1600 turbo build thread

[buguy]

Looks like the 9b only can flow 265cfm. That would limit me to about 185hp according to that rbracing site. However I'm not real sure those numbers all jive with me. If I punch in some generic numbers it says I can make 100 hp with 1.68 pounds of boost. With the dyno numbers I've seen in YouTube something isn't right. I see many cars that run turbo 1600's only making 85-95 hp on the dyno. I'm sure they were all around the 5 pounds of boost mark. For 90 hp it says I need. 04 pounds. Essentially saying thats what I would make stock. Which is obviously not the case.

[petew]

I guess the thing to remember is, the smaller the turbo, the quicker it will come on boost. So with the bigger turbo you'll end up with a higher max HP figure. However, you'll have to rev the ringer out of it to get there. Turbo 1600s are already laggy. You don't want to make it worse. 185hp sounds pretty good in 1900lb car.

[buguy]

If my car made 185hp I would be so excited!

[petew]

If my car made 185hp I would be so excited!

Pretty much what I was thinking. Heck, 150hp is pretty fun in anything less than 2000lbs.

[buguy]

I should weigh my car. I have fiberglass fenders and I have once piece windows, no chrome, and no deck lid at the moment. But the turbo adds some so it might be a wash.
But really I figured I have less than 100hp. To be honest with the way it was before it didn't feel like it was any different than stock.

[petew]

I've got less than 100hp for sure at the moment. What I do have is a heap more usable torque than I used to have. I remember driving it with a worn out 1200 (and judson). I remember it pinging on every hill and not wanting to run right. Now it's smooth, peppy and has plenty of that midrange that turbos are famous for. You'll get there, just keep tuning.

[Dan Dryden]

Hey Bugguy, I got my restrictor from eBay. Although, as Clone has said, I don’t think it’s needed so plan to take it off this winter.
The turbo calculators are only as good as the numbers you enter into them.
I would suggest reducing the volumetric efficiency down to around 0.75. Our old aircooled engines have a pretty poor efficiency when compared to modern engines.
This would probably make the readings a little more accurate.

[buguy]

Yeah it's real hard to say. The T3 I have on there now is too big, it builds boost pretty late. That may be why I wasn't able to feel it much. I've done some improvements to it so I will see if that helped at all. Today will be the first time I have driven it on the road since probably around 2007.i want to at least take it for a little drive as is before I change out that turbo. Just for reference if nothing else. Also the Turkey Rod Run starts Wednesday here and its a huge thing here. There will probably be 30,000 cars here for it. So I'd like to take it out and about.
I will try changing the efficiency and see if those numbers make more sense. Also I just guess at 130 degrees for intake temp. I have no clue what it really is.

[Dan Dryden]

I just tried my setup:
VE = 0.75
Intake = 140*F
Max rpm = 5800
Target HP = 195hp
Capacity = 108ci

It showed that I needed 20.5psi to reach my HP goal. (I run 21psi, so seems pretty accurate to me.)

[buguy]

Yeah what I was trying to do last night was punch in numbers to get 50hp at zero boost. Figuring that would get me accurate to stock. VE had to be super low to get the numbers to work out. But I was just thinking I bet efficiency goes way up once we add boost.
At. 75 efficiency it's saying that is 100 hp for me. Long shot but I suppose it's possible. Especially if that's to the crank. I don't know what drive line loss would be on these but let's say 20%. That would give me 80hp to the ground. That's plausible.
21 pounds of boost for me would be 175 hp. I could live with that but I don't think I would have the balls to try that with my drawthrough! Maybe once the wide band is on in would feel so much like I was crossing my fingers. I suppose to come even close I'm going to need WI.

[madmike]

another thing is , whats the best fuel you can find down there? to run more boost ya gonna need some octane

[buguy]

I think some stations have 93 octane but my regular place only has 91 if I remember right. Might be 92. I don't remember now (I drive a diesel truck).

[madmike]

In can get away with 93 if I stick around 8-10lbs.
But,anything above 12 lbs then I need some VP or Cam2 at least 110 oct.

[buguy]

Well my brain got me again. I tried setting the air/fuel screws as lean as I could and have it still run decent because everything I read about those carbs from the V8 guys said they are hard to get lean enough for them. So I figured it would be extra bad for me on my tiny 4 cylinder. I noticed it would start ok but wouldn't stay running until it was fully warm. 1/4 turn out and its way way better. Guess I need that AFR more than I thought!

[buguy]

That's why I was thinking maybe water/meth injection would be a smart move. Then I shouldn't have to run race gas. I hope!