SOLD - 1600 TURBO + oval + downunder

[Chip Birks]

Do you have an idle valve?

[petew]

Yep, course I have an idle valve! Bosch 3 wire, Hyundai accent/Ferrari... seriously.

[Chip Birks]

Haha, i went 4 years without one. Do you feel like yours isn't working right? What frequency are you running?

[Piledriver]

Just looked at the idle control box again. Will changing the idle "valve frequency" help things much?

Probably not, the stock VW VDO 2 and 3 wire IACS run at 99hz from the factory tho...

I'm talking about idle VE and idle timing, closed loop idle, all the initial values...
Use it. Don't fight it in the main fuel/spark tables, its not B&G firmware or MS1...
... the extensive idle features are there for very good reason.

Once set up properly it will be hard to tell its isn't factory from the drivers seat.

[petew]

Grrr... update soon

[Piledriver]

Re: Auto tune not working well...

Auto tune in TS contains a lambda delay table (advanced settings, Lambda Delay), only 9 cells, but it interpolates.
(MS3 firmware has a much larger one for its internally generated fuel trim tables, but I digress)

This being correct allows tuner studio to sync the samples ~precisely to the cell it needs to tune during normal driving.

When lambda delay is set accurately, Tuner Studios VEAL rocks, and is very fast, accurate, and repeatable.

The default tables are for a 350 Chevy with iron log manifolds, with the WBO2 sensors within inches of the rear exhaust valves. (That's what the author of TS has)
If your engine is not like that, your lambda delay is wrong, and TS cannot sync the samples to the right cells if you are driving at anything other than a steady state.

Consider making figuring out the delay job one, it makes getting a good tune a matter of hitting a few freeway on ramps or finding a few hills for 20 minutes.

Its actually pretty easy to pull the needed data from the logs, esp if you create a custom VE table to spike the fuel at 3 RPMs with a very narrow RPM spread, you just watch the fuel PW and see how long it takes the WB to see the spike.
Near idle, it can be a couple seconds, so its best to test the 3 RPMS at ~2K, near redline and ~in the middle, and have the base row MAP at around cruise or just under.

You don't actually use MAPs much under cruise for anything but decel, so its not critical.

[petew]

No dramas with auto tune. Got some tuning done, although my datalog for that time didn't save for some reason. What I'm pretty frustrated with is my alternator pulley. It started grinding on the housing on the way home. In the end I had to cut the fan belt and drive the last 3km without a cooling fan.

The pulley was fouling on the alternator...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwJEdu6oEX4

Head temp got up to 160C. Cooled off ok thankfully.

[kangaboy]

Head temp got up to 160C. Cooled off ok thankfully.

I'm assuming your head temp sensor isn't on a sparkplug...because 160°C/320°F isn't hot at all, especially without a fan.

[petew]

The sensor is on the tinware screw. It's one of Mario's...

https://thedubshop.goodsie.com/modified ... emp-sensor

[kangaboy]

Ahh, that makes sense then. I have a sensor wired to the underside of my pushrod tubes for the warm up enrichments, which I assume is what your sensor is for as well. I would be pretty concerned if mine got up to 320F, as it is usually 220ishF

[petew]

Cranky, frustrated, grrrr....

Stupid turbo still isn't draining properly. Found more oil in the inlet tract. Man, so sick of this.

Will have to come up with a different drain tank idea and hope that works.

[panel]

^^ Pete......have you ever pulled the drain line while idling to see the flow ?

[petew]

Before this new tank, yes. I'll check it again before I do anything else. I did pull the valve cover it dumps into the other day. There was oil in the line, so it's doing something for sure. I don't think it's dropping vertically enough into the drain. I'm also going to look into the air-filter situation.

[petew]

Guys need some advice re airfilters. My turbo guru is wondering whether my oiled-foam filter is causing too much vacuum and that's sucking oil out of the compressor seal.

Also wondering about venting my fuel tank. Have looked all over the car to try and sort out the fuel smell, all the lines look tight. The smell always comes after boost.

[MarioVelotta]

Petew, my clt temp sensor is NOT meant to be a CHT temp sensor, only for a warmup cylce and hot restarts. Temps over 260F will be skewed.