New guy, new build
- Chip Birks
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Re: New guy, new build
Well, what coil are you planning to run? If its a smart coil, you won't need it. But pretty much any 2 wire(dumb coil) coil will need it. A 4 post coil with 3 wires is a dumb coil. If running a 4 post coil you will need 2 coil drivers btw.
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Re: New guy, new build
so i will need 2 to run a 4 tower wasted spark set up? Like the one mario sellsChip Birks wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:14 pm Well, what coil are you planning to run? If its a smart coil, you won't need it. But pretty much any 2 wire(dumb coil) coil will need it. A 4 post coil with 3 wires is a dumb coil. If running a 4 post coil you will need 2 coil drivers btw.
- Chip Birks
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Re: New guy, new build
Yes sir, page 76 and 77 on the manual you have been using outlines the process
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Re: New guy, new build
OK I see that now it says sparkA and sparkB are needed for 4 cyl wasted spark. but everything else is just jibberish to me. I might be a little over my head haha maybe ill send it to mario to finish.Chip Birks wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:40 pm Yes sir, page 76 and 77 on the manual you have been using outlines the process
this is where im at so far
- Chip Birks
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Re: New guy, new build
Go ahead and pull out r37 and r38, i think. They are the the 2 leg transistor thingys one is next to q16. Jumper the two holes with a piece of wire. Then that gives you a spot for your second coil driver, and your boost control circuit eventually.
- Piledriver
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Re: New guy, new build
It will eventually make sense, usually right after you needed it to.
IMHO you are far better off with a logic controlled coil,(VW 106x) keeps the high powered noise out of the ECU.
Mario sells those too, as does any auto parts store, its a bog standard part off ~2000 era VWs.
Avoiding problems by design is far better than trying to fix the effects afterwards.
IMHO you are far better off with a logic controlled coil,(VW 106x) keeps the high powered noise out of the ECU.
Mario sells those too, as does any auto parts store, its a bog standard part off ~2000 era VWs.
Avoiding problems by design is far better than trying to fix the effects afterwards.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: New guy, new build
(If, however, you prefer to do without the current limiting and want to make two spaces on the heatsink bar, thenChip Birks wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2017 9:58 pm Go ahead and pull out r37 and r38, i think. They are the the 2 leg transistor thingys one is next to q16. Jumper the two holes with a piece of wire. Then that gives you a spot for your second coil driver, and your boost control circuit eventually.
you can instead link out R37 and R38 by soldering a copper wire between the 2 holes in each. Ensure the link is
flat to the board as you may need a component on the heat sink later on in the build. Remember that without
these current sense resistors, there is no over-current protection on the injector circuits.)
so just for my knowledge if i did go FI do you not need over current protection on the injector circuits, or is there another way to do so
- Piledriver
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Re: New guy, new build
Its called a "fuse". Quite reliable, always on the 12v feed side.so just for my knowledge if i did go FI do you not need over current protection on the injector circuits, or is there another way to do so
Most injectors are much higher resistance than ignition coils.
Considering the mainboard inj. drivers are good for ~14A each ( and support software PWM peak/hold if you run lowZ injectors) you should be just fine. IIRC those current sense resistors are only there to support the peak and hold mode.
Last edited by Piledriver on Mon Apr 17, 2017 5:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- Chip Birks
- Posts: 4006
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:59 pm
Re: New guy, new build
I've built more than my fair share of v3.0 boards, I've never included those guys. Just don't run low impedance injectors later and there is nothing to worry about.
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Re: New guy, new build
alright cool, then ill need to order another coil driver and im to the point now where i need to test the damn thing before going any further per the manual. i guess i shouldve bought the jim stim. Can i just attach 2 wires to the supplied db37 connector one for power and one for ground and connect those to a 12v battery. So i can check the voltages before moving forward
searched it and i can, just need to get a low amp inline fuse
searched it and i can, just need to get a low amp inline fuse
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Re: New guy, new build
is this the logic controlled coil youre talking about? One of my friends owns a vw shop and he can get these coils for cheapPiledriver wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2017 10:03 pm It will eventually make sense, usually right after you needed it to.
IMHO you are far better off with a logic controlled coil,(VW 106x) keeps the high powered noise out of the ECU.
Mario sells those too, as does any auto parts store, its a bog standard part off ~2000 era VWs.
Avoiding problems by design is far better than trying to fix the effects afterwards.
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- Piledriver
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Re: New guy, new build
Yep. Some people also sell it as an IGN4A. Same coil. Works very well.chriswillrise wrote: ↑Tue Apr 18, 2017 9:00 pmis this the logic controlled coil youre talking about? One of my friends owns a vw shop and he can get these coils for cheapPiledriver wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2017 10:03 pm It will eventually make sense, usually right after you needed it to.
IMHO you are far better off with a logic controlled coil,(VW 106x) keeps the high powered noise out of the ECU.
Mario sells those too, as does any auto parts store, its a bog standard part off ~2000 era VWs.
Avoiding problems by design is far better than trying to fix the effects afterwards.
//THIS IS THE COIL YOU ARE LOOKING FOR //end Jedi mind trick
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2016 8:28 pm
Re: New guy, new build
so is there a better way to get set up for logic coil control. it seems there is 2 ways to do it FET or resistor method
- Piledriver
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Re: New guy, new build
There's actually a third way using a driver chip...
The "resistor" method on the LED drivers takes about 30 seconds... I ran that driving LS2 coils... Use 1K resistors.
The "resistor" method on the LED drivers takes about 30 seconds... I ran that driving LS2 coils... Use 1K resistors.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Posts: 292
- Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2016 8:28 pm
Re: New guy, new build
On the write up it says to use the 4k7 resistors