Safari Turbo/Megasquirt Fuel Injection Project

[buguy]

Every time I take my buggy apart I figure out a better, easier way to put it back together....especially in the wiring harness....hey ..I'm just a dumb Friesman...........

Holy hell! I had to Google "Friesman"

[petew]

#pokingthebear...

If you were really serious about a mouse motor, you'd be building an 1100 turbo.

[Piledriver]

Every time I take my buggy apart I figure out a better, easier way to put it back together....especially in the wiring harness....hey ..I'm just a dumb Friesman...........

Holy hell! I had to Google "Friesman"

I hope for his sake it was more like the lemon-garlic-Parmesan fries-making variety .

[GS guy]

CB - are you still running a 4-doweled crank with that kind of HP/Tq? Don't recall if it got 8-doweled during previous work? Seems like you're well into wedgemate territory which used to be SOP for turbo builds (back in the 80's that is....), don't know if that has been proven not really necessary except for all out drag builds? If you're still 4-dowel - that might be the next weak link once you beef up the clutch!
Jeff

[Clonebug]

CB - are you still running a 4-doweled crank with that kind of HP/Tq? Don't recall if it got 8-doweled during previous work? Seems like you're well into wedgemate territory which used to be SOP for turbo builds (back in the 80's that is....), don't know if that has been proven not really necessary except for all out drag builds? If you're still 4-dowel - that might be the next weak link once you beef up the clutch!
Jeff

This 1679cc engine was 8-doweled when it was built in early 2012........Wow!!! It's 6 years old already!!!!!
As far as I know the Swedes never wedgemated their cranks and they were at 400 hp so I have a long way to go yet......

I was talking to Keith Branch and he says a 2021cc engine is a pretty easy build. I could be tempted to build something like that with all balanced internals for 7500 rpm along with better heads. That would probably involve a different turbo and other upgrades like a better intake, bigger TB and other stuff.....
I'm sure it would be a perfect candidate for that Holset H1C I am looking for.......

[Chip Birks]

My big motor isn't wedgemated. I do however use a good bolt, and torque it to 450ft/lbs. Many launches on slicks with a very heavy clutch at high rpm haven't caused a problem yet. My mouse will have a wedgemated crank and flywheel, mostly because thats what i had easy access to.

What makes a 2021 clone? Thats not a combo I'm familiar with? 78x92?

[Clonebug]

76X92 with with the new C/W crank with chevy journals.
Almost no clearancing and using 92 thick walls with the base turned down to 90.5 makes for a good strong case.
It can all be done locally for no shipping out of state for machine work.
You would have to purchase new rods but that is only a small extra cost.
Bolts together easy.......Even TimsACVW likes to build them.

[Chip Birks]

Very nice. I wish i had gone chevy journals on mine forever ago.

[Clonebug]

2.0L for nice low end off boost and good high end power if you use a Holset.........I'm thinking it would be a match made in the PNW.....

I just might talk myself into this!!!!!!!

Use the CB Hi Flow endpieces with ported 40X35 Heads, a 1 3/4 inch diameter intake Tee with a 50mm TB, some 60# injectors and the Holset Turbo for an easy 350 hp????
350 crank hp can be done with 7500 rpm, 2021 cc's, 110* IAT's, 19.11 lbs boost and 477 cu ft of airflow according to my favorite calculator.

I'm thinking the Holset might be a nice match if you can find one with the small 9R exhaust housing.

[buguy]

Man I wish I had known you were looking for one of those. There was one for sale here on Craig's list a month or 2 ago. Thought about buying it myself because I never see them for sale.

[Clonebug]

I saw three of them for sale at the Portland swap meet but they wouldn't come down to my low ball offer of $75.00......
I bought a HY35 for that price and it looked brand new. The H1C has a straight compressor outlet and would work better for my build.

[Clonebug]

Engine is out.....Stage I and Disc is removed.
The PP and Disc are still in great shape. PP was nice and flat along with the flywheel. Really no wear that I can measure, maybe a couple .001 but that's it.
I cleaned up the glazing on the flywheel and installed the new Stage II and Exide 503A disc and torqued it to 18 ft. lbs. The new PP was also nice and flat so I'm thinking the Stage I just couldn't hold the torque....Although it held a little better than advertised so I got my money's worth.
This PP should be good to 220 ft. lbs torque and if I start slipping that I'm just going to turn down the boost.

I'll put the engine back in this afternoon or tonight and start putting the buggy back together. I should be able to fire it up in a couple days.
I can't find anything else that needs to be fixed since everything looks great underneath.
I did add some oil to the transmission and I might replace one of the axle boots but otherwise it's go time.

[buguy]

You don't fart around!

[Clonebug]

You don't fart around!

Got to get it done while the rain is falling.......

I installed the Stage II and Exide 503A disc today along with putting the engine back in....The old PP and disc were in great shape but just couldn't hold the torque......it still held better than advertised though..........



I also fixed my EGT sensor wiring to make it easier to pull the engine by putting a connector by the engine os I don't have to pull all my harness apart to get he EGT wire out from the front.
I called Mario yesterday afternoon and the thermocouple connector was at my door by 1:30 pm today.......pretty good service I have to say....



I have the engine back in again and I am putting the harness back together and cleaning up the temporary fan control wiring by making it permanent with some nice covering and heat shrink. It takes time but is really worth it for a nice clean look.
I added some oil to the transmission and I'll probably replace an axle tube boot but otherwise everything looks good.
A little clean up and maybe some paint in the worn spots and I'll have it on the road in a couple days.......I can then turn it up to 24 lbs boost......200 plus whp here I come!!!!!!!

[GS guy]

You can also get thermocouple lugs in matching wire-type if you need a bolt-together but still able to disconnect solution. The plugs are nice though for an easy TC QD. Key with thermocouples is keeping the same wire type/material up to the point where you want to measure the temp. Used plenty of these (usually Type K) in my previous working life.

On the 76 crank - would you still use the B pistons? Use the rod length to correct for piston height? That seems like an unusual combo and can't say I've ever read about an engine build with a 76mm crank. Unique!
Jeff