1600 turbo build thread

With Turbo and Super charging you can create massive horsepower with vw motors.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

Thinking about grabbing something like this to replace the leaker I have now. Anyone ever seen one like this? Seems a bit more compact than most I've seen. Not sure if it's. Good thing or not since I would have to snake it back around and up to my drawthrough turbo. http://www.jbugs.com/product/3602-7.html
Not sure if I should get this or just get a CB hideaway now and blow through one of my carbs 'til I'm efi ready. We have a big show here April 8-10 and I'd like to be as ready as possible so I can enjoy the weekend.
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theKbStockpiler
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by theKbStockpiler »

I would not immediately reduced that because it really does not have a collector on it.
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Clonebug
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by Clonebug »

Looks like mine.

Image

I use a 2 inch flange output and welded a couple bends to get the exhaust to where I needed it.

Image
Stripped66 wrote:The point wasn't to argue air temps with the current world record holder, but to dispel the claim that the K03 is wrapped up at 150 HP. It's not.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

Excellent! I was wondering how far it stuck out. Although yours isn't a beetle I can see it wouldn't hang way out the back. Only thing I can see is the one I'm looking at is 1 1/2" and I may prefer 1 3/8". No heat risors would be nice too but no biggy to weld up. I would have to snake mine around a bit more than you because I have to thread it up through between the block and the header pipes.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

I grabbed a couple pieces of exhaust pipe last night to make a new intake. I'm going to make one for the 2 barrel and see if I like it better. I have a piece of 3/8 plate to make the carb flange with. Gonna be tough to make since the turbo inlet is 2" so I won't be able to just cut an opening in the pipe and weld the flange to it. The pipe I got is 2" and I got one that is 2 1/4" too. Should be able to work that into my 2" union. I should buy a 2 1/2" to 2" coupler but I want to make it today so...
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

So I got the 2 barrel on and sitting in the driveway it's tuned the best I can get it. It seems to be able to idle much lower than the last 4 barrel I had on it. As long as it starts hot, does it really matter how much I advance the timing at idle? I have it limited to 24 degrees so it won't go over that anyway. With the last 4 barrel I couldn't advance the timing much because it would idle too high.
It's the weekend of bike week here and the police are on full alert so I probably won't drive it 'til maybe early morning Sunday or maybe Monday evening when things calm down around here.
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theKbStockpiler
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by theKbStockpiler »

What sort of ignition are you using? The idle should not be set with the timing. You should be able to adjust the idle right down to stalling. If not,something is out of wack and needs attention.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

Just the stock set up. I'm sure it was all in the carbs. But really if I'm running too much advance at idle it would cause anything to idle high. I think most are running 8-10 degrees at idle. My timing light is at work so I couldn't check it. It just seemed that my car liked the advanced timing more and more as I increased it. But again I didn't drive it. Just sitting in the driveway it felt more crisp as I increased it. I haven't heard this engine ping yet. Even when I was grossly lean before getting the wideband.
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theKbStockpiler
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by theKbStockpiler »

Your base timing is going to effect where your total timing ends up so it has to be close. Total advance is going to be total advance from where it starts at which is at ildle. I don't think that a non stock engine can be perfectly timed with a light so some of it has to be by ear for a few degrees anyways. I would check for intake leaks. If that's good, I would epoxy the holes up in the throttle plates if they have them or put a smaller hole in them.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

I'm going to sell all the 4 barrels to fund the efi project so there really isn't much to do. Idle is great with the 2 barrel. So far. But it does have holes in the throttle blades that I will epoxy next time it's off. It doesn't really need it but I don't think it needs the holes either. I will know more after I'm able to take it out.
Also I agree that the total timing depends where you start, but for some reason it seems no matter where I start it always stops at 24 degrees. Don't ask me why?
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theKbStockpiler
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by theKbStockpiler »

the throttle plate (idle) has to be adjusted so it runs off the idle circuit and not the cruise circuit at idle. If it won't idle high enough in this region, it needs a hole in it.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

Yeah I don't think it would need to be idled up that high. Right now it will idle down to 800 rpm so blocking the holes should be fine. I usually try to keep the idle at around 900-1000 rpm.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

Still smoking like a bitch. This seem like it's getting to much oil through it?
https://youtu.be/-I1lN5IfslA
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theKbStockpiler
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by theKbStockpiler »

Low Bugget http://www.lowbugget.com/turboRBkits.html advertises that they convert piston seal turbos over to carbon seals.
It might make some sense to have a turbo set up for draw through handy.
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buguy
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Re: 1600 turbo build thread

Post by buguy »

It would but I will be going to efi soon and I don't really want to change the turbo. I'm wondering if maybe just putting a rebuild kit on it would solve it. Maybe oil is just getting by the orings or something. Just to get me by until I make the switch.
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