRBO (edited 01-05-2003).]

[GreenMachine]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GDRBO:
There are a couple of cheap tricks for beefing tierods. 1) stuff part of a bug swaybar inside. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I just did that mod last week when I changed out some steering parts. It just doesn't get any easier than that one, plus it was a good way to make use of a part that was kicking around the garge for some time now

BTW: one reason I was working on the front end was the inner tie rod ends. I used those urathane boots for them ahwile back and the inners split wide open on me! The outers were fine but I don't think that they seal as good as the OG rubbers do.
The other reason was that I put a Re-man steering box in (along with the thane' boots etc.. ahwile back). This had to come out and get thrown in the round file cause it was a messed up POS from day one. So if you need a new box spend the few dollars extra for the new over the Re-man. I lucked out with a 68' parts chassis I drug home. The orginal box works perfectly, it's like having power steering now.
Just thought i'd pass some of my finding on to anyone who cares.


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Mark D.

[Leatherneck]

Any other ideas?

[Marc]

The stock tierod can be beefed up using either method GDRBO mentioned, but that does make the ends the weak link - they'll only bend so far before breaking, which would leave you worse off than you would've been with a bent tierod - at least you stand a chance of straightening one well enough to make it home.
I prefer the hunk o'swaybar inside because it's springy so it can absorb some impact and come back, which lessens the hit that the ends take. Be careful that you don't make it too long, if the ends bottom out against it when you set your toe that'll make the tierod prone to snapping off right at that point, leaving you without enough threads to put another end in to limp home - at least if you're using the late-style rod with "split" threads and clamps.

Next step up is to ream the steering & pitman arms for Ford or Int'l Harvester truck ends and use beefier tierods, or drill the holes straight to use bolts and Heim joints.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Marc and GDRBO make good points for strength but you still have a short rod and a long rod which can lead to bump steer especially if you do any longer travel changes.

Another option is to move the steering box to the center of the beam, modify the Pitman arm by moving the left side inner tie-rod connection connection with the other connection, fix the steering shaft w/universals and make new tie-rod ww/beefed up ends.

Another option might be to convert to a center steer r&p w/new tie-rods and ends.

Sorry about things you probably already know but some options to think about.

Sorry about the spell check program screwing this up so much.