Drawthrough holley 350cfm tuning problems

[Bugupyourass]

Im wondering if anyone can help me with my tuning issues on my stock 1600dp turbo setup. I sent my brand new holley 350cfm 2bbl out to lowbugget for modifications, and im still having issues with tuning it for driveability. The ignition is a 009 locked out at 20*. I have a wideband on it for tuning. Turbo is a stock t25 with the factory wastegate at 7psi, with boost creep up to 10psi. Afrs at idle are at about 10.5, but i go lean when rolling into the throttle up to 20:1. I have to pump the gas twice before it'll actually accelerate, and then it goes super rich at my rpm limit on WOT. Cruising is anwhere from 13-15:1 but starts breaking up around 15:1. Lowbugget hasnt been responding, and im just looking for a little help with tuning. Where should i start adjusting, because the recommended settings from lowbugget are super rich?

[buguy]

Sounds like you might need to try out a more aggressive accel pump cam. Maybe up the size of the pump nozzle too. I think you can buy a pack of 8 assorted pump cams pretty cheap. I'd get that so you can tune it to whatever you will ever need. I'd try that before changing the nozzle.
But you might go ahead and grab the next size up nozzle just in case. Both should be in the $20-$25 range.

[buguy]

May get the off idle acceleration dialed in then come back with some smaller main jets to lean it out a bit at WOT.

[madmike]

up the Timing to 24* ,, may help?

[buguy]

Agreed

[Bugupyourass]

I did have the timing at 24* for a while, but seemed to run better when i turned it down. When i had it at 24, when i hit max psi, my boost gauge would flutter, and the engine seemed to detonate, although the afrs were rich. I just assumed that was detonation from too high of timing

[Bugupyourass]

Felt almost like a rev limiter, which i dont have

[buguy]

Did you make a positive stop in your dist? I drilled and tapped a hole for a screw that would physically stop the advance. That way I can adjust it to wherever I want.

[Bugupyourass]

I locked this dist with tacks on the weights so they dont swing out. Set at 20* for the whole rev range

[Bugupyourass]

Does anyone have rough settings i could try, to see if im anywhere near where i should be?

[madmike]

24* should be safe, what fuel you running?

[madmike]

I remember a post about one of his carbs not being cleaned out it had flashing/metal casting flaws,, had a 'Percy' adjustable thingy on it,, maybe seach for that post?

[buguy]

Even if someone else had your exact same set up tunes can vary greatly, so really your only option is going to be to start fiddling with the tune. If your problem is right off idle it almost has to be your pump shot. From there you start looking at the main jet size or adjustment of your Percy. Then the power valve.

[Bugupyourass]

24* is what most people say to set the timing at, but ive seen people have to turn it down, and have their setup run better. I dont think i can pull the carb apart and keep whatever warranty it hasn since they put wax over the fasteners to see if its been tampered with. I think my main problem is the transfer from idle control to the main jets. Thats where im leaning out.i feel like the power valve is too high of a rating, and not richening when it loses some vacuum at the referenced port. I was having problems with the power valve being too long, and interfering with the adjust a jet.

[buguy]

Well if they won't even return your email I would guess your warranty isn't much good anyway. And if it runs poorly you don't have much choice other than making some changes.
Power valve should really only open during WOT. You can change it to open at whatever vacuum you want. Shouldn't affect your off idle drive ability though. The circuit that transitions between idle and main jet is the pump shot.