Safari Turbo/Megasquirt Fuel Injection Project

[Dan Dryden]

Hi Clone, I saw Mario’s Post on Facebook and have now subbed to your YouTube channel. I love seeing the development of your engine, particularly as mine hasn’t made much progress over recent years.
Where in your inlet manifold are you spraying Water/Meth? Before or after throttle body? Single injector or 2,3,4?
I’ve read that it is more effective to spray further away from the valves to give the mist time to absorb heat.

[Clonebug]

Hi Clone, I saw Mario’s Post on Facebook and have now subbed to your YouTube channel. I love seeing the development of your engine, particularly as mine hasn’t made much progress over recent years.
Where in your inlet manifold are you spraying Water/Meth? Before or after throttle body? Single injector or 2,3,4?
I’ve read that it is more effective to spray further away from the valves to give the mist time to absorb heat.

Thanks Dan!!!!

I have a somewhat staged WI system due to having two Hobbs and two Solenoids. One kicks on at 4 lbs. boost and injects just above the TB at 1.0 gph and the second kicks on at 9 lbs boost at 2.0 gph and injects right at the tee below the TB on my homebuilt intake.
It has produced good results with a temp drop of 100 degrees or better most of the time depending on ambient air temps.



Lower nozzle is the 1/4 inch clear line running from the solenoid to below the TB on the intake Tee....



Look close...you can see the upper nozzle in the tophat.



I'm not sure where to continue at this point.......I do want to replace my cheapo WI pump with a "Devil's Own" 300 psi pump but at $150.00 plus shipping I am wondering if it will really give me the results I am looking for. I suppose in the summer it will help but right now I can't complain about my IAT's.
I would also like to make my DRD turbo heads work but if I have to throw any more money at them I might as well just buy a set of CB 40X35 heads instead.
Shipping my heads somewhere and getting all new valves and seats might or might not fix them.

The next step would be taking the engine apart and adding a C/W crank along with dynamic balancing and a bigger cam. It seems the engine reached it's peak at about 5200 rpm and if I could go to 7000 plus rpm with good flow I could get some more power that way......but then there is the street-ability loss.....is it worth it?????
I do need a new Stage II clutch since I have overwhelmed the stage I but if I just turn down the boost to 20 lbs. and try to be happy with that I could save that $$$$ too.
I could also build a 2165cc engine and start over but then it's just another big engine putting out power.....and along with that a transmission upgrade.....suspension....injectors.....you know the routine........Addiction.

[volksbugly]

I cheated and towed it behind my truck......

Where is the fun in that!!! Dude awesome job!

[Clonebug]

I cheated and towed it behind my truck......

Where is the fun in that!!! Dude awesome job!

Thanks!!!!

It was snowing when I left the house at before 7:00 am and there was snow on the road when I got back at 9:00pm........I'm old......not dumb.....

[volksbugly]

Hey read back a few pages didn't see it. What turbo are you running? What compression? what fuel type and what plugs?

me. t 3/4, 7.5:1 compression, WI, 91 octane and NGK 8 temp plugs

[Clonebug]

MHI TD04L-13T turbo
7.8:1 compression
92 octane fuel
Bosch plugs one step colder than stock resistor plugs
WI at 3.0 gph and an Audi TT intercooler.

[woodsbuggy1]

FANTASTIC JOB Art!!!!!
Thanks Again for inspiring us and documenting your build.
Kenric

[petew]

CB, I think really you've shown us just what you can do with a stock motor and a turbo. Truly impressive and gives me hope for the future.

P.s. can you remind me what brand 88mm piston/cyls you have?

[buguy]

Very inspiring for sure!

[Clonebug]

CB, I think really you've shown us just what you can do with a stock motor and a turbo. Truly impressive and gives me hope for the future.

P.s. can you remind me what brand 88mm piston/cyls you have?

Just the standard AA 88 mm thick wall P/C's. Slip in case and cut heads to 90.5/92.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Art, got kind of a question. On my "almost a truck" I am fighting a fuel problem: since I really haven't kept up with what the new cars with FI have for many years now, I found out that there is an electric fuel pump emergency shutoff and reset switch. You take a hard bump in the rear and the pump is shut off and you have to go through an easy reset process; this is to keep you from getting Bar-B-Queued. If you hadn't thought about adding an emergency automatic power switch to the fuel pump it might be something to look into.

Lee

[Clonebug]

Art, got kind of a question. On my "almost a truck" I am fighting a fuel problem: since I really haven't kept up with what the new cars with FI have for many years now, I found out that there is an electric fuel pump emergency shutoff and reset switch. You take a hard bump in the rear and the pump is shut off and you have to go through an easy reset process; this is to keep you from getting Bar-B-Queued. If you hadn't thought about adding an emergency automatic power switch to the fuel pump it might be something to look into.

Lee

Hey Lee,
The ecu takes care of that. When it senses no tach signal it will shut the pump off.
Of course the engine has to stall in order to have that happen.
Since it is a manual trans that would more than likely happen.

If per chance it didn't,,,, I would probably have more to worry about than just fuel.......

[Dan Dryden]

Art, got kind of a question. On my "almost a truck" I am fighting a fuel problem: since I really haven't kept up with what the new cars with FI have for many years now, I found out that there is an electric fuel pump emergency shutoff and reset switch. You take a hard bump in the rear and the pump is shut off and you have to go through an easy reset process; this is to keep you from getting Bar-B-Queued. If you hadn't thought about adding an emergency automatic power switch to the fuel pump it might be something to look into.

Lee

What you’re describing is an “inertia switch”.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Thanks Dan, when I was writing I couldn't remember the name of the system. One of those things one doesn't always think of but could be very important; such a good idea!

Lee

[turbobaja]

if I could go to 7000 plus rpm with good flow I could get some more power that way......but then there is the street-ability loss.....is it worth it?????

My vote is NO, it's not worth it. Just a quality head upgrade would likely give you considerable increases, as long as your intake/exhaust are up to the task. I built a 2054cc with a W100 and AA 40x35.5 heads that made great power past 5K NA. You're buggy being light weight would make things a little more forgiving with a lumpier cam profile, but don't go too radical would be my advice.

I'm building a 1904cc Builders Choice kit for a friend right now and it seems like a GREAT package to add a turbo to. Los Pachito heads and a special cam ground on 112 lobe centers with zero advertised valve overlap, should be an easy 90hp NA with good carbs and exhaust, with torque to spare . I know it's not a "mouse", but a very practical package none the less.