Safari Turbo/Megasquirt Fuel Injection Project

[Clonebug]

In my experience, I'd rather push harder on a smooth engaging disk, instead of having a light foot but a light switch for a disk. Thats just me though. The long arm thing isn't a bad idea. I've had that in use the whole time I've had my stage 3. Doesn't hurt the leg much to use it even in traffic. I'll be pulling my arm off this winter, I won't need it anymore once I go with my new setup. They aren't super expensive, but can be challenging to find sometimes.

I was looking at a longer clutch arm....seems there are two different ones...depending on what diameter the throwout shaft is.

Which one do you have Chip??? I think I found them available at Aircooled.net.

Aircooled is out and no ETA on new ones........

What is a Kush Loc disc????

[Ol'fogasaurus]

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ku ... &FORM=IGRE

[Chip Birks]

In my experience, I'd rather push harder on a smooth engaging disk, instead of having a light foot but a light switch for a disk. Thats just me though. The long arm thing isn't a bad idea. I've had that in use the whole time I've had my stage 3. Doesn't hurt the leg much to use it even in traffic. I'll be pulling my arm off this winter, I won't need it anymore once I go with my new setup. They aren't super expensive, but can be challenging to find sometimes.

I was looking at a longer clutch arm....seems there are two different ones...depending on what diameter the throwout shaft is.

Which one do you have Chip??? I think I found them available at Aircooled.net.

Aircooled is out and no ETA on new ones........

What is a Kush Loc disc????

I just did some online searching and saw that there is not really a 20mm option in high performance tough shafts. So I'm betting that its 16mm. I will have to confirm that though.

[Piledriver]

Or use Google...
https://www.google.com/search?q=kush+lo ... 8&oe=utf-8

[madmike]

One thing to think about is ,with a Stage II or III not only the x-tra leg pressure but the strain in the clutch cable TUBE in the tunnel, the supports WILL break

[Piledriver]

One thing to think about is ,with a Stage II or III not only the x-tra leg pressure but the strain in the clutch cable TUBE in the tunnel, the supports WILL break

Is there a good hydraulic kit?

[Ol'fogasaurus]

One thing to think about is ,with a Stage II or III not only the x-tra leg pressure but the strain in the clutch cable TUBE in the tunnel, the supports WILL break

Is there a good hydraulic kit?

IMG_0280.JPG

This is the easy end. I did know a guy who did a fairly easy Hyd. clutch conversion in a Ghia. I don't know what MC he used, but it was a VW top and bottom bolt unit; he located/mounted it next to the brake MC then ran a push rod through the Napoleon's hat area and welded a mount of some kind (I saw it back in the 90's so I forget what it was) connection mount to the original clutch pedal. I know it lasted for a long time. The way I did the pedal assembly I would not recommend.

Lee

[Dan Dryden]

I’ve been using a stage 3 clutch on the normal cable system for 12 years.
The only mod I made was to put some extra weld around the fork which holds the thrust bearing.
I’m using my 3rd clutch cable, but I can live with a snapped cable every 4 years. (I just make sure I carry a spare).....

And my left leg is as strong as ever! Lol!

[GS guy]

If going with a hydraulic conversion, something like the SACO kit seems to be the best way to minimize fabrication, plus conceal the master cylinder in the tunnel. Unfortunately, reviews of that system appear to be sketchy...
For the Subaru (transmission) conversions, there's a similar kit from Subyworks:
http://subistuff.com/subi-conversions/v ... ssion.html

You'd have to opt out of the Subaru specific hardware from that kit, but I think something similar could be pieced together using your own master cylinder of choice and a Wilwood or CNC slave cylinder, plus the slave saver kit and maybe one of the updated cluch arm kits for the pedals. The adapter bracket at the pedals doesn't look that complicated to fab. Connect up a long brake line to the rear and fab up a custom (or adopt an existing brake soft line) at the MC. I'd definitely utilize the inspection/reinforcement plate from Subyworks for access and maintenance in the tunnel.

[Chip Birks]

Hydraulic is not needed with this build. Go stg2, check and possibly re-enforce the welds on the tube especially near the transmission inspection plate, and call it good. I ran the stage 3 in mine for 3 years before the tube popped out of place the first time. I'm sure I just didn't do a great job of welding it back in. Access is a little tricky with a body on the car. You don't have that problem during the winter months.

[Clonebug]

Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone!!!!!

I'm inclined to not go with hydraulic clutch actuation since it will just make it more complicated if/when on a long trip. A cable is fairly easy to replace with normal tools. That along with the fab work is not where I want to go at this point.
I'm also thinking Chip's advice for a Stage II is the way to go. I'm not going to order it until I get the buggy torn down in case there is a different issue causing the slippage other than "Too Much Powa" like I prefer to think!!!...
I have a dry engine for the most part underneath except for a slight weapage around the oil dipstick which only happens when I do multiple hard boost runs in a row.
I have my WI and fan issues fixed and everything seems to work as tested in the garage due to the pouring rain we have had for the last week....
Next week looks better so possibly I can do a logging run to see where my IAT's end up at in this cool weather. I'm not able to load the engine at full boost due to clutch slippage but I'll possibly lower the max boost to see where it holds......weather permitting.
I'll be pretty busy at work trying to get all the jobs done that are lined up for this year but it is all weather sensitive, so some might have to be done after the first of the year if customers are desperate enough.

[Clonebug]

Mileage 89,426

I actually took the buggy out today for a little test drive. The fan does work and kicks on with the first WI nozzle. All the WI lights work correctly again and my IAT's are staying below 100 degrees at 22.7 lbs boost.
It was pretty brisk out though so I'll have to see what happens this coming summer.
The braces seem to help hold everything nice and firmly.
My little video camera quit and the video was so short it isn't worth uploading to YouTube.

My clutch still won't hold so I guess it's time to put the buggy under the knife again for it's annually winter upgrades.

On the list this year is.....

Fan control from MS-2 through the relay board.......
New Stage II clutch with a New CB Super Disc.
Possible new 300 PSI pump for WI.

Pretty short list for this year......
Although......... I was looking at my unused heater ducts from the shroud and wondering if they would put out enough airflow to cool the intercooler. If I could plumb that up without it looking like a ghetto car it might be worth a try......

I'm going to try to take it to work a couple days this week since weather is supposed to stay dry but as cool as it was today I am not looking forward to the drive to work at 6:30 am.......

[madmike]

Gee Art,You forgot a whole bunch of stuff: as in
new CW 78mm crank
bigger cam,,, just pick one
Big heads ,, then u can turn down the boost
sell me all the WI stuff 'cheap'(you won't need it)

[Clonebug]

Turn down the boost???

Then I can't piss off the purists.....

[rubenski]

Oh man. I envy you. I went trough the hassle of removing the hood on my manx.

Your 2 piece looks much easier!