1600 turbo build thread

[Clonebug]

I'm ordering up my bends tomorrow. Its a bummer because the place with the cheap bends has nice flanges for sale too but no cheap collector. The next more expensive place with bends has a cheap collector but don't have thick flanges. So I have to order from 2 different places.
I'm really tempted to try blowing through one of these carbs but it sure seems like the throttle shafts would be a huge leak. I would also probably have to put an electric fuel pump on... Maybe. I don't really know what pressure the stock mechanical pump puts out. I believe a Holley is good to 7 pounds of pressure before overcoming the needle and seat. So if I have to bump the fuel pressure up as boost rises I could need as much as 17 pounds (assuming I run 10 psi of boost).I can't imagine I can get that from a stock pump.

I boost referenced a stock pump to 13 lbs boost without issues.

[Chip Birks]

Nice resource!

[petew]

Maybe if you are good at TIG welding. Probably best left to the pros, I sometimes have to remind myself that just because I can do something doesn't mean that I should.
Good Luck
Kenric

I asked about this sort of thing a while back. The welding isn't the tricky bit. A MIG would do it just as well. The problem is VW trans are pretty specialized. Not many people have the skills/tools to build them correctly.

[buguy]

Yeah clone that is where I want to get the collector, but their flanges aren't thick enough. I found bends for over $2 cheaper somewhere else, and they also have nice thick flanges, but the collectors that place has are nearly $200. I want to call great planes today to see if they can give me the opening size of their collector so I know what else I may need to get for that flange. I will probably get the bends there too. Then just get flanges somewhere else.
Also I forgot about you boost referencing the stock pump. I will have to go through your thread again.

[Chip Birks]

I used ebay for most of my flanges. All of the generic turbo and wastegate ones. As far as vw head flanges go, i bought them from RADesigns.com. I bought all in stainless except my Subaru ones. I'll get those later after this test is finished. I like the ebay flanges since most ship for free and the price is usually right. All of mine are 3/8" or 1/2" thick.

[buguy]

The VW ones I was looking at are 5/16" and sell for $15 for a set of 4. The place with cheap bends sells a VW flange for $5 each and are. 366 thick. I will need 8 of them I guess. I will check eBay for the turbo flanges.

[buguy]

Also I've been eyeballing Rad's blow through 2 and 4 barrel intakes. Very nice!

[buguy]

Ordered up my stuff today. In case anyone ever wonders the collector opening on the 1 3/8" primary one is 1 1/2". I was hoping it was more like 1 3/4" but I can live with 1 1/2". That is the collector at Great Planes.

[buguy]

Grrr! I've had a faulty alternator for a while now so I ordered one up yesterday. I figured I'd get mine pulled out tonight. I couldn't get it and the fan out, so I pulled the whole turbo system out only to find out it still won't come out. Apparently you have to pull the nut off the back of the fan and pull it that way. Double Grrrr! I even pulled all the nuts off the genny stand.

[Clonebug]

Nope... you either pull the shroud or you pull the nut off the back of the fan and then remove. Both ways are a PITA.........

[buguy]

Yeah it will extra suck since I have all the bolts out and the strap off. Oh well... I'm used to doing stuff the hard way.
My bends will be here Tuesday and I still haven't made up my mind how I want to build the header. I'm leaning towards making it like the A1/DRD style.

[Clonebug]

I pulled the alternator once by removing the fan bolt......that was before I had the coil mounted in front of the fan housing. It was a royal PITA but I did it without pulling the body. I might have pulled the body bolts and raised the back end up for more clearance but I can't remember. The hard part is keeping track of all the spacers.
In the end it was all a waste since the new alternator only lasted less than a year........I was NOT a happy camper.
The one I have now has been good for a few years now.

[buguy]

Well it took me literally hours to get the new alternator on. There are (supposed to be) little spacers in the front and back and I didn't know it. The new alternator didn't have them.When I was putting the fan on every time I tightened it down it would pull the back coller against the back of the alternator and of course wouldn't turn. I pulled it out of the shroud like 30 times, then decided to pull that back coller off, that's when I saw the lack of spacer back there. If I would have known about that it would be a piece of cake in a bug.
I tried to pull the shroud off while it was so far down so I could see if I could find my oil leak. Something in the back with the thermostat flappers was holding me up. I considered pulling the bolts holding the flappers on, but figured it wasn't worth it. I plan to pull the engine once I have the new header tacked up to do final welding. Then I will do the clutch, full weld the header, and find/fix my leak.
I hope my alternator lasts more than a year, but if not there is a lifetime warranty on it from my local parts store.

[buguy]

Oh yeah. I bought a $7 manual boost controller from eBay last night too. Will be interesting to see how it performs.

[buguy]

Uh oh. No more excuses. But wow! 1 3/8" OD (1.265" ID) tube is really small! 5/16" thick flanges are super fat though!! I misread it though, I thought it said 8.5" leg length and it was actually 8.5" length overall. I only bought 2 feet of straight tube so I hope it's enough length.