1600 turbo build thread

[buguy]

So since I boost referenced this carb I have to connect it to a vac/boost source. I have the boost gauge T'd into the waste gate line. Suppose it would be a bad idea to make that a 4 way connection? One vac source, one to the boost gauge, and one to the wastegate? All from the same source. I'm just wondering if that will drop the signal going to the wastegate?

[Clonebug]

It will be fine......

[buguy]

Good!

[buguy]

I might weld one or two nipples on the intake "T" when I pull it off to replace the clamps.

[buguy]

So I wanted to start getting recommendations. I need to get my engine pulled maybe next week or weekend after this weekends big show. I have some leaks to track down. I recently replaced the starter and it became apparent I put the 180mm clutch and fly wheel in it from the old 1200. So while I have it out I better get a 200mm and a stronger clutch. I haven't noticed any slippage yet but I haven't put maybe 20 miles on it since I got it back up and running.... I know it's coming though. I hope to be able to boost 12-15 psi, so I'm guessing 150ish hp. What would be my best bet to get for a clutch and pressure plate?

[andy198712]

i run a stage one Kennedy plate and the "super daiakin" (sp) disk and its worked fine and i'm at abut that power, its very streetable too

[Clonebug]

My Stage I and CB Super disk holds to just under 200 ft lbs torque at the wheels......depending on how fast you shift and if you let off much between shifts.
If I speed shift the clutch will heat up and slip and only gets worse the more shifts I do.

It is advertised to hold to 180 fts. torque with a stock disc but I don't know if that is crank or wheel torque.

[andy198712]

id say crank hp as wheel hp will vary car to car, its doing well to hold 200 wheel tq!

[buguy]

Ok great thanks.
So I have another question maybe everyone else already knows. I pulled my carb, intake, turbo, and intake Tee off last night so I can put my new clamps on. I was just looking at it and wondering if I could pull the alternator too and get the fan up out of there without pulling the engine since I'm already all apart? I have a leak somewhere on the top and I figured since it is only a couple bolts holding that fan on it might be just as easy to pull it off the top as it is to pull the engine out again.

[buguy]

Got the nipples put in the intake Tee. Probably run the boost gauge to one and the power valve to the other. The T-clamps I got didn't fit. He must have given me 2" ones. So I ran to the FLAPS and got the best clamps they stocked. I've used them before and they hold really well. I don't like them as much a T-clamps but it's almost Wednesday and the activities start Friday here. Got to get her back on the road.
It was interesting to see that I welded a 2" pipe to the 1.5" cross pipe. I think I probably made that around 2007 so I didn't remember what I did!

[buguy]

Grrrr! Put the engine back together and hooked the points to the wrong side of the coil. Always something right before a show!

[buguy]

Well I put some new points and condenser in. Seems like it has a bit of a weird stumble every 4th revolution or so, need to look at that further. Also I put a 50cc accelerator pump in it from another carb and it doesn't push it right. Hard to explain. But I think I need the pump arm from the 50cc one. Either that or I will put the 30cc pump back on. I need a huge pump shot right off idle for this to run correctly. It doesn't need it for a long shot. Just right off idle it needs to be huge.
Also I've been looking at rebuild kits for the turbo. Hardly makes sense though. An upgraded rebuild kit includes a 360 degree thrust bearing and the ring is an overlap style that would reduce oil seepage. Problem is they are $150. I could get 2 more of those turbos for that price.. So I might just look for another turbo.

[buguy]

Still having trouble just off idle while driving. When I'm driving easy like through my neighborhood, my accelerator pump doesn't work and it needs the extra fuel. I might try to put a smaller squirter on and see if that gives it any fuel when pushing the gas real easy. I have the pump arm set to almost zero lash so it should be as sensitive as possible. Also has a new diaphragm in there so I don't think it's anything wrong. I think it's just kind of how they are.

[buguy]

So I threw a size 32 squirter in there and that helped off idle. I had a size 40 in there that I drilled out the next size up drill so I'm guessing around a 43 or so. I think that is a bit too small because now it seems to be a bit lean just after the off idle pump shot. Been raining here for the last few days so I have to get out to drive when it stops. So I'm not 100% sure on the mains yet. I still have the 6v wiper motor in there and it nearly flings the wiper arms off if I try to run them!

[petew]

SBeen raining here for the last few days so I have to get out to drive when it stops. So I'm not 100% sure on the mains yet. I still have the 6v wiper motor in there and it nearly flings the wiper arms off if I try to run them!

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... e=C13-9344

Works well.