New guy, new build

[Chip Birks]

Well, what coil are you planning to run? If its a smart coil, you won't need it. But pretty much any 2 wire(dumb coil) coil will need it. A 4 post coil with 3 wires is a dumb coil. If running a 4 post coil you will need 2 coil drivers btw.

[chriswillrise]

Well, what coil are you planning to run? If its a smart coil, you won't need it. But pretty much any 2 wire(dumb coil) coil will need it. A 4 post coil with 3 wires is a dumb coil. If running a 4 post coil you will need 2 coil drivers btw.

so i will need 2 to run a 4 tower wasted spark set up? Like the one mario sells

[Chip Birks]

Yes sir, page 76 and 77 on the manual you have been using outlines the process

[chriswillrise]

Yes sir, page 76 and 77 on the manual you have been using outlines the process

OK I see that now it says sparkA and sparkB are needed for 4 cyl wasted spark. but everything else is just jibberish to me. I might be a little over my head haha maybe ill send it to mario to finish.

this is where im at so far

[Chip Birks]

Go ahead and pull out r37 and r38, i think. They are the the 2 leg transistor thingys one is next to q16. Jumper the two holes with a piece of wire. Then that gives you a spot for your second coil driver, and your boost control circuit eventually.

[Piledriver]

It will eventually make sense, usually right after you needed it to.

IMHO you are far better off with a logic controlled coil,(VW 106x) keeps the high powered noise out of the ECU.
Mario sells those too, as does any auto parts store, its a bog standard part off ~2000 era VWs.

Avoiding problems by design is far better than trying to fix the effects afterwards.

[chriswillrise]

Go ahead and pull out r37 and r38, i think. They are the the 2 leg transistor thingys one is next to q16. Jumper the two holes with a piece of wire. Then that gives you a spot for your second coil driver, and your boost control circuit eventually.

(If, however, you prefer to do without the current limiting and want to make two spaces on the heatsink bar, then
you can instead link out R37 and R38 by soldering a copper wire between the 2 holes in each. Ensure the link is
flat to the board as you may need a component on the heat sink later on in the build. Remember that without
these current sense resistors, there is no over-current protection on the injector circuits.)

so just for my knowledge if i did go FI do you not need over current protection on the injector circuits, or is there another way to do so

[Piledriver]

so just for my knowledge if i did go FI do you not need over current protection on the injector circuits, or is there another way to do so

Its called a "fuse". Quite reliable, always on the 12v feed side.
Most injectors are much higher resistance than ignition coils.
Considering the mainboard inj. drivers are good for ~14A each ( and support software PWM peak/hold if you run lowZ injectors) you should be just fine. IIRC those current sense resistors are only there to support the peak and hold mode.

[Chip Birks]

I've built more than my fair share of v3.0 boards, I've never included those guys. Just don't run low impedance injectors later and there is nothing to worry about.

[chriswillrise]

alright cool, then ill need to order another coil driver and im to the point now where i need to test the damn thing before going any further per the manual. i guess i shouldve bought the jim stim. Can i just attach 2 wires to the supplied db37 connector one for power and one for ground and connect those to a 12v battery. So i can check the voltages before moving forward

searched it and i can, just need to get a low amp inline fuse

[chriswillrise]

It will eventually make sense, usually right after you needed it to.

IMHO you are far better off with a logic controlled coil,(VW 106x) keeps the high powered noise out of the ECU.
Mario sells those too, as does any auto parts store, its a bog standard part off ~2000 era VWs.

Avoiding problems by design is far better than trying to fix the effects afterwards.

is this the logic controlled coil youre talking about? One of my friends owns a vw shop and he can get these coils for cheap

[Piledriver]

It will eventually make sense, usually right after you needed it to.

IMHO you are far better off with a logic controlled coil,(VW 106x) keeps the high powered noise out of the ECU.
Mario sells those too, as does any auto parts store, its a bog standard part off ~2000 era VWs.

Avoiding problems by design is far better than trying to fix the effects afterwards.

is this the logic controlled coil youre talking about? One of my friends owns a vw shop and he can get these coils for cheap

Yep. Some people also sell it as an IGN4A. Same coil. Works very well.
//THIS IS THE COIL YOU ARE LOOKING FOR //end Jedi mind trick

[chriswillrise]

so is there a better way to get set up for logic coil control. it seems there is 2 ways to do it FET or resistor method

[Piledriver]

There's actually a third way using a driver chip...

The "resistor" method on the LED drivers takes about 30 seconds... I ran that driving LS2 coils... Use 1K resistors.

[chriswillrise]

On the write up it says to use the 4k7 resistors