1600 turbo build thread

[buguy]

Ok let me see if I can relate my crazy head here in words!
Art I i was able to pick up a cheap stock head. My valves and single HD springs are like new so if I can I'd like to run the stock heads and valves with the springs I have. If I got panchitos I'd have to spring for cnc porting to get the cc's I would need. They are 54cc out of the box. At that point I may as well get titanium retainers, so id be in for $700 in heads (not out of the question yet but that's $700 closer to FI if I didn't get them). AA heads are about $525 so I feel the CB heads are worthwhile over them for the extra $175.
I also want to go ahead and run those 94mm A pistons since I already have them. So I'm looking at a 1915 at least. I guess I was thinking the engine won't be worse/slower than stock even with stock heads on a bigger bore. If it's at all better with a big bore and stock heads then it's a bonus.

I have too much play in the small ends of the roads so I have to at least rebush them and then hone to fit my wrist pins. Just a rough guess I'm probably going to spend $65-$75 to have that done, so some new $100 rods make more sense.

I'd be looking at $75 to drill my stock crank for 8 dowel. That's why I figured a new crank made more sense at less than $200 new for a cw crank. And 69mm-76mm cranks are the same price (here you see my dilemma).

I have read a lot of good things about that Web 218 cam. 455 lift and 242 duration @ 50, and I can have it ground on a 112 lobe which I think will make an awesome turbo cam.

Chip I wonder how a 74x94 would be with a 5.325 rod? 74mm would be 1.5mm longer each way than stock, but I would lose. 075mm with the rod. Leaving me. 075mm to make up with a spacer /shim to get back to stock in theory. That would be at the 7.3:1 compression so I may not even need that since I'm shooting for 7.8:1-8:1 compression.

I know this must be a tough read and maybe hard to follow. Just trying to be smart about it at this point. Maybe if I just convinced myself to get a cw 69mm crank I could move forward. But damn it the 74-76mm crank is exactly the same price!

But new heads are where all the money is. So if I can make mine work that would just about cover an ECU and harness!

[buguy]

And thanks again guys for walking through this with me. I will work it out real soon.
And Art I have a 6v trans so it's not even any good for a core. I fully plan to get the engine built and then start saving for a new trans. Or maybe by the time I have it built I will have already saved enough for it. Buying one outright is going to hurt!

[Chip Birks]

74mm is 2.5mm longer per side.

[buguy]

Math is hard!

[buguy]

So according to the cb calculator I would need a .050" shim for a 74mm crank and a .060" shim for a 76mm. That's with 54cc stock heads. If I spring for Panchito heads they can cc them for what I want and use no shim. $30 each for that. These of course are just calculations.
Even with a stock crank I'm going to need .22"
These are all getting a .060" deck height and 8:1 compression
So maybe with some port work on my stock heads it wouldn't be too terribly bad??

[Chip Birks]

You have to have a shim. Otherwise your piston will hit your head, doesn't matter how many CCs your heads have.

[buguy]

There are none in it now.

[Chip Birks]

There are none in it now.

If you put a 74mm crank in it you will need them.

[buguy]

That will make it negative deck?

[buguy]

Wow. I was just playing with the engine calculator and changing a stock size engine from 7.3:1 to 7.5:1 compression changed deck height from .061" to .048." Way more than I would have expected!

[66brm]

That's due to the small bore size, jump up to the 94's and try the calculator again

[buguy]

Ok I think I have talked myself into this:
CB 69mm cw crank
94 barrels that I have
CB Uni-tech 5.4 rods
Web 218 cam/scat super duty lightweight lifters/adjustable cam gear
Elephant swivel foot adjusters and solid shims/solid shaft
Silver line steel backed bearings
Over size gland nut
26mm Shadek oil pump
Full flow (need more research)
Kennedy stage 2 and metal woven disk/DPR stock weight flwheel
Stock heads with single HD springs (home port job, need about 60cc chamber)
German seal kit
See anything weird?

[Chip Birks]

Oversized gland nut isn't needed. Just makes life suck when you have to take it off if you only have traditional vw tools. I have had an Empi gland nut on my big stroker for 6 years, torqued to 450ft/lbs. Its given me no trouble. My mouse motor has a big Scat nut. I had to make a tool to use my vw tool to get that silly thing off. I'll reuse it, but only because I made the adaptor tool already.

[buguy]

I wondered about that. I probably have the tool, but if it's unnecessary then I will skip it. But I should get a new stock size one, yes?

[buguy]

Oh yeah I'm going to get some new Manton push rods too.
That puts me in at just over $1200
But I still need to full flow it so I will have those associated cost too.